Dolpa rises in solitary grandeur from the northern extremity
of the sea of mountains in western Nepal and maintains a far more impressive
and commanding individuality than any other place within the limits of Nepal
having a region of free mountains where the peaks are laden with fresh snow,
and the wild Phoksundo Lake emerges as a sacred place among the followers of
Buddhism.
Finally, my friend John and I made it to one of the major
national parks of Nepal, Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa. It is one of
the iconic mountain parks in the world, situated at an elevation of 3660 m.
The travel story begins like this: during the last week of
the Nepali Calendar 2079 BS, my school friend John asked me to go trekking.
After agreeing on the destination, we decided to visit Shey Phoksundo National
Park, located in the remote wilderness of Dolpa. We met after 20-21 years, and
it was a whole new perspective to recall our school days. He is one of my great
friends who has traveled to most of the places in Nepal so far. He is an
environmentalist by education and cares for nature in so many ways.
We checked out the itinerary for the Shey Phoksundo Trail and found out that it can be completed in 5 or 6 days. We met on Friday, 2079/12/24, before we embarked on the trek to discuss supplies and other details. Unfortunately, we noticed that the ticket we had booked a few days ago was for a night bus, which was not what we wanted. In a hurry, we went to the counter to resolve the issue.
DAY 1
On a Saturday morning, we set off for Nepalgunj, a journey
that usually takes almost 14 hours from Kathmandu. Long-distance bus travel
requires patience, as 14 hours is no small feat. During our journey, we had a
great time reminiscing about our school days. I informed my friend John that I
had recently met some of our school friends at a wedding of our friend a few
months ago. We made stops at various points along the way for tea breaks and
meals.
Upon reaching Nepalgunj, we received assistance from the
driver of the Jumbo Hiace, and his friend took us to a newly built hotel called
New Sagarmatha Hotel and Lodge near Nepalgunj Airport. We chosed that hotel so
that we could catch a mountain flight to Dolpa the next morning. After our
conversation with the owner and a few
other people at the hotel, we learned that securing a flight was challenging as
most of the tickets had already been booked. This time of year, many people see
traveling to Dolpa, and there was currently only one flight available. We
discovered that booking should ideally be done a week or two in advance.
Exhausted from our dinner and the long hours in the Jumbo Hiace, we retired to
bed.
DAY 2
Early on Sunday morning, around 5:30 AM, the two of us,
accompanied by the hotel owner, headed to the airport in hopes of getting
tickets by chance. Unfortunately, we were unable to secure tickets as the
airplane was already filled with other supplies, such as meat, which apparently
generated more revenue than ticket sales. We even inquired about available
seats, but they informed us that there were none for that day. We did, however,
take the phone number of the helpful hotel owner and decided to proceed by bus.
He assisted us in booking bus tickets and even managed to secure a discount
using his name.
After acquiring our bus tickets to Tallo Bagar, we waited
for the bus to arrive. During this time, we enjoyed our first cup of tea in
Nepalgunj, which we savored on the side of the road. The tea was delicious with
a hint of masala. Having finished our tea, we waited a few more minutes until
the bus arrived. To our surprise, the hotel owner appeared on the highway with
four other individuals, including two young ladies and their parents. He
informed us that the two young ladies had missed their flight but were also
heading to Shey Phoksundo National Park. As I looked closely at the ladies, I
realized that one of them had been my student. I was astonished and couldn't
believe it! I exclaimed, 'Do you remember me?' to which she replied, 'Yes.'
Just as we exchanged these words, the bus arrived, and we all boarded,
commencing our journey to Tallo Bagar.
After a few minutes on the bus, we made a stop at Kohalpur Bus
Park to pick up additional passengers. Two other men joined us on the bus, and
we discovered that they, too, were traveling to Dolpa for the Shey Phoksundo
Trekking. We engaged in conversation with them for a few minutes before continuing
our journey. As the bus was waiting, the two of us decided to have another cup
of tea at a tea shop, but unfortunately, it turned out to be overly sweet for
my liking. Despite that, I consumed it all. With our tea break complete, the
bus resumed its journey towards our destination.
We made phone calls to our homes before the bus departed for
Surkhet. In order to reach Tallo Bagar in western Nepal, we had to pass through
Surkhet. During our journey, we encountered a checkpoint, which was part of
Bardia National Park. We spent about 15-20 minutes at the checkpoint before
continuing towards Surkhet. I had visited Surkhet a few years ago and recalled
that the highway was congested at various points in the mountains. However, on
this trip, the weather was perfect, allowing us to witness the Churia ranges,
formed by the collision of two tectonic plates. The mountain ranges adorned
with trees were a spectacular sight, a lush green blanket that made me ponder
how long it took for the land to become so fertile for the growth of trees and
bushes. It likely took millions of years, with nature flourishing in a balanced
manner throughout history. The view of the mountains covered in lush greenery
was awe-inspiring.
