Soloing Phulchoki

IN an unfathomed forest of Phulchoki, which is believed to be evolved in mesozoic era, I remained for more than 5 hrs, walking quietly up and down, photographing and climbing among the surrounding mountains covered with snow. Phulchoki furnishes an equally interesting example of wilderness wholly, or in part, by wide range of flora and fauna and in every direction, the landscape stretched out sublimely away in fresh wildness--- a manuscript written by the hand of Nature alone.

It all started with an obsession of walking. On a chilly morning of February 5, 2022, I woke up late and after my morning stuffs, I looked around from our terrace. I saw all the hills and mountains of the Kathmandu valley covered with snow. And I decided to hike Phulchoki, one of the care killing trails of the valley which stretches out 13 km from the base of the mountain. 

However, I already hiked this trail with my friend on last December, 2021 when first snowfall of the season hit the valley. With an urge to explore and experience the wilderness that the trail offers, I went on a solo hike.

Then, after my lunch at 11:15 AM, I walked out from my home (Chapagaun) to the Phulchoki Summit, which is about 20 km away that is equivalent to 12.42 miles from my home. As I had to walk back and forth, about 24.84 miles, I didn't waste my time here and there. After walking about 30 mins, I reached Taukhel, neighborhood of Chapagaun. Then, I took a bus that goes to Godawari in order to save 30 mins of my time. [If I walked from Taukhel to Godawari through Peace Mountain, it could take 30 mins or more]. However, I thought that I could use that amount of time to reach the summit on time.

It just took 3 mins to reach Godawari Bus park from Taukhel by bus. Then, I looked at time that it was 12:08 PM. As snowfall was so much that I saw so many people hustling at the bus park with zeal to enjoy in the snow. 

I realised that I had to walk another 13 km to reach the summit. When I reached Godawari, I already had mild headache and felt so much hungry that I took the fruit juice from the backpack and had a sip of it. Then, I took chocolate bite. And, I slowly walked uphill through the forest path, which is so wild and raw that we need guts to explore solo. 

The forest of Phulchoki is so magnificent that we define nature as we walk through the forest. Being one of the last remnants of sub tropical forest in Nepal, it's the most tranquil place of the valley where we find peace and color our heart.

Then, after walking 5 km of an entire 13 km trail, I saw flakes of snow on the road and I felt so much excited in a good way. Furthermore, I took a pace to walk uphill. I was afraid that my headache would be intense but after having chocolate, juice and water, it stopped my headache. 

As there were other hikers too, I didn't worry about the wild surroundings. I know that soloing this trail other times would be dangerous. We may encounter wild bears and boars.

As I didn't care about other hikers what they were doing on the trail, I focused on reaching the summit. Moreover, with so much snow, about 2-3 feet, the beaten track was so much slippery to walk. At that same time, it was challenging to walk and I didn't use any shortcut. We could lose stamina to reaching out the top of the mountain.

As I reached the higher elevation, the pocket of fog lingered the mountain. That fleeting moment which I was looking for, was remained for few minutes. Then, I indulged in solitude, finding a peace in silence. At that point of the trail, I didn't see anyone, just me and wild surroundings. It meant a lot to me in a good way. That was my moment of zen.

However, I got scared too and it was obvious. But, with so much determination, I reached the summit, after walking 3 hrs 30 minutes from the bottom of the mountain. The winding road of the Phulchoki is so much challenging, (Difficulty Rating-5).

Due to low visibility, I didn't spend much time on the summit. After my prayers at the temple, I walked back in search of a place where I could have my snacks. [On the summit, there is a teahouse which offers mainly tea and other snacks]. As there were other hikers having their tea and snacks, I didn't want to go there. I came a little bit down to have my snacks and tea which I took from home. 

