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Wednesday, November 24, 2021

Radar Station Hike, Acclimatization Hike

The sustained grandeur of the Kathmandu valley is strikingly illustrated by the surrounding lush hills and mountains. However, one big question mark comes in our mind whenever we hike these mountainsides that can we keep these lushness of the valley for our children, for another century?



Great thoughts are conceived when we walk in the wilderness. With countless thoughts on my mind, I did a solo hike around the southern mountains of the valley dated October 30, 2021. Radar station hike could be acclimatization hike for those who wants to hike upper elevation i.e. above 2300 m above the sea level. If you hike this place more than once, you could acclimatize above elevation for a month or two.



With good walking pace, I started my hike at 11 O'clock, from my house, Chapagaun and took the same native trails that lead to the Charghare where suspension bridge joins two villages. After crossing the bridge, I took the narrow forest way that goes to the Tikabhairav. I always admire this forest path since childhood. As far as I know, this path was made more than 500 years ago. It was a portal for a trade between remote villages of southern Lalitpur with Kathmandu valley. Now, with construction of motorway up the mountain, this path is less walk by and wilderness thrives here. 



Then after 7-10 mins of trail run through wild forest, I reached Tikabhairav. This place is so much polluted. It doesn't have good air quality. With ongoing rock extraction, this place has lost its true color even the river in which once used to flow crystal clear water has become polluted. The construction of motorway on the bank of the river is one of the reasons for the pollution of the river and responsible for the extinction of many species of fish.



Then I walked uphill to reach the Radar Station which is made on the top of the mountain, 2300 m elevation from sea level. To reach the top of the mountain, we actually have to pass Kote Danda and Tinpane Bhanjyang. After walking non stop for almost an hour from Tikabhairav, I reached Tinpane Bhanjyang. I actually used shortcut way to reach Tinpane. 

Kote Danda is a small village on the lap of foothills from where you see an emperor's view of the valley and the Himalayan ranges on a clear day. It's famous for "Lapsi", a fruit also known as hog plum which is native to Nepal. Well, I saw many of these plants on the way. But, the fruits are not ripened yet and I didn't eat. Actually, it tastes so good when you eat it. The salivary glands produce so much saliva when you taste it. It helps in digestion of foods as well as in fat burn. 




As I walked uphill, I felt very cold with thin air. And then I had to wear my jacket. When I reached Tinpane, it was already 2:00 pm. I realized that, to come here on foot, it takes 3 hrs. Without wasting my time at Tinpane, I walked another 30 mins uphill to reach the top of the mountain. 


I didn't see anyone hiking this place. But, it's packed with people at times when it snows. Few years back, it had massive snowfall.
When I reached the top, I enjoyed sight seeing. Unbelievable, the station offers magnificent 360 degree view. Himalayan ranges like Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Dorje Lakpa I, II, Gaurisankar, Himalchuli can be seen from different perspective. 


Unfortunately, this time, my phone lost all the battery charges and got switched off. I couldn't able to capture all the sceneries that the mountain offers. However, I captured few images and the videos from the other phone. Hopefully, I will go back next time with full preparation. Anyway, the hike was worthwhile in so many ways. 




After sight seeing, I had my snacks under the alpine tree. The top of the mountain has different species of alpine trees. It was so quiet that I had to finish my snacks as fast as possible. The wilderness is so much challenging. I didn't want to see any wild animals at that time. 






As soon as I finished my snack, I did trail run to come down the mountain. I thought running would be better to come down. It took me around 8 mins to come down. Why I did trail run? It's because, the forest which the big chunk of mountain has, is so wild. It changes its weather within mins. Anytime, daytime fog engulfs the mountain which arises fear in our mind. Secondly, it has cemetery in the middle of the mountain which even more pumps our heartbeat so fast when we pass it alone.