After approximately four hours, we arrived at Chhinchu,
Surkhet, and took another highway that led to Rukum West. We stopped for lunch
around 12:00 PM, although I couldn't recall the exact location. However, I do
remember that the Bheri River, with its turquoise color, flowed alongside the
highway. As we enjoy sampling the local cuisine of western Nepal, we dined at a
local shop that served organic food. In the meantime, we had the opportunity to
taste a bowl of fresh fish, caught from the Bheri River. It was incredibly
delicious, and the pickles accompanying the meal were unforgettable. The taste
was exceptional. Normally, I avoid consuming meat products while traveling, as
I struggle to digest them and sometimes they are not cooked properly. However,
savoring that delicately cooked fish was an absolute delight.
After our satisfying lunch, we decided to go near the Bheri
River to admire its turquoise beauty. Unfortunately, we heard the bus horn,
indicating that it was time to return. Nonetheless, the mesmerizing turquoise
color of the river left a lasting impression. Everyone falls in love with the
color of the Bheri River at first glance. With that captivating sight in our
hearts, we continued our journey to Tallo Bagar without any stops. As we peered
through the window, we observed the underprivileged state of western Nepal,
prompting the government to undertake numerous development projects to uplift
the villages in the region. One striking aspect we noticed was the remarkably
fresh air and the picturesque rural villages, making western Nepal a perfect
destination for travelers who are willing to dedicate time to explore the area.
To truly know western Nepal, its people, landscapes, and culture, one needs at
least a week or more. It offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
An interesting architectural feature we observed in the
houses was the absence of stairs. Instead, they constructed makeshift
staircases using tree branches, positioning them at a slant in relation to the
entrance of their homes on the first floor. In some houses, the stairs were
located on the exterior of the building. This unique tradition or cultural
practice of building staircases from tree branches was truly remarkable.
Another intriguing aspect we noticed was the unique
architecture of the houses. The ground floor was typically designated for
domestic animals, while people reside on the second and third floors. What
caught our attention was the fact that the locals do not speak Nepali but
rather their own distinct language, which was quite different. During our
journey, we made stops for tea breaks, which were essential moments to make
phone calls home and also offered panoramic views of the surroundings. All we
could see were majestic mountains stretching as far as the eye could see. After
approximately 12 hours, we finally arrived at Tallo Bagar. It was already dark,
and due to the absence of electricity, we couldn't see anything at all. The
houses were illuminated by solar-powered inverter lights. The driver instructed
us to stay in a homestay where he was also staying. Although the accommodations
were not what we had expected, being open to new experiences, we simply needed
a good night's sleep. We placed our backpacks in the room on the first floor,
although navigating the house with its unconventional staircase was a bit
challenging in the absence of light. In total, there were six of us comprising
the Shey Phoksundo National Park group. John and I had encountered four other
trekkers along the way. The girls stayed in the adjacent room while the
four of us shared one room.
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Later, I stepped out of the room to wash my hands, face, and
legs, as there was no designated shower area. It was then that I struck up a
conversation with the two men we had met on the bus in Kohalpur. Curiosity
prompted me to ask, "Where are you from?" One of them hailed from
Thamel, while the other was from Nepalgunj. They shared their previous trekking
experiences, including Thorang La Pass, the Annapurna Circuit Trail, and Badi
Malika which are renowned for their outdoor adventures in Nepal. As our
conversation unfolded, one of them mentioned the name of their colleague who
frequently treks across the country. Coincidentally, he mentioned the name of
my close friend, whom I often go hiking with. I couldn't believe it—how had such
a connection been made? That unexpected encounter made us realize that the
world is indeed small, and everyone is somehow interconnected. I excitedly
shared that unbelievable coincidence with my friend, John. Not only had we met
two ladies, one of whom was my former student, but we also encountered two men
who were friends of my friend. After enjoying our dinner, we retired for the
night.
DAY 3
On the third day of our journey, we woke up early in the
morning, packed our backpacks, and prepared for another 6-7 hours of off-road
adventure. During our bus ride from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, we had met a lady
who gave us the phone number of her brother, who drives a jeep from Tallo Bagar
to Dunai. We called that number in the morning, and he came to pick us up at
Tallo Bagar. Initially, we considered reserving the entire jeep, but it was
expensive, so we opted to pay per person. Around 7:00 AM, we set off for
Suligad, the starting point of the Shey Phoksundo Trek.
