Latarambeshwor Mahadev Hike

With such grand displays as Nature is making here, how grand are her reservations, bestowed only upon those who devotedly seek them! Beneath the wild and lush mountains, the bucolic village is glowing with its folklore ID and sculpturing the mountains with desolate wilderness, how many shy wild creatures are at home beneath the grateful lights and shadows of the woods, rejoicing in their fullness of perfect life!

Yes, we are talking about Latarambeshwor Mahadev, located at Makawanpur district, neighboring district of Kathmandu valley which has become exclusive hiking destination among outdoor enthusiasts these days. On 17th June, 2022, friend and I successfully made it to the Latarambeshwor after a few days of preparation. As always, it all started with a phone call. Around 11 0' clock, my friend, Nirpesh made phone call to me and said that "Lets do it today, Latarambeshwor Hike!". And I said:"Its already 11:00 AM and we couldn't make it." He said again:"We can and I'll be there in your home at 11:30 AM". Then, I packed my backpack and waited for him. I did call back again and said that if there were any landslides, we would come back, OK!". Then we started our 42 km journey to the Baguwa Bridge, Makawanpur on bike. From Chapagaun, we headed to the Tikabhairab and filled our supplies with snacks and took Loknath Highway that connects Kathmandu valley from south. With no expectation, we got to the Tinpane Bhanjyang above which Nimbus clouds were already playing hide and seek with the sun. Then we took the steep road with precautions. My friend rode a bike and I looked for falling rocks from the mountains with an eagle eye. 

After 2 hours of riding a bike from home, we reached Baguwa (Bagmati) Bridge, crossing foothills of southern lalitpur, like Tinpane Bhanjyang, Bhattedanda, Chhapeli etc. Crossing the bridge and leaving the highway, we took a beaten road that goes to Latarambeshwor Mahadev (west). We parked our bike on the front yard of the tea house, near the Army Camp. 

Around 1:21 PM, we started our hike. I said to my friend that we were finally here....Lets do it! After a few minutes of walk, we came across with the fork in the road. We got confused that which way we should take! Then I walked few meters back and asked about the trail to school children who were playing outside their school. Without hesitation, they showed us the route to the Latarambeshwor Mahadev. As said by school children, we took the left one and walked uphill through the narrow path of the mountain. With so much lush green to see, we kept walking through the maize field until we reached the last house of the trail. We re-filled our water bottle from the tap and walked further up. Again, we came across with the dividing track. Then, I walked back and asked to the group of other hikers who were having their snacks before going up in the tea house. They said that they didn't know about the trail. Then a girl came out from the house and told me:"either way gets you to the top of the mountain". I said:"Okay! Thank you very much". 

Then we took the left one again which seemed less walk by by the hikers as we entered the tunnel of the wild forest. To keep an eye on, we did not waste our time taking pictures along the trail. At some point, we talked to our self that did we take the wrong way? However, we managed to get out of that tunnel and got to the main trail. I felt so exhausted that I wanted to throw even my clothes away. After getting to the main trail, we walked slowly further up. We couldn't explain how nature was in the LM mountains! 

We were stunned by the wild shades of green as we strolled uphill through the rugged bush forest, realizing Godful nature herself, is an Artist painting every tree with patch of mosses on its branches and ferns laid on the trunk, delighting the art of nature with wild bushes. The argument for fine wildness needs no explanation.

As we were walking relentlessly, we met another group of  hikers who were coming back after finishing their hike and asked that how long did you guys take to reach on the summit? They said:"Well, it depends how on fast you can pick up the pace! It took us 3 hrs to reach the top of the mountain". We said:"Okay! Thank you very much. Hope you guys walk slowly down the mountain". They said:" It's just few mins away and you guys may need another 30 mins or more in order to reach the summit". We said: "Awesome! Thank you very much".