Then, when I reached down at Tinpane, I walked non stop for almost 1 and half to reach Charghare where my brother was waiting with his motorbike to take me home. I didn't have any leg problem on this hike, not even headache or any physical problem. Despite having good photos and videos, I enjoyed a lot in the mountains. Southern hills and mountains of the valley is strikingly stunning for day hike. I admire if my friends go for hike. The hike would be so much inspiring. But, do not throw your trashes in the mountains which I never do. I take my trashes back home. 

To sum it up, I take every hike as one of the ecotherapies, a range of nature based activity that can help our physical and mental well-being in so many ways. It gives me structure, makes me utilise the daylight and get out of bed. It gives me something outside of myself to nurture and look after and that helps me to better look after myself.





 















Friday, September 10, 2021

Dhunche Hike

Among the many unlooked-for treasures that are bound up and hidden away in the depths of Kathmandu valley solitudes, none more surely charm and surprise all kinds of travelers. The forests and the mountains and the wandering streams advertise their wealth in a more or less telling manner even in the distance, but nothing is seen of the valley until we have traversed them. 

It all started with a request. A friend of mine, Nirpesh requested for a hike around western mountains. Undeniably, I said yes to his request. Back in days, we did several hikes and travels together. Due to the travel restrictions, we felt stagnated at home. To escape from our daily routine, we went on a day hike around western mountains of the valley. And, we successfully completed "Dhunche Hike" together. The trial is popularly known as Champadevi Trial. 


With little group chat, we finalized our hike. Unfortunately, a friend couldn't make it because of his dentist's appointment. Then, we (Nirpesh, Eliza and her friend) decided to go to make our day. 



Four of us went on our motorbike and scooter to Taudaha, one of the biggest lakes around the valley. Then we took another way that leads to Champa Devi Temple, situated on the lap of huge mountain. We parked our motorbikes on the side of the road and headed west up the mountain. 


With so much determination and excitement, we walked uphill. While going up, we were already astonished by the view. The view of the valley looks spectacular from there. The concrete valley is no longer the same as it was before. All the arable land and open spaces of the valley are turning into a housing and corporate buildings. It seems like all the real estate companies and land brokers are mafias. Anyway, where there is development, there is destruction! It's a fact. 

 As we knew that it's a leech season, we brought salt in our backpacks, but it was not enough for four of us. We asked for a packet of salt in a nearby shop. The shop doesn't sell salt but the kind hearted shop owner took it from her kitchen and gave it to us. There is myth that we shouldn't take salt for free. So, we payed her for the 10-20 ounces of salt. Then we headed up to Champa Devi Temple. 


The trial begins from the back of the temple. After few mins of our prayers, we took the trial which leads to the top of the mountain where we wanted to finish our hike. The path is extremely wild and verdant with wild ferns, bushes and trees. As we knew that: the starting point of the trial is shallow, we were unaware about the tremendous numbers of the leeches. We couldn't stand at same place for a minute or two. They eventually crept on our shoes and body. They are extremely attracted to humans. After few mins of walking, we saw many hungry leeches on your shoes. One already bit me. 




 Two friends were so much afraid of leech that they didn't want to move ahead. At that point, we were so disappointed that our hike would be worthless. We decided to come down and calm them. The anxiety was uncontrollable. We picked out all the leeches from their shoes. Then we came back-------. Along the way, I asked my friend, Nirpesh to go up ahead and Eliza and Sujita would stay in a shop where we took the salt------. Then Nirpesh and I walked up the mountain. But before going up, we put salt all around on our shoes and legs. Leeches are halophobic in nature. 


 "This is it! The moment we have been waiting is here. Let's do it!". We were talking to ourselves. With an urge to walk uphill narrow path, we walked non stop for about 45 mins until we found two ways. One leads to the south and one goes to North. The narrow path of the forest is so wild. Soloing could be dangerous. In the mean time, there was no rain. We took that day as a lucky day. Rainy day could bring so many problems. Like, leeches would fall from trees on a rainy day. And the roads could be slippery. 



Every moment was blissful.We did enjoy the rhythmic sounds of the streams, bird songs, and the sound of the leaves as we stepped on them.