The newly constructed road provided a thrilling off-road
experience, but it also posed risks to our lives. The road hugged the river
corridor, making it perilous. However, that route offered us a vivid glimpse of
western Nepal. The villages exuded a rustic charm, and we hoped that the
condition of the road would improve in the coming years. After a few hours of
jeep ride, we made a stop to witness Silajit, a naturally occurring ayurvedic
medicine found in the mountains. It is formed between two large rocks and oozes
out as a black semi-liquid when they press against each other. Silajit
possesses unique properties—it is malleable and ductile, allowing it to be
shaped into thin sheets or threads. When snapped, it breaks into pieces.
Another interesting fact about Silajit is that adding a small pinch of it turns
milk completely black. Silajit holds many medicinal significances, such as
enhancing sexual power and alleviating body pain.
The driver shared his knowledge about Yarshagumba, another
valuable medicinal herb. It is one of the most expensive herbs in the world,
and people from Dolpa and other regions venture into the Himalayas during the
monsoon season to collect it. Once the permit is granted, entire families,
including children above 14-16 years old, leave their homes to gather
Yarshagumba. For many, it has become their source of income, with some earning
up to 5-6 lakhs in one season, while others return empty-handed. The driver
also mentioned the unfortunate reality that people die from altitude sickness
while searching for Yarshagumba in the mountains. During our conversation, the
driver's phone rang—it was a call from a tea house informing him that lunch was
ready. He suggested that we try the fish caught that morning from the river,
and we agreed. We reached Khadang, Tripurasundari, where we enjoyed a lunch
consisting of fish and local vegetables. Without wasting time, we continued our
journey towards Suligad, as we still had to hike for about 5 hours to reach Chhepka,
our first camping spot. As a final stop, we took a tea break in Tripurasundari,
a small valley surrounded by mountains. It resembled a small marketplace where
locals come to purchase their household goods. At the top of the mountain stood
the Tripurasundari Temple, and the driver suggested us to visit the temple,
assuring us that it would only take 45 minutes to reach. However, we decided it
would be better to proceed to Suligad, where we had to embark on a 5-hour hike
to reach Chhepka. Finally, around 2:00 PM, we arrived at the Suligad
checkpoint.
After paying the driver and thanking him for his assistance,
we began our hike from Suligad to Chhepka around 2:15 PM. Before starting, I
made a phone call to my brother to let him know that we had safely arrived in
Suligad and were about to begin the 5-hour hike to Chhepka. Suligad is the
place where two rivers converge to form a larger river. I wasn't certain about
the local names of the rivers, but one might be Mathlo Bheri, while the other
could be the Shey Phoksundo River. Suligad is named after the Nepal Army, which
oversees the Shey Phoksundo National Park. We crossed a suspension bridge and
continued on the trail towards Chhepka. Running out of water, we refilled our
bottles from the Shey Phoksundo River and added a few drops of chlorine to
purify it. Four of our trail friends had already advanced ahead. After a few
minutes, we reached the Shey Phoksundo National Park office, where we obtained
permits for Rs 100 each. For Nepalese citizens, the fee is only Rs 100, but for
visitors from other countries, the price would be higher. We then proceeded up
the trail and soon caught up with our waiting trail friends. Together, we
continued our hike, observing our surroundings along the way.
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We stopped for a tea break at one of the tea houses, where a
young lady, who appeared to be around 19-20 years old, served us exquisite
Masala tea popularly known as Muna Chiya among the locals. It was sad to think
that at such a young age, she was already married and responsible for her
family. We noticed that child marriage is prevalent in western Nepal, where
young boys and girls aged 14-16 often run away. Unfortunately, they often have
limited understanding of love and attraction. They may run away with one person
initially and later run away with someone else when they reach adolescence.
After our tea break, we continued our ascent. Gradually, I
started feeling pain in my left leg, but I pushed through without letting it
hinder my progress. After walking for another couple of hours or so, the pain
became intolerable, and I fell behind on the trail. However, with the support
of John and our trail friends, I managed to keep going. After a strenuous
5-hour walk, we finally arrived at Chhepka around 7:00 PM. It was already dark,
and unfortunately, there was no electricity available. With our phones about to
die, we searched for tea houses where we could charge them. However, as the
first tea house which had no lights and the second one we found, had
solar-powered lights, but do not charge our phones, we decided to stay at the
second tea house anyway since it had lights.
Due to the pain in my leg, I opted to rest while John and
the others settled in. We gathered in the dining room, where a fire provided
warmth. I sat near the fire, trying to alleviate the discomfort in my leg. We
had tea, hot water, and engaged in conversations with fellow trekkers. I grew
increasingly sleepy and almost fell asleep in the dining room. After about an
hour of discussion, we had dinner and made phone calls to our families using
the landline phone since there was no mobile network. Each call cost Rs 100,
but despite the expense, we wanted to connect with our loved ones. That night,
we had the opportunity to taste yak meat, as the tea house owner recommended
it. The meat had a unique flavor. After the meal, we spent some time in the
dining room, discussing our plans for the next day's hike. The owner's wife and
the young lady at the tea house were kind enough to provide us with detailed
information about the trails ahead. Their guidance and insights were valuable
for our trekking plans. Before retiring for the night, I applied a pain
reliever to my leg to alleviate the discomfort. Exhausted from the day's hike,
I quickly fell into a deep and restful sleep, ready to continue our trek the
next day.