With an excitement, we walked further up the mountain so as to reach the summit on time. Finally, we reached the top of the mountain at 2: 50 PM, a hiker's point where hikers from Kathmandu valley and Hetauda meet. It took us around 1 hr 20 mins from the bottom of the mountain. As soon as we got to the top, we were engulfed by the pocket of fog blocking exquisite 360 degree view with subtle shade of gray. Then, we took the way that leads to the Latarambeshwor Mahadev Temple, situated on the other side of the mountain. At that point, I realized that that path which our forefathers used to say, the hardest and most challenging part of the trail. It starts with an edge of the mountain from where we have to walk holding the horse grass plant to the other end of the mountain. Back in days, when there was no iron bars, it was so hard to pass the trail. Out of 10, 3 returns back due to its challenging path and unpredictable gusts. 

After a few mins of walk, we finally reached Latarambeshwor Temple, residing on the top of the mountain. We did our prayers and scout the surroundings to see the astonishing view that the mountain offers. West and north view is still wild and seems unexplored. We did wait for the weather to settle down in the mountain. With number of hikers these days, the mountain had become polluted with chunks of plastic bottles, wrappers, cans etc. all around. It was so sad to see people littering their trash on a religious place like that.  And we did not stay on the top and came few meters down in order to have our snacks. We even shared our snacks with local kids who made a long journey to the temple top to take the offerings, for instance, money and fruits which hikers had offered in the temple. Then we sat for a while so as to have peaceful and calm time, enjoying the view from the mountain. In the nick of time, things get magical in the mountains. You see mountains very clear and in a snap of finger, the view gets invisible with the mist. In the mean time, the speed of the wind is so much stronger. After spending few mins, around 40-45 mins on the top, finishing our snacks, we decided to stroll back as time was running out too. At 4:05 PM, we walked back to the place where we parked our bike, down the mountain. As always, half of the trail, we did trail run and instead of shortcut, we took the main trail continuously to reach down the mountain. We did not want to get lost in the tunnel of forest. We met few hikers along the way going up at that time. We told them to take pace in order to reach the top on time. Nobody goes up late in the afternoon. 

It took us almost 1 hr to reach the bottom of the mountain where we parked our bike. We wanted to have  tea in the nearby tea house. But, calculating our time, we missed it and left for home. Happily, we reached our home on time at 6:50 PM. 

The day was remarkable in so many positive ways that we finally made it to the Latarambeshwor Mahadev Temple although it is far away from the Kathmandu valley. As we are outsider by nature, we always want to spend time hiking mountainsides. We are so much obsessed with walk. The analog version of traveling is awe-inspiring. 

 

© NIRPESH SHARMA

Soloing Phulchoki

IN an unfathomed forest of Phulchoki, which is believed to be evolved in mesozoic era, I remained for more than 5 hrs, walking quietly up and down, photographing and climbing among the surrounding mountains covered with snow. Phulchoki furnishes an equally interesting example of wilderness wholly, or in part, by wide range of flora and fauna and in every direction, the landscape stretched out sublimely away in fresh wildness--- a manuscript written by the hand of Nature alone.

It all started with an obsession of walking. On a chilly morning of February 5, 2022, I woke up late and after my morning stuffs, I looked around from our terrace. I saw all the hills and mountains of the Kathmandu valley covered with snow. And I decided to hike Phulchoki, one of the care killing trails of the valley which stretches out 13 km from the base of the mountain. 

However, I already hiked this trail with my friend on last December, 2021 when first snowfall of the season hit the valley. With an urge to explore and experience the wilderness that the trail offers, I went on a solo hike.

Then, after my lunch at 11:15 AM, I walked out from my home (Chapagaun) to the Phulchoki Summit, which is about 20 km away that is equivalent to 12.42 miles from my home. As I had to walk back and forth, about 24.84 miles, I didn't waste my time here and there. After walking about 30 mins, I reached Taukhel, neighborhood of Chapagaun. Then, I took a bus that goes to Godawari in order to save 30 mins of my time. [If I walked from Taukhel to Godawari through Peace Mountain, it could take 30 mins or more]. However, I thought that I could use that amount of time to reach the summit on time.

It just took 3 mins to reach Godawari Bus park from Taukhel by bus. Then, I looked at time that it was 12:08 PM. As snowfall was so much that I saw so many people hustling at the bus park with zeal to enjoy in the snow. 