Then when we reached on the top of the mountain, there were two ways. We took the one that leads to the north. We were welcomed by the pine forest. And there were no leech at all. They don't live in alpine forest. We walked non stop for another 30 mins to reach the Champa Devi Temple. Actually, there are two Champa Devi temples, I and II. One which is situated on the top of the mountain is Champa Devi I. We actually have no idea about the temples. Maybe, one who can't walk on the mountain, can worship the temple which is situated down the mountain. 


 The view of the valley is even more stunning from the top of the mountain, 2200-2300m above from sea level. And the pine forest on the other side of the mountain looks spectacular too. There are plenty of Rhododendron trees on the top of the mountain. The wildflowers were so amazing to see. 



After few mins of prayers, we roamed around here and there and took rest. My friend, Nirpesh got stress in his legs. We needed that rest. Then we took our snacks. We didn't want to eat much. Because, it would be so hard to come down with full stomach. After finishing our snacks, we spent some time taking some pictures of us and the surrounding as a memory that we had been here. Wonderful, the hike was worthwhile anyway. We realized that the time is precious gift and we made moments with mountains, forests, streams and winding roads. 



As we knew that two friends of us were waiting down the mountain, we didn't spend much time on the top, we ran the same winding tunnel of bushes and trees where leeches were abundant. But before doing that, we put the salt water on our shoes and legs and hands in order to be safe from leech. 


It took us around 7-10 mins to come down to a place where we started our hike. Awesome, it was so much challenging to go up through that path and got so easy while coming down as we ran. We completed our hike in just 3 hours. We are one of the best hikers among friends.



Our friends who had been waiting down, were so much excited to see our phones. Eventually, when we came down, we gave our phones to them to see the photos and videos that we took along the trials. They were so happy that at least we made our hike worthwhile. And we told them to come back again through other route(Dakshinkali-Hattiban resort-Champadevi Temple) which is so much easy as far as we knew. 


We took our snacks and fruits in the same shop where we bought salt. Then, we talked so much and laughed a lot. We had our tea too. It was one of the best teas which we had. 



After an hour, we headed to Taudaha and spent another 2 hours. We fed koi fish. And we started talking again. As they knew that I don't talk much, I was talking about philosophical things only. I realized that my friends know so much about life than I do. I just get lost with nature. Time would be less if we debated on that day. I appreciated my friends for things that I haven't not experienced and not known. 


Above all, we had one of our best days, September 4,2021. At 6 O'clock, we left for home. 




In the great valley which we live on has many adventures to offer. The one which we grew up is hiking. And it still is one of our best adventures. See you all in next blog which will be even more exciting. 









Sunday, May 2, 2021

Deurali Bhanjyang Hike

 Another inspiring day, nothing in any world can be conceived. No description of an adventure that I did in the bountiful of wilderness. How majestic and wild is the mountainside and with what wild lavishness is beauty and thus multiplied!


At the end of the year 2077 BS, I felt stagnated at home. In order to rejuvenate myself, I went on a painful new year day hike to a place where my freedom usually calls. Yes, I am one of the mountain goers. 


With traveler at heart, I followed the same native trials which I usually follow to get the southern end of the Kathmandu valley. However, with no pain no gain feeling, I pushed my limit to get to the top of the mountain on this hike. A few years back, I planned to hike this mountainside, situated at 2000m elevation. I once tried to attempt it too. Due to wild surroundings, I had to return back from the middle of the mountain. And because of the covid-19 outbreak last year, I didn't want to travel alone. Whatsoever, on the first day of the year 2078 B.S, I successfully conquered the mountain solo. 



I took my pace after I crossed a Nakhhu river which has been totally destroyed by human activities. The road along the river is nowadays used for transporting concrete materials like gravel, rocks which is affecting the river's identity and it's ecosystem. Skipping stones, I took the other way which leads to the Charghare. Along the way, I enjoyed sight seeing wheat fields. I noticed that the yield would be less because of less rainfall. 