DAY 4
On Monday morning, we woke up bright and early at 6:00 AM. I
carefully checked my leg to assess if I could walk without much pain.
Unfortunately, as I descended the stairs, I still felt discomfort in my knee.
It seemed like a knee problem specifically while walking downhill. I remained
hopeful that with some rest and time, it would improve within a day or two.
After completing our morning routines, we enjoyed a
refreshing cup of tea along with some cookies. We decided not to have breakfast
at the tea house since we had brought our own food supplies in our backpacks.
Before setting off on our trek, we made phone calls to our loved ones back home
using the landline phone at the tea house. Once the bills were settled, we
embarked on our journey towards Rinche, which was approximately a 4-hour hike
from Chhepka.
As we continued our hike, our lady trail friends, my student and her friend, had already departed a few minutes earlier and were
now out of sight, deep into the trail. Two of our other trail companions also
moved ahead, leaving John and me behind. John took his time to capture some
photographs of the breathtaking surroundings while I continued walking. I
noticed that our lady friends had mistakenly taken a different route, as I
could see them lower down the mountain. I called out to them and directed them
to take our trail. Even John had unintentionally taken the wrong path.
Eventually, all three of them managed to find the correct trail, and John
joined me once again. The trail itself offered a unique and unforgettable
experience. It was a journey of getting lost and then finding our way back,
adding to the adventure.
As we descended further along the trail, the Shey Phoksundo
river flowed gracefully, displaying its mesmerizing turquoise color. Every
aspect of the environment felt surreal to us. Along the way, we encountered a
Buddhist stupa dedicated to Thinley, a Nepali actor who played a significant
role in the French movie "Caravan." The film depicted the trade
relationship between Dolpa in Nepal and Tibet. It showcased the Sherpas of
Dolpa undertaking perilous journeys along narrow paths in the Himalayas to
exchange goods such as barley, wheat, and other supplies for Himalayan salt. "Caravan" was an exceptional movie that shed light
on the challenges and beauty of the region. John and I took a photo next to the
Thinley Stupa, which had a signboard mentioning that Thinley had tragically
died falling from a cliff with his horse. Undeterred by the challenges, we
continued our hike, eager to explore more of the trail ahead.
After crossing one of the wooden bridges, we reached the
other side of the mountain, where a steep trail was carved along the edge of
the mountain. As we continued, we encountered a large rock about 20-30 feet
high, which served as a shelter for Sherpas. We took some photos and continued
on our way. Soon, we came across another bridge. Given my difficulty in
walking, John didn't leave me behind. The pain in my leg was becoming
unbearable, but I managed to proceed slowly and cautiously. During our hike, we encountered a few Sherpas accompanied by
their donkeys. They asked us if we had seen a donkey along the way. Although we
weren't entirely certain, we replied, "We saw one not too far ahead."
They expressed their gratitude and continued on their journey. As we progressed further, we encountered a steep trail in
the alpine zone. Walking downhill became a significant challenge for me, and I
struggled to navigate the trail. John moved ahead, while I fell behind. I took
a brief pause, allowing donkeys and local people who were coming from behind to
pass by before I resumed my slow descent.
After taking a rest and receiving some physiotherapy from
our trail friend, I felt slightly better. He guided me to lie down and close my
eyes, instructing me to take slow breaths. Following his guidance, I took a few
minutes to rest. To replenish my energy, I mixed an electrolyte packet with
water and drank it. I shared half of the electrolyte with my trail friend, who
also had a mild leg pain. We hoped that the electrolyte water would help
restore balance to our bodies.
Despite waiting for our lady friends for a while, they
didn't appear, so the four of us decided to continue walking up the trail,
expecting to meet them along the way. John and other two trail friends kindly didn't leave me behind, and
we proceeded together. Eventually, we encountered a fork in the road and chosed the straight path, disregarding the one that led to a small village across a
wooden bridge down the river. On the other side of the mountain, we could only
spot a few stone houses. Anticipating another bridge ahead, we crossed a
suspension bridge and noticed a trail marker indicating that we had finally
arrived at Rinche, where we had planned to have our meal in the morning. We
crossed the bridge and entered one of the tea houses, which resembled a hut.
(It's worth noting that John lost his walking stick while crossing the bridge.)
