Rolwaling Valley Trek

Aspiring climbers, seeking adventures and opportunities to test their strength and skill, attempt to penetrate the Himalayan wilderness and push their limits to reach the summits. However, the grandest excursion of all to be made hereabouts is to the heart of the Himalayas, covered with icy crowns. Those towering peaks laden with glaciers that are terribly roughened and interrupted by crevasses and ice cliffs are very high, which render comparisons with our own height meaningless. Only good climbers should attempt to gain the summit, led by a sherpa of proven nerve and endurance. Well-established mountain, forest, and river trails wind down the mighty Tamakoshi River to the place where our trek was for, Rolwaling Valley.

© Bikesh Deshar

Rolwaling, a remote mountain valley at an altitude of 4000 meters, lies northeast of Kathmandu, near the Tibetan border and to the west of the Khumbu region. The Rolwaling Valley in the Gaurisankar Conservation Area stands as a tribute to the majesty of the Himalayas and continues to attract adventurers, trekkers, and mountaineers from around the world, who are eager to explore its wild surroundings and experience its unique blend of natural and cultural wonders.

NEPAL government has expanded the number of peaks available for mountaineering to more than 300. Among them, the Rolwaling valley boasts over 19-20 peaks exceeding 6000 meters that are open for commercial climbing. Situated between the Langtang and Everest ranges, the Rolwaling Himal Range can be reached by 2 days from Kathmandu, leading to the major settlement of Beding village in the Rolwaling valley. 

The Rolwaling valley is also known for one of the largest glacial lakes, Tsho-Rolpa Lake. Back in our school days, we used to read about it in the textbook saying that at any time; it could explode, affecting the people along the Rolwaling valley.

Instead of climbing the peaks of the Rolwaling Valley, my friend and I set off on a week-long trek to witness the formation of the majestic lake and admire the valley's wild surroundings.

DAY 1

With our past experience in Shey Phoksundo National Park together back in 2079 B.S., my school friend John and I decided to explore the Gaurisankar Conservation Area. We bought bus tickets from Kathmandu and set on a long ride along the Arniko Highway. Due to the hazy weather, we couldn't see the mountain ranges at their best. After about 10 and half hours, we reached Chet-Chet, staring point for the trek around 3:45 PM. 

With no time to waste, as soon as we arrived at Chet-Chet, a small village near the bank of the Tamakoshi River, we took the first leap of the trek towards Simigaun, a few hours away from Chet-Chet. Once we crossed the river via the suspension bridge, we took the uphill staircase path that leads to Simigaun. Simigaun is also a small village nestled in the lap of the Himalayan foothills. As we were walking along the trails, we decided to stay at one of the tea houses situated on the top of the hills so that we wouldn't have to start from the bottom the next day. We took a few photos and videos along the trails as a memory of a lifetime. The trail isn't busy at all. We came across a few Nepali trekkers who had returned from Tsho-Rolpa. They said it was snowing up in the Beding and Na Villages. We wondered what would happen if the trails were closed due to a heavy snowy blizzard! John was worried for not bringing the down jacket. Saying goodbye, we continued walking to our tea house, which was recommended by one of the mountaineers we met on the bus, who had summited Everest five times.