Then after walking almost an hour from home, I took a rest on the edge of the mountain which I usually take a rest at a same place when I am hiking southern mountains. I had some water and washed away my sweat so as to feel energetic for the rest of the trial. I further, walked  up the mountain to cross the suspension bridge. Then, I walked other side of the mountain full of lush trees which leads to the Tikabhairab. It was so quiet in the forest that I didn't see anyone along the way. I was quite surprised that the spring brought extra color in the forest. However, I didn't pick any wildflower along the way. I just said 'wow' to them and walked further up. 




When I reached Tikabhairab, I already had pain in my knees. I wondered whether I could make it or not. Then, I walked slowly to the Burunchuli, a village on the lap of the huge mountain. After few minutes of rest, I walked up the mountain through the forest to the Deurali Bhanjyang. It was so quiet along the winding road. The bird songs are like symphony of the trials. The view from the mountain was quite unclear that day because of fog and the smoke coming from the wildfires across the country. In the meantime, Kathmandu valley made worst record on pollution index for a week or two.




I saw deforestation in many places in the name road construction. I was talking to myself along the way that the destruction of nature is immeasurable here------not only here, it's across the country. As a wilderness lover, I think that some places should be the same as they were before. In that way, we at least could save the ecosystem of those places. 



Anyway, I kept walking along the boundless forest although pain in my knees was killing me. I was just few minutes away until I reached top of the mountain. I took a rest one more time on the edge of the mountain and felt so calm. The cool breeze on the mountainside was so pure. I took a long breathe. Then, I slowly walked to the Deurali Bhanjyang. 


Finally, I was there on my own two feet. Two years of contemplation was worthwhile. When I reached the Bhanjyang, the view changed. The panaromic superb view from the viewpoint was spectacular. I was simply happy to see the valley from different perspective. I spent few minutes at Deurali because I had to return back also. I was on a day hike. At the same time, my brother was waiting down the mountain, at Burunchuli. (I made phone call to my brother to take me home while I was going up). 


I ate my snack on the top of the mountain. To be quite honest with you, It was one of the best snacks. However, after having snacks, I got back fired with tooth ache. The last week of the year, 2077 was painful as I was going through with dental problem (The dental nerves around my teeth had become weak). Then, I got a pain back on a new year day too after having hard foods. I felt dead and gone wild. Ouch! Pain had touched the sky. I had a pain killer from a first aid kit. Then, I walked down slowly to get my brother. Brother picked me up from Burunchuli. I didn't tell my brother that I had pain in my face. But, he had noticed the pain in my knees because I had difficulty in walking. Then, we got home. It took around half an hour to reach home on his bike. I didn't open my eyes until I reached home. The day was remarkable in so many ways. It was like, if you have not been in the deepest valley, you would never know how it feels like to be on the top of the mountain!


This hike made me even more brave and bold. I learned that we have to challenge things which come along the way knowingly or unknowingly. At the same time, we must live in present moment. Every moment that we spend in the mountains provokes so much in our life. Just in case if you don't know, life is awe good in the mountains. It offers so many rewards. If you want to get rewards, go hiking!

















Monday, November 23, 2020

Tapeshwor Mahadev Hike

© Bikesh Deshar

A friend of mine made phone call to me for a hike. Undeniably,  I said yes to his request. After a week of preparation, we went on a hike together on November 10, 2020. Although, we both had things to do and live far apart nowadays, we didn't make excuses in order to postpone our hike. However, we decided to make our hike possible. And it did. He was doing 10 day challenge about walking 10 km a day. Happily, we walked for more than 10 km on that day and our footsteps were uncountable.





We started our hike at 7:00 am in the morning. We didn't want to call it as morning walk. It was more than that. As I said he lives far apart, he came on his motorbike to my house. Later, we kept on walking from my house to our destination. The destination wasn't mundane. It's one of the best quite places of Kathmandu valley from where you get a chance to see entire valley from the eastern side including highest Himalayan ranges of the world. It probably has best view you could ever imagine.