Then after finishing my snacks, I walked slowly for a while in order to have few minutes on higher altitude. It was something like acclimatization of the body. Then, I did trail run up to 10 km. 3 km, I had to walk. When I was about to reach the bottom of the mountain, I had so much pain in my leg, downhill knee problem. Finally, I successfully came down the mountain. It was already 5:30 PM when I reached down the mountain, brother did make phone call to me and I said that "I am at Godawari waiting for bus and take me home from Taukhel". But he said; "You be there and I am coming to pick you up." It was such a huge relief to me. Otherwise, I was about to take a bus upto Taukhel and walked back for another 45 minutes to reach HOME.

Then I did wait for my brother at Godawari Bus park. He came to pick me up on his motorbike. At first, he scolded me not to hike Phulchoki alone......

I appreciated the way my brother told me. It's one of the dangerous places of the valley. Anything could happen in the forest. I, actually thought there would so many people on the trail like it used to be on last hike with my friend. Yes, there were so many people on the trail but, as I reached higher elevation, I came across with few people only. At some point, I thought I should go back. It was so scary when the fog engulfed the path.

When I reached home, I felt so much cold and I sat in front of fire for about an hour or two. Then, I filled my day's appetite with so much foods and had hot water with thyme seeds. It does take care of our lungs and keeps us away from cold. Next day, I was on full day rest. 

[This hike taught me a lesson that how hard it is to reach our goal in life! But with strong determination and dedication, we can do anything in life]. 

[When we stay close to the nature, we care our forest, our hills, our mountains with love]. 

Radar Station Hike, Acclimatization Hike

The sustained grandeur of the Kathmandu valley is strikingly illustrated by the surrounding lush hills and mountains. However, one big question mark comes in our mind whenever we hike these mountainsides that can we keep these lushness of the valley for our children, for another century?

Great thoughts are conceived when we walk in the wilderness. With countless thoughts on my mind, I did a solo hike around the southern mountains of the valley dated October 30, 2021. Radar station hike could be acclimatization hike for those who wants to hike upper elevation i.e. above 2300 m above the sea level. If you hike this place more than once, you could acclimatize above elevation for a month or two.

With good walking pace, I started my hike at 11 O'clock, from my house, Chapagaun and took the same native trails that lead to the Charghare where suspension bridge joins two villages. After crossing the bridge, I took the narrow forest way that goes to the Tikabhairav. I always admire this forest path since childhood. As far as I know, this path was made more than 500 years ago. It was a portal for a trade between remote villages of southern Lalitpur with Kathmandu valley. Now, with construction of motorway up the mountain, this path is less walk by and wilderness thrives here. 

Then after 7-10 mins of trail run through wild forest, I reached Tikabhairav. This place is so much polluted. It doesn't have good air quality. With ongoing rock extraction, this place has lost its true color even the river in which once used to flow crystal clear water has become polluted. The construction of motorway on the bank of the river is one of the reasons for the pollution of the river and responsible for the extinction of many species of fish.

Then I walked uphill to reach the Radar Station which is made on the top of the mountain, 2300 m elevation from sea level. To reach the top of the mountain, we actually have to pass Kote Danda and Tinpane Bhanjyang. After walking non stop for almost an hour from Tikabhairav, I reached Tinpane Bhanjyang. I actually used shortcut way to reach Tinpane. 

Kote Danda is a small village on the lap of foothills from where you see an emperor's view of the valley and the Himalayan ranges on a clear day. It's famous for "Lapsi", a fruit also known as hog plum which is native to Nepal. Well, I saw many of these plants on the way. But, the fruits are not ripened yet and I didn't eat. Actually, it tastes so good when you eat it. The salivary glands produce so much saliva when you taste it. It helps in digestion of foods as well as in fat burn. 

As I walked uphill, I felt very cold with thin air. And then I had to wear my jacket. When I reached Tinpane, it was already 2:00 pm. I realized that, to come here on foot, it takes 3 hrs. Without wasting my time at Tinpane, I walked another 30 mins uphill to reach the top of the mountain. 

I didn't see anyone hiking this place. But, it's packed with people at times when it snows. Few years back, it had massive snowfall.