Upon reaching Rinche, it was 11:00 AM, and we approached the lady owner of a
tea house, requesting her to prepare a meal for the six of us. We mentioned
that our two lady friends would be joining us shortly. The owner informed us
that it would take about 30 minutes to prepare the meal, to which we replied,
"That's okay, we can wait." She kindly served us hot water while she
began cooking. Spotting a landline phone, we took the opportunity to make phone
calls to our homes. Afterwards, we asked the owner to charge our phones.
Unfortunately, my phone had already switched off earlier in the morning,
causing me to miss capturing many beautiful sceneries along the trail. However,
I managed to take photos and videos using my old phone.
After enjoying the hot water, we stepped out of the hut and
basked in the sunlight for a while. While sunbathing, our lady friends arrived.
We invited them to join us for the meal, and one of them handed me a pain
reliever pad. Grateful for the gesture, I immediately applied it to my leg,
expressing my thanks and expressing hope that my leg would feel better soon. The four of us proceeded to have our meal together. Before
leaving, one of our lady friends asked for my phone number, revealing that they
had been lost in the forest previously. I shared my number with her, assuring
them that if anything happened, they could call me at that number. Since their
food wasn't ready yet, we couldn't wait for them and departed for Ringmo, which
was approximately 4 hours away from Rinche.
Despite the pain in my leg, we continued walking slowly.
Along the trail, we encountered a few Sherpas and exchanged greetings with them
by saying Namaste. We passed by a school and arrived at another fork in the
road. Mistakenly, we chosed the straight path that led to a different village,
but we kept walking regardless. Eventually, we realized that it wasn't the
correct trail to Ringmo. Regrettably, my phone had no charge, so I couldn't
rely on it for navigation. None of my friends had an offline map either. We
decided to take a brief rest on the side of the trail, lying down under the
shade of pine trees and appreciating the natural surroundings. After a few
minutes, we resumed our hike.
Knowing that we had taken the wrong trail, we speculated
that the actual path to Ringmo might be long and demanding. Passing by a stone
Buddhist stupa on the mountainside, we reached a small village where there were
a few houses and a newly constructed tea house. We approached the people
working in the house and asked them to guide us towards Ringmo. We then took
another break, requesting the owner of the house to prepare tea for us. While
waiting for the tea, we kept an eye on the trail behind us, hoping to spot our
lady friends. However, they hadn't caught up with us yet. Eventually, our tea
arrived, and the generous locals even shared some Himalayan boiled potatoes
with us. The combination of the potatoes, chili, and salt was incredibly
delicious. After paying the bills, we followed the path shown to us. Given the
pain in my leg, I struggled to climb the steep trail, which proved to be one of
the most challenging sections of the day. I had to take multiple breaks along
the way. When we reached the middle of the steep trail, which appeared to be
about 1000 feet high and covered in bushes and pine trees, we initially took a
path that led to dead ends. After descending a few meters, we realized our
mistake and corrected our course by taking the right path.
Feeling depleted of energy, we decided to have our snacks
right in the middle of the cliff. It turned out to be one of the most memorable
snack breaks of our trek. There are certain experiences on the trail that
remain etched in our memories forever. Despite the strong gusts of wind blowing
at high speeds, we protected our heads and ears with caps and continued
enjoying our food as if it were our last meal. In the meantime, we kept looking
back on the trail, hoping to spot our lady friends.
Once we finished our snacks, we resumed our slow ascent.
Upon reaching the top of the mountain, we felt a surge of happiness knowing
that we wouldn't have to climb any further. The breathtaking views from the
mountaintop offered a panorama of layered mountains, and we took some pictures
to capture the moment. As we walked, we had hoped to catch a glimpse of Shey
Phoksundo Lake together, so we sang our National Anthem and continued walking
side by side. However, our view of the lake was obstructed by the pine-speckled
mountain. Undeterred, we continued along the trail.
As darkness began to set in, we picked up our pace with the
aim of reaching Ringmo. One of our friends, who also experienced leg pain, fell
behind on the trail. We decided to wait for him on the suspension bridge that
connected Ringmo on the other side of the mountain. While waiting, we
encountered a young local boy on the bridge who recommended a tea house in
Ringmo that had all the amenities we desired, including lights, WiFi, and cozy
bedrooms. After a phone call, the owner of the tea house came to the
suspension bridge to guide us to the tea house. John went ahead with the owner,
while the two of us waited for our friend who was lagging behind. Eventually,
we all made it to the tea house. Upon arrival, we immediately plugged in our
phones to charge. We then proceeded to clean up and freshen up before gathering
in the dining room, where we enjoyed hot water and yak tea.