As we walked through the shortcuts from Chapagaun, Himalayan ranges were so clear as gin on that day and we were amused by them. It seemed like they were following our entire trials. At the same time, our eyes were distracted by the flowery vegetation which is in full bloom along the way. After walking for almost an hour through bucolic country sides and crossing small rivers, let's say rivulets, we reached to the Badikhel. It's the neighborhood of Chapagaun. Now, if you want to hike our destination, all you need to do is to reach Badikhel, (Buspark) wherever you live. 



Badikhel is a small village which lies within Godawari Municipality. It's popular for pure drinking water. When we were young, we used to come here more often to get open bath at Gulinda, where crystal clear icy cold water comes from underground. It is nowadays collected and used as drinking water. 



Moreover, it lies on the lap of mountain ranges from where little Amazon begins. As we walked winding roads up the eastern mountains, we were welcomed by the bird's morning songs. Happily, I recorded their songs in my phone. If you are lucky enough, you would see squirrels too. Swaying our footsteps to and fro, we reached our destination. As I said, destination wasn't ordinary, it's something very special for those who do meditation. It is Tapeshwor Mahadev and is named after Mahadev who did mediation on the steep rocky mountain. As far as I know, this place has got enormous popularity during lockdown. But I do not know much about it. I would take a help from locals next time. The hike wasn't mean to know everything about Tapeshwor Mahadev. But it was all about enjoying some time together with a friend on the mountains as we met after so long.

After our morning prayers at the temple, we sat on the top of the mountain and had our tea and biscuits which I brought in thermoflask from home. Because of covid-19 outbreak, we thought that we shouldn't have any tea or things from teashop. While having our tea, we enjoyed the superb view of the place. The view literally was amusing on that day. Everything: the Ktmvlly, Himalayas, and the other mountain ranges illuminated with the morning sun. In the mean time, we got distracted from the colorful birds singing on the branches of the pine trees looking at us listening our talk. To be quite honest with you, we were only humans in the middle of nowhere. We didn't find anyone at the temple or along the trials. That is why, I said that it's one of the quite places where you can spend all day enjoying everything around you. Friend and I had a good time like we used to have when we were young. We talked a lot about our good ol' days. It seemed like we had a good break after so many days, months, and years. He shared his personal experiences about being away from Nepal. And I shared mine being in Nepal. What Nepal should be and what it is now! We came to know that the stability of Nepal in all respects takes time now. 

After half an hour finishing our tea and talk, we spent some time on photography capturing our moment in a frame. Then, we slowly walked down the winding road to the Badikhel Buspark Chowk and we used the other road to the Chapagaun. 




To sum it up, the hike was memorable for sure. We made fond memories along the trials. I still remember that I had an intense headache when I reached home all day and night. And I had to take a day of rest next day. 






As I said to my friend along the trials that I would love to see my father visiting the Tapeshwor Mahadev, father and I went again after taking a day of rest. With my father too, we used the same routine. We started walking at 7:00 am and reached the temple at 8:30 am. But while walking up the mountain, my father had dizziness. I was so afraid that what if something would happen what would I do in the middle of the mountainside! There was no sign of humans. 


After taking rest at so many places, we finally reached Tapeshwor Mahadev temple. We did our morning prayers and lit up oil lamps too. Soon, we had our tea and biscuits. I knew my father was loosing glucose level in his body. Then I made phone call to my brother to take us home on his motorbike. We waited for almost 20 mins. And I left my dad to his quite time. Man needs more quite time. He was amazed by the charming and glorifying landscapes, mountains all round. Yet so simple and massive valley stands still in the middle. While my father having his time, I took the photographs which I missed before when I was with my friend. Then my brother came to take us home. Happy, I didn't have any headache but my father had little leg pain which was obvious. 




Now, coming to the point that we should live in "now". I lived the moment of now with my friend and my father and brother. On this unprecedented time, we gave our precious time with one another. After all, time is all we have. So make the moments last.