When I reached the top, I enjoyed sight seeing. Unbelievable, the station offers magnificent 360 degree view. Himalayan ranges like Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Dorje Lakpa I, II, Gaurisankar, Himalchuli can be seen from different perspective. 

Unfortunately, this time, my phone lost all the battery charges and got switched off. I couldn't able to capture all the sceneries that the mountain offers. However, I captured few images and the videos from the other phone. Hopefully, I will go back next time with full preparation. Anyway, the hike was worthwhile in so many ways. 

After sight seeing, I had my snacks under the alpine tree. The top of the mountain has different species of alpine trees. It was so quiet that I had to finish my snacks as fast as possible. The wilderness is so much challenging. I didn't want to see any wild animals at that time. 

As soon as I finished my snack, I did trail run to come down the mountain. I thought running would be better to come down. It took me around 8 mins to come down. Why I did trail run? It's because, the forest which the big chunk of mountain has, is so wild. It changes its weather within mins. Anytime, daytime fog engulfs the mountain which arises fear in our mind. Secondly, it has cemetery in the middle of the mountain which even more pumps our heartbeat so fast when we pass it alone.

Then, when I reached down at Tinpane, I walked non stop for almost 1 and half to reach Charghare where my brother was waiting with his motorbike to take me home. I didn't have any leg problem on this hike, not even headache or any physical problem. Despite having good photos and videos, I enjoyed a lot in the mountains. Southern hills and mountains of the valley is strikingly stunning for day hike. I admire if my friends go for hike. The hike would be so much inspiring. But, do not throw your trashes in the mountains which I never do. I take my trashes back home. 

To sum it up, I take every hike as one of the ecotherapies, a range of nature based activity that can help our physical and mental well-being in so many ways. It gives me structure, makes me utilise the daylight and get out of bed. It gives me something outside of myself to nurture and look after and that helps me to better look after myself.

 

Dhunche Hike

Among the many unlooked-for treasures that are bound up and hidden away in the depths of Kathmandu valley solitudes, none more surely charm and surprise all kinds of travelers. The forests and the mountains and the wandering streams advertise their wealth in a more or less telling manner even in the distance, but nothing is seen of the valley until we have traversed them. 

It all started with a request. A friend of mine, Nirpesh requested for a hike around western mountains. Undeniably, I said yes to his request. Back in days, we did several hikes and travels together. Due to the travel restrictions, we felt stagnated at home. To escape from our daily routine, we went on a day hike around western mountains of the valley. And, we successfully completed "Dhunche Hike" together. The trial is popularly known as Champadevi Trial. 

With little group chat, we finalized our hike. Unfortunately, a friend couldn't make it because of his dentist's appointment. Then, we (Nirpesh, Eliza and her friend) decided to go to make our day. 

Four of us went on our motorbike and scooter to Taudaha, one of the biggest lakes around the valley. Then we took another way that leads to Champa Devi Temple, situated on the lap of huge mountain. We parked our motorbikes on the side of the road and headed west up the mountain. 

With so much determination and excitement, we walked uphill. While going up, we were already astonished by the view. The view of the valley looks spectacular from there. The concrete valley is no longer the same as it was before. All the arable land and open spaces of the valley are turning into a housing and corporate buildings. It seems like all the real estate companies and land brokers are mafias. Anyway, where there is development, there is destruction! It's a fact. 

 As we knew that it's a leech season, we brought salt in our backpacks, but it was not enough for four of us. We asked for a packet of salt in a nearby shop. The shop doesn't sell salt but the kind hearted shop owner took it from her kitchen and gave it to us. There is myth that we shouldn't take salt for free. So, we payed her for the 10-20 ounces of salt. Then we headed up to Champa Devi Temple. 