While in the dining room, we made phone calls to our
families, informing them that we had safely reached Ringmo and planned to
explore the lake and viewpoints the next morning. As we were engrossed in
conversation, my phone suddenly rang—it was our lady friends. They had also
arrived in Ringmo and informed us that they were camping near the lakeside
teahouse. We proceeded to have our dinner and spent about an hour in
the dining room, engaging in lively discussions about snow leopards. Since
Dolpa is known as the land of snow leopards, it had always been one of my
wildest dreams to set foot in Dolpa. The conversation became even more
captivating when we discovered that the owner of the tea house had worked as a
volunteer in a snow leopard conservation program.Feeling exhausted from the
10-12 hours of hiking in the Himalayas, we finally decided to call it a night
and went to bed.
DAY 5
As the morning sun cast its light on the Himalayas, I peered
out of my window and felt the cold breeze blowing. Knowing that venturing
outside in such weather wouldn't be ideal; I packed my backpack and headed to
the dining room for some hot water. Returning to my room, I enjoyed some
cookies along with the warm water. Meanwhile, John and my two other friends
also prepared themselves for the hike. The lake was just a few minutes away
from our campsite, so we decided not to carry water bottles or snacks.
Considering my leg pain, I only took my trekking stick for support. The four of
us set off towards the lake, but after a few minutes of walking, my pain
intensified, causing me great concern. I silently questioned how I would manage
to make it back to Chhepka later that day. Despite the pain, I persevered and
continued walking.
Eventually, we reached the magnificent lake, surrounded by
breathtaking scenery. We looked around for a way to reach the shore. Other fellow trekkers advised us to hike to
the viewpoint for a magnificent panoramic view of the lake. Without wasting any
time, we followed the path along the cliff's edge. As we walked, it felt like
we were in a heavenly realm, experiencing some of the most memorable moments of
our lives. The alpine zone boasted rugged, wind-sculpted dwarf pines,
resembling nature's own bonsai trees. We tasted the beauty of one of the
world's most heavenly places for the first time.
Reaching the viewpoint, known as Phoksundo Height I, was
quite challenging, and my friends contemplated turning back. However, I
encouraged them not to give up on our journey. I assured them that we would
definitely make it, no matter what. I even suggested going further to Phoksundo
Height II. After 2.5 hours of walking,
we finally reached Phoksundo Height I. Overwhelmed with joy, we embraced each
other and savored the best moments of our trek. From that vantage point, we
could see the other end of the lake as well. Due to the pain in my leg, I took
some time to rest and then captured some of the most stunning pictures I could
frame. The sunlight passing through the lake transformed its color into a
mesmerizing turquoise blue, one of the most exquisite hues. Since there were
other trekkers already present, we shared our excitement and joy with them.
After bidding farewell to the trekkers who were heading to Rara Lake, the largest
lake in the Himalayas of Nepal, we continued to savor the incredible views from
the viewpoint. We spent some time in silence, appreciating the majestic
surroundings. After about 30 to 45 minutes, we decided to descend from
Phoksundo Height I since we hadn't brought any water or food with us.
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| © One of Our Trail Friends |
As we started descending the trail, my pain became
increasingly intense, reaching a point where it was unbearable. John and our
other friend walked ahead, while I and my remaining friend proceeded slowly.
Eventually, we all reconvened and enjoyed our time by the lake's shore. The
water was frigid, and we could only tolerate a few seconds in it. We then made
our way back to the tea house where we planned to have lunch.
On our return, we encountered our lady friends who were
heading towards the lake’s shore. I warned them about the strong winds in the
mountains and suggested they exercise caution. They informed us that they had
decided to stay in Ringmo for another night. I wished them good luck and told
them to enjoy their time. We continued our journey back to the tea house,
reluctantly leaving behind the ancient monastery that was over 800 years old
and situated on the other side of the lake.
After enjoying our lunch and settling the bills, the four of
us embarked on the mountain trail, which involved climbing uphill on a newly
constructed path. Along the way, I couldn't help but be captivated by the
breathtaking surroundings of Ringmo, with its Himalayan backdrop and the
glistening blue waters of Shey Phoksundo Lake. Taking one last look, I bid
farewell to Shey Phoksundo.
As we continued our walk, I started experiencing a mild
headache, likely due to the altitude and the gusts of wind we encountered. We
reached an elevation of 3,900 meters before beginning our descent. Coming
downhill proved to be quite challenging for me, but I persevered, supported by
my trail friend who faced similar difficulties. We took intermittent rests at
various points, while John and our other friend patiently waited for us, never
leaving us behind.
Once we descended the steep mountainside, we continued along
the trail. Eventually, we arrived at a suspension bridge, which we crossed,
leading us to a nearby tea house. We took a well-deserved rest and enjoyed a
tea break, accompanied by delicious hot boiled potatoes sprinkled with salt
again. Soon, a group of children arrived at the tea house, and I happily shared
some chocolate bars from my backpack, urging them to distribute them among
their friends. I always find joy in sharing whatever I have with children or
fellow trekkers.