As we arrived at our tea house, I made phone calls to my home and informed my parents that we had safely reached Simigaun. My friend, who is married and has a child, soon, had a video call with his family. Later, after we had cleaned up and changed clothes, we went to the dining room to have some hot water and tea. There were other Nepali trekkers as well as foreign trekkers from Germany who had arrived earlier than us. After ordering our meal for the night, all of the trekkers gathered in the dining room for some gossip. Usually, the trekkers talked about their past trekking experiences. We stayed calm and didn’t mention anything about our past treks. We simply listened to them. Those young trekkers seemed quite naive to us when it came to walking in the mountains, whereas the elderly German couple had done the Manaslu Circuit Trek last time. I refrained from mentioning that I had also done the MCT a few years ago. I didn’t want the conversation to drag on and didn’t want to disturb the elderly couple by asking unnecessary questions, as some other trekkers did. We treat all foreigners as guests and do not want to be part of any distractions. As discussions were ongoing, our meal for the night was served. To satisfy our voracious appetites, we enjoyed Nepali dinner with some chilies. I had lots of hot water since the place and the weather seemed cold, and I also wanted to stay hydrated. The rest of the trekkers were served later, including the elderly couple who also enjoyed a Nepali Thali. After our dinner, all of them left to their rooms and I had a pleasant conversation with the owner of the tea house about how tourism in Nepal had been affected by the COVID-19 outbreak. He mentioned that despite the challenges faced by other trekking regions, you can still experience and taste the unique blend of the Himalayas here in the Rolwaling Valley. He further mentioned encountering Red Pandas on the trails once you reach an elevation of 3000 meters. I was amazed to hear that. He also mentioned that, unlike other places in the Himalayas, all trekkers are treated well here in the Rolwaling Valley. Later, he got busy in the kitchen. Then, the curious  elderly couple came in and started talking to each other in the corner of the room while I was sitting next to them, having some hot water. Their guide also popped in and started talking to me. I got information about the trails from him since we didn’t have an offline map this time. It was worth talking to him. The elderly couple bid me goodnight and went to sleep while I continued chatting with their guide. After some time, I also went to sleep.

DAY 2

We woke up early in the morning and completed our morning routine. While other trekkers left early for the next stop, we took some time for a tea break. Around 6:45 AM, after settling the bills, we also set on the adventure up the trails. 

As our determination was to reach Beding, a heavenly place nestled in the lap of the Himalayas, we walked slowly along mountain trails covered with Rhododendron blossoms. Along the trail, two Nepali trekkers whom we had met at our tea house the previous day were sitting in the rest stop made for trekkers like us. We didn’t stop for a rest, as we wanted to continue walking, but we mentioned that we would see them on the trail. However, after a few minutes, they also followed us. With some conversation, we continued our walk together.

After reaching the river trails, they fell behind, and John and I continued walking uphill, enjoying views of the mountains that had never been explored before. Below the wild mountains, the river flowed endlessly with its turquoise color. After about an hour of walking, we reached Uttise, which is at an altitude of 2055 m. From there Surmuche is 2 kms away, where we planned to have some food. As we continued walking up the forest trail, we passed our trail friends who had set out earlier in the morning from the same tea house where we stayed.

At times, John walked ahead on the trail while I took pictures of the surroundings. The trails reminded us of the Langtang region, making us feel like we had returned to Langtang once again. Listening to the bird songs along the winding trail and the rippling of the river, we walked uphill through the forest trail, stepping on the man-made stone staircase to Surmuche. At 9:10 AM, we reached Surmuche, where there was only one tea house. We arrived earlier than expected. Deciding it was too early for lunch, we continued further up the trail. At this altitude, increasing our walking pace didn’t matter much, but we knew to be cautious at higher altitudes. We encountered a group of trekkers returning from their trek. We asked them how long it would take to reach Dongang, where we planned to have our lunch. At one point on the forest trail, we stopped for a food break. We unpacked the food we had brought from home in our backpacks. While chatting, John and I thoroughly enjoyed the trail foods. It was one of our best meals on the trail so far, reminiscent of the meals we had during the Shey Phoksundo Trek. Amidst the steep trails, we savored our food despite the strong mountain gusts hitting us.