The trial begins from the back of the temple. After few mins of our prayers, we took the trial which leads to the top of the mountain where we wanted to finish our hike. The path is extremely wild and verdant with wild ferns, bushes and trees. As we knew that: the starting point of the trial is shallow, we were unaware about the tremendous numbers of the leeches. We couldn't stand at same place for a minute or two. They eventually crept on our shoes and body. They are extremely attracted to humans. After few mins of walking, we saw many hungry leeches on your shoes. One already bit me. 

 Two friends were so much afraid of leech that they didn't want to move ahead. At that point, we were so disappointed that our hike would be worthless. We decided to come down and calm them. The anxiety was uncontrollable. We picked out all the leeches from their shoes. Then we came back-------. Along the way, I asked my friend, Nirpesh to go up ahead and Eliza and Sujita would stay in a shop where we took the salt------. Then Nirpesh and I walked up the mountain. But before going up, we put salt all around on our shoes and legs. Leeches are halophobic in nature. 

 "This is it! The moment we have been waiting is here. Let's do it!". We were talking to ourselves. With an urge to walk uphill narrow path, we walked non stop for about 45 mins until we found two ways. One leads to the south and one goes to North. The narrow path of the forest is so wild. Soloing could be dangerous. In the mean time, there was no rain. We took that day as a lucky day. Rainy day could bring so many problems. Like, leeches would fall from trees on a rainy day. And the roads could be slippery. 

Every moment was blissful.We did enjoy the rhythmic sounds of the streams, bird songs, and the sound of the leaves as we stepped on them.

Then when we reached on the top of the mountain, there were two ways. We took the one that leads to the north. We were welcomed by the pine forest. And there were no leech at all. They don't live in alpine forest. We walked non stop for another 30 mins to reach the Champa Devi Temple. Actually, there are two Champa Devi temples, I and II. One which is situated on the top of the mountain is Champa Devi I. We actually have no idea about the temples. Maybe, one who can't walk on the mountain, can worship the temple which is situated down the mountain. 

 The view of the valley is even more stunning from the top of the mountain, 2200-2300m above from sea level. And the pine forest on the other side of the mountain looks spectacular too. There are plenty of Rhododendron trees on the top of the mountain. The wildflowers were so amazing to see. 

After few mins of prayers, we roamed around here and there and took rest. My friend, Nirpesh got stress in his legs. We needed that rest. Then we took our snacks. We didn't want to eat much. Because, it would be so hard to come down with full stomach. After finishing our snacks, we spent some time taking some pictures of us and the surrounding as a memory that we had been here. Wonderful, the hike was worthwhile anyway. We realized that the time is precious gift and we made moments with mountains, forests, streams and winding roads. 

As we knew that two friends of us were waiting down the mountain, we didn't spend much time on the top, we ran the same winding tunnel of bushes and trees where leeches were abundant. But before doing that, we put the salt water on our shoes and legs and hands in order to be safe from leech. 

It took us around 7-10 mins to come down to a place where we started our hike. Awesome, it was so much challenging to go up through that path and got so easy while coming down as we ran. We completed our hike in just 3 hours. We are one of the best hikers among friends.

Our friends who had been waiting down, were so much excited to see our phones. Eventually, when we came down, we gave our phones to them to see the photos and videos that we took along the trials. They were so happy that at least we made our hike worthwhile. And we told them to come back again through other route(Dakshinkali-Hattiban resort-Champadevi Temple) which is so much easy as far as we knew. 

We took our snacks and fruits in the same shop where we bought salt. Then, we talked so much and laughed a lot. We had our tea too. It was one of the best teas which we had. 

After an hour, we headed to Taudaha and spent another 2 hours. We fed koi fish. And we started talking again. As they knew that I don't talk much, I was talking about philosophical things only. I realized that my friends know so much about life than I do. I just get lost with nature. Time would be less if we debated on that day. I appreciated my friends for things that I haven't not experienced and not known. 

Above all, we had one of our best days, September 4,2021. At 6 O'clock, we left for home. 

In the great valley which we live on has many adventures to offer. The one which we grew up is hiking. And it still is one of our best adventures. See you all in next blog which will be even more exciting.