After our tea break, we resumed our journey, maintaining a
slow yet steady pace, with the goal of reaching Chhepka before nightfall.
Following the trail along the riverside and through the forest, we eventually
reached Rinche, where we had enjoyed our lunch the previous day. John and our
other friend had been waiting for the two of us there for about 15 to 20
minutes, displaying their unwavering companionship and support. After reaching Chhepka, I took out a bag of
beaten rice from my backpack and handed it to the lady owner, relieving myself
of some weight. We bid her farewell, filled our water bottles, and set off once
again, this time traversing the forest trail. The alpine forest was untamed and
wild, and we were conscious of the need to reach Chhepka before it got too
late. As we made our way through the forest trail, darkness began
to descend. However, we remained united as a group, sticking together. Under
the starry night sky, we pressed on, with me leading the way using our
headlights to navigate. We picked up our pace, eager to reach our destination.
At one point in the forest, we encountered an unexpected
sight—a black-colored yak appeared seemingly out of nowhere. Its shadow cast a
formidable figure, making us feel a surge of fear. With heightened patience and
vigilance, we continued our journey, braving the encounter.
Finally, around 8:30 pm, we arrived at Chhepka. Exhausted
but relieved, we sought out the same tea house where we had previously stayed.
Unfortunately, the cozy and pleasant room we had enjoyed before was already
occupied by other trekkers heading towards Shey Phoksundo Lake. Instead, we
were allocated another house owned by the same owner. However, that particular
room had no lights whatsoever. Since all we desired was a good night's sleep,
we decided to make do with the dimly lit accommodation. After settling in our
room, changing clothes, and freshening up, we made our way to the neighboring
house where the dining room was located. We grabbed some water and began
discussing our trekking experiences. There were other trekkers present, who
appeared older than us, and they were curious to know about the trails. I
assured them that if they could manage to reach Rinche, they would find it
relatively easier to continue on to Shey Phoksundo. I explained that the
challenging part would be the approximately 4-hour non-stop walk to Rinche.
Our conversation then veered into various topics, including
Silajit, Yarshagumba (Caterpillar fungus), snow leopards, and mad honey. We
inquired with the tea house owner if they had mad honey available for purchase,
but unfortunately, they didn't have it, citing both its scarcity and high cost.
However, we managed to acquire a few grams of Silajit from the owner, as John
decided to buy it for Rs 500. I personally decided not to purchase any. Following our dinner, we retired for the night, occasionally
making phone calls to our loved ones in between our discussions.
DAY 6
In the morning, we woke up promptly at 6:30 AM with the
intention of reaching Juphal Airport, Dolpa on time. Without wasting any time,
we skipped breakfast and embarked on a long walk to Suligad, the starting point
of Shey Phoksundo National Park. Initially, my leg pain had subsided as we left
the tea house, but the ups and downs of the trail caused it to resurface, along
with my trail friend experiencing the same discomfort. We fell behind on the
trail, struggling to keep up with the others.
After walking for about 2 and half hours, we decided to stop
by Shey Phoksundo River for a shower. Despite the water being incredibly cold,
my trail friend and I rinsed our heads, while John took a dive into the river.
Feeling refreshed, we resumed our journey along the trail. However, the two of
us continued to struggle with walking. Around 11:30 AM, we took a tea break at
the same tea house we had visited before heading to Chhepka. There were
children around us, and my trail friend kindly shared biscuits with them.
Unfortunately, I had run out of chocolates, but I would have loved to share
them to bring a smile to their faces. The children appeared thin and were
living a challenging life in such a remote place.
After paying the bill and leaving a tip, we continued
walking for about an hour before stopping at a tea house for lunch. We noticed
that the phone network had started working, so I made a phone call to my home.
Meanwhile, John attempted to contact the owner of New Sagarmatha Hotel and
Lodge to book flight tickets for us. Finally, he managed to make the call and
provided our names, although we were aware that it wasn't certain as we hadn't
paid for the tickets yet. We knew we had to reach Juphal Airport as quickly as
possible. Following our lunch, we resumed our walk back to the Suligad
Checkpoint.
After reaching Suligad at 2:35 PM, we had initially planned
to find a jeep to take us to Juphal Airport. John made numerous phone calls to
the jeep driver whose number was given to us by the tea house owner where we
had lunch, but unfortunately, the driver didn't answer the calls. We even
sought assistance from the checkpoint armies, as we didn't want to be stranded
there. Eventually, we decided to change our plan and walk to Dunai, the capital
city of Dolpa, on foot.
Around an hour or so later, at 4:00 PM, we reached Dunai.
Since we couldn't find a jeep to Juphal, we explored the area, which was a
small village located near the river with narrow roads in the market area.
After waiting for about half an hour, we stopped at a tea shop to have tea.