I realised that I had to walk another 13 km to reach the summit. When I reached Godawari, I already had mild headache and felt so much hungry that I took the fruit juice from the backpack and had a sip of it. Then, I took chocolate bite. And, I slowly walked uphill through the forest path, which is so wild and raw that we need guts to explore solo. 

The forest of Phulchoki is so magnificent that we define nature as we walk through the forest. Being one of the last remnants of sub tropical forest in Nepal, it's the most tranquil place of the valley where we find peace and color our heart.

Then, after walking 5 km of an entire 13 km trail, I saw flakes of snow on the road and I felt so much excited in a good way. Furthermore, I took a pace to walk uphill. I was afraid that my headache would be intense but after having chocolate, juice and water, it stopped my headache. 

As there were other hikers too, I didn't worry about the wild surroundings. I know that soloing this trail other times would be dangerous. We may encounter wild bears and boars.

As I didn't care about other hikers what they were doing on the trail, I focused on reaching the summit. Moreover, with so much snow, about 2-3 feet, the beaten track was so much slippery to walk. At that same time, it was challenging to walk and I didn't use any shortcut. We could lose stamina to reaching out the top of the mountain.

As I reached the higher elevation, the pocket of fog lingered the mountain. That fleeting moment which I was looking for, was remained for few minutes. Then, I indulged in solitude, finding a peace in silence. At that point of the trail, I didn't see anyone, just me and wild surroundings. It meant a lot to me in a good way. That was my moment of zen.

However, I got scared too and it was obvious. But, with so much determination, I reached the summit, after walking 3 hrs 30 minutes from the bottom of the mountain. The winding road of the Phulchoki is so much challenging, (Difficulty Rating-5).

Due to low visibility, I didn't spend much time on the summit. After my prayers at the temple, I walked back in search of a place where I could have my snacks. [On the summit, there is a teahouse which offers mainly tea and other snacks]. As there were other hikers having their tea and snacks, I didn't want to go there. I came a little bit down to have my snacks and tea which I took from home. 

Then after finishing my snacks, I walked slowly for a while in order to have few minutes on higher altitude. It was something like acclimatization of the body. Then, I did trail run up to 10 km. 3 km, I had to walk. When I was about to reach the bottom of the mountain, I had so much pain in my leg, downhill knee problem. Finally, I successfully came down the mountain. It was already 5:30 PM when I reached down the mountain, brother did make phone call to me and I said that "I am at Godawari waiting for bus and take me home from Taukhel". But he said; "You be there and I am coming to pick you up." It was such a huge relief to me. Otherwise, I was about to take a bus upto Taukhel and walked back for another 45 minutes to reach HOME.

Then I did wait for my brother at Godawari Bus park. He came to pick me up on his motorbike. At first, he scolded me not to hike Phulchoki alone......

I appreciated the way my brother told me. It's one of the dangerous places of the valley. Anything could happen in the forest. I, actually thought there would so many people on the trail like it used to be on last hike with my friend. Yes, there were so many people on the trail but, as I reached higher elevation, I came across with few people only. At some point, I thought I should go back. It was so scary when the fog engulfed the path.

When I reached home, I felt so much cold and I sat in front of fire for about an hour or two. Then, I filled my day's appetite with so much foods and had hot water with thyme seeds. It does take care of our lungs and keeps us away from cold. Next day, I was on full day rest. 

[This hike taught me a lesson that how hard it is to reach our goal in life! But with strong determination and dedication, we can do anything in life]. 

[When we stay close to the nature, we care our forest, our hills, our mountains with love]. 

Radar Station Hike, Acclimatization Hike

The sustained grandeur of the Kathmandu valley is strikingly illustrated by the surrounding lush hills and mountains. However, one big question mark comes in our mind whenever we hike these mountainsides that can we keep these lushness of the valley for our children, for another century?