Surprisingly, a jeep arrived, and to our surprise, the driver was the same
person whom John had been trying to reach on the phone. He joined us for tea,
and we departed for Juphal.
By the time we reached Juphal, it was already 5:30 PM, and
the Airport office was closed. We decided to stay at a nearby hotel that had
different domestic airline counters, hoping to purchase tickets in the morning.
We discovered that there were three remaining seats on the airplane, but we
weren't entirely certain. This uncertainty caused us stress, and we made several
phone calls to different people to ensure that we could secure tickets for all
four of us.
In the late evening, we visited the sister of one of our
trail friends, who lived near the airport. We even had a conversation with the
Airport Incharge while having a meal, asking for four seats if available.
However, he informed us that there were only three seats left, and if any
passenger didn't show up, they would give the seat to us. We were stressed
because the available three seats could potentially create a dilemma among us.
We were four individuals, but there were only three seats available. It was a
challenging situation to navigate. After dinner, we discussed the ticket situation, but
unfortunately, we couldn't reach a conclusion. The uncertainty and stress
loomed over us as we prepared for the night.
DAY 7
On the New Year's Day, John and I woke up early and went
about our morning routines. We packed our backpacks, aware that the flights to
Kathmandu only operate in the morning due to high-velocity winds. In a rush, we
made our way to the main entrance of the airport, where I noticed a man who was
making a list of passengers. I approached him to inquire about available seats,
and he confirmed that there were three seats remaining. I quickly provided our
names and requested to include the names of my two trail friends who arrived
slightly later. However, as all the passengers arrived, it turned out that
there was no available seat for one of our trail friends. In the end, he had to
stay behind for a day, creating an awkward situation where we couldn't even
exchange greetings of "Happy New Year 2080" with him.
At 7:15 AM, the three of us boarded the flight to Nepalgunj.
Upon arriving, we booked tickets for our onward journey to Kathmandu and then
stopped at a tea shop to have a cup of tea. Since one of our trail friends
lived in Nepalgunj, we asked him to explore the city. After enjoying our tea,
he bid us farewell and headed home, instructing us to meet him later at the
Bageshwori Temple Gate.
We made our way to the hotel where we had previously stayed
upon arriving in Nepalgunj. After checking in and freshening up, we had another
cup of tea. It was still early for lunch, so we decided to explore Nepalgunj
first. John and I left the hotel and took an electric Tempo to reach the
Bageshwori Temple Gate, which was a few kilometers away. We waited there for
our friend, and when he arrived, we explored different areas of Nepalgunj
together. We visited various temples and also explored the Muslim neighborhood
of the city. Eventually, we bid our friend farewell, wishing each other a Happy
New Year, and made our way back to the hotel.
After having lunch, we headed to the airport for our flight
to Kathmandu. However, our flight was delayed, and we ended up being stranded
at the airport for about an hour. Eventually, we boarded the flight and made
our way to Kathmandu, concluding our adventurous journey.
Upon arriving in Kathmandu, we opted to take a local bus for
our onward journeys. John headed to his home, and we exchanged blessings,
promising to stay in touch. I then waited for my brother, who came to pick me
up from Satdobato. Finally, after seven days of wilderness and adventure, I
arrived home. It was a comforting feeling to be back in familiar surroundings.
Summary
Our travel took us on a captivating journey
through the beautiful landscapes of western Nepal. From the moment we set off
on the trek, we were immersed in the awe-inspiring scenery, the challenges
of the trail, and the camaraderie among our group. We were astonished by the stunning
Shey Phoksundo Lake and its surroundings with vivid detail, painting a picture
of a true natural wonder. Our determination to reach the viewpoints, despite
physical pain, showcased our adventurous spirit and unwavering commitment to
experiencing the best of the trek. The difficulties we
encountered, such as the pain in our leg, the uncertainty of transportation,
and the stress of securing airplane tickets, added a sense of realism and
challenge to the adventure. Despite those obstacles, our determination and
resilience shone through as we pressed on to find solutions.
The story concluded with a mix of emotions as one of our
trail friends was unable to secure a seat on the flight, leading to a somewhat
strained farewell. However, the journey ended on a positive note as we reunited with our families, reflecting on the transformative experience we'd had.
Overall, our story beautifully captures the essence of
trekking in the Himalayas, highlighting the breathtaking scenery, the bonds
formed with fellow trekkers, and the personal growth that comes from pushing
beyond our limits. It's a tale of adventure, resilience, and the beauty of
nature that leaves all inspired to embark on their own journey.
BONUS PHOTOS OF THE SPT
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| © One of Our Trail Friends |
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| © One of Trail Friends |
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| © John |
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| © One of our Trail Friends |
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| © One of Our Trail Friends |
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| © One of The Trekkers |
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