Great thoughts are conceived when we walk in the wilderness. With countless thoughts on my mind, I did a solo hike around the southern mountains of the valley dated October 30, 2021. Radar station hike could be acclimatization hike for those who wants to hike upper elevation i.e. above 2300 m above the sea level. If you hike this place more than once, you could acclimatize above elevation for a month or two.

With good walking pace, I started my hike at 11 O'clock, from my house, Chapagaun and took the same native trails that lead to the Charghare where suspension bridge joins two villages. After crossing the bridge, I took the narrow forest way that goes to the Tikabhairav. I always admire this forest path since childhood. As far as I know, this path was made more than 500 years ago. It was a portal for a trade between remote villages of southern Lalitpur with Kathmandu valley. Now, with construction of motorway up the mountain, this path is less walk by and wilderness thrives here. 

Then after 7-10 mins of trail run through wild forest, I reached Tikabhairav. This place is so much polluted. It doesn't have good air quality. With ongoing rock extraction, this place has lost its true color even the river in which once used to flow crystal clear water has become polluted. The construction of motorway on the bank of the river is one of the reasons for the pollution of the river and responsible for the extinction of many species of fish.

Then I walked uphill to reach the Radar Station which is made on the top of the mountain, 2300 m elevation from sea level. To reach the top of the mountain, we actually have to pass Kote Danda and Tinpane Bhanjyang. After walking non stop for almost an hour from Tikabhairav, I reached Tinpane Bhanjyang. I actually used shortcut way to reach Tinpane. 

Kote Danda is a small village on the lap of foothills from where you see an emperor's view of the valley and the Himalayan ranges on a clear day. It's famous for "Lapsi", a fruit also known as hog plum which is native to Nepal. Well, I saw many of these plants on the way. But, the fruits are not ripened yet and I didn't eat. Actually, it tastes so good when you eat it. The salivary glands produce so much saliva when you taste it. It helps in digestion of foods as well as in fat burn. 

As I walked uphill, I felt very cold with thin air. And then I had to wear my jacket. When I reached Tinpane, it was already 2:00 pm. I realized that, to come here on foot, it takes 3 hrs. Without wasting my time at Tinpane, I walked another 30 mins uphill to reach the top of the mountain. 

I didn't see anyone hiking this place. But, it's packed with people at times when it snows. Few years back, it had massive snowfall.

When I reached the top, I enjoyed sight seeing. Unbelievable, the station offers magnificent 360 degree view. Himalayan ranges like Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Dorje Lakpa I, II, Gaurisankar, Himalchuli can be seen from different perspective. 

Unfortunately, this time, my phone lost all the battery charges and got switched off. I couldn't able to capture all the sceneries that the mountain offers. However, I captured few images and the videos from the other phone. Hopefully, I will go back next time with full preparation. Anyway, the hike was worthwhile in so many ways. 

After sight seeing, I had my snacks under the alpine tree. The top of the mountain has different species of alpine trees. It was so quiet that I had to finish my snacks as fast as possible. The wilderness is so much challenging. I didn't want to see any wild animals at that time. 

As soon as I finished my snack, I did trail run to come down the mountain. I thought running would be better to come down. It took me around 8 mins to come down. Why I did trail run? It's because, the forest which the big chunk of mountain has, is so wild. It changes its weather within mins. Anytime, daytime fog engulfs the mountain which arises fear in our mind. Secondly, it has cemetery in the middle of the mountain which even more pumps our heartbeat so fast when we pass it alone.

Then, when I reached down at Tinpane, I walked non stop for almost 1 and half to reach Charghare where my brother was waiting with his motorbike to take me home. I didn't have any leg problem on this hike, not even headache or any physical problem. Despite having good photos and videos, I enjoyed a lot in the mountains. Southern hills and mountains of the valley is strikingly stunning for day hike. I admire if my friends go for hike. The hike would be so much inspiring. But, do not throw your trashes in the mountains which I never do. I take my trashes back home. 

To sum it up, I take every hike as one of the ecotherapies, a range of nature based activity that can help our physical and mental well-being in so many ways. It gives me structure, makes me utilise the daylight and get out of bed. It gives me something outside of myself to nurture and look after and that helps me to better look after myself.