As we continued to walk further up the trail, we encountered narrow gorges where the mountains on the other side loomed large and untamed. It felt as though alpine vegetation had claimed them as their home over millions of years. I couldn't help but wonder how it would look during a snowfall; it might resemble a wonderland from a fairy tale. Suddenly, we came across a suspension bridge. Beneath it, icy spring water flowed from the upper slopes of the mountains, forming a pool. We decided that on our return from the trek, we would dive into that pool. Despite the icy cold water, the experience would be awe-inspiring. Continuing up the trail, we knew that Kyalje, one of the isolated places on the trail, was not far from the natural pool. As we walked through the forest trails, we encountered a few wild, colorful birds flying past us. It was a wonderful feeling on the trail. Then, around 11:20 AM, we arrived at Kyalje. We stopped for a rest and then continued our walk. We encountered another stream, long in length, where we took some time enjoying the waterfall. Afterward, we continued walking through the forest trail to Dongang, a riverside spot where we stopped to have lunch. Upon reaching Dongang at an elevation of 2790 m, we ordered our lunch at one of the tea houses and encountered four other trail friends who had set out earlier in the morning from the same tea house. They were preparing to depart for Beding, our mutual destination, which was nearly 6 hours away. We were fortunate to find that there was still lunch available for both of us. While settling the bills, two other groups of trail friends also reached Dongang. Knowing that cooking a full meal would take time, they opted for noodles, which are quicker to prepare. One of the trail friends appeared quite weak, and we wondered if he and his companion would manage to make it to Beding. We advised him not to rush, especially considering his weakness. Without lingering, we set out on our 6-hour journey along the river trail.

As we ascended and crossed the suspension bridge, the weather suddenly shifted, and a gentle rain began to fall. Observing the mountains ahead shrouded in clouds, we hesitated on whether to continue along the trails. However, we pressed onward despite the approaching thunderstorm, eventually reached Thangdingma. It was there that my friend insisted we pause, as the snowfall had commenced.

Fortunately, we stumbled upon a tea house, where we sought advice from the lady owner about whether it was safe to continue along the trail in such weather. She reassured us that the snow would likely melt soon and posed no significant obstacle. After some contemplation, I made the decision to proceed and urged John to join me.

As we trudged along the snowy path amidst the snowfall, we were startled by a loud lightning strike, momentarily questioning my decision. Upon reaching one of the rest stops, the snowfall intensified into a heavy blizzard. John managed to put his raincoat, but I relied only on my jacket. Despite John's insistence to wait out the blizzard, I insisted we press on, considering the distance we had covered from the tea house.

Drenched in the snowy deluge, we persevered, realizing that this was one of those wild moments on the trail, experiencing what some might call 'trail magic' despite the challenging weather. Just a day prior, we had trudged through scorching sun, now facing a snowstorm. It was a moment to cherish, amidst the elements.

Mindful of the lightning, we refrained from using electronic devices but couldn't resist capturing some photos and videos to preserve the memory of the dramatic landscape. The mountains and trails draped in a blanket of snow added a new dimension of beauty and intrigue to the surroundings. It was moments like these that reminded us why we embarked on this trek in the first place. Along the way, I was ahead on the trail, a wild bird which is national bird of Nepal, Danphe crossed our path with its wings flowned. I was amazed to see it. For the first time in life, I witnessed it so close. It ran into bushes so fast that it got out of the sight. Then, I saw human settlements on the otherside of the mountain and thought that it might be Beding. I told John who was behind on the trail that we finally reached Beding. There was a suspension bridge covered with snow. It was so amazing to see that bridge covering in snow. I waited for John before stepping onto the bridge and we walked together. After crossing the bridge, having the leftover snacks, we walked on a snowy path. We stumbled upon a giant tree. It could probably be one of the species of Silver Fir covered with snow. Seeing its beauty, I couldn’t resist taking photos and thought I had to take just one shot. Fortunately, I got three of them, which were truly amazing.

The scene was dramatic. In the midst of a sloppy path, scattered with petite alpines, stood a majestic lone tree and its branches, adorned with a soft blanket of snow, stood out against the backdrop of swirling mist and falling snowflakes, creating a captivating scene of tranquility and beauty.

As we reached on the other side of the mountain, we were so sad that we came to know that it was not Beding but Ramding. At this point, we wondered, did we ever use the main trail or we came to other trail.  We looked for people in the house and all of the houses were locked. We couldn’t find any help but we kept walking. Then we came across with one tent. We shouted for help and a man popped in from the tent. We asked him that how long it would take to reach Beding. He replied that it was just 10 mins away from there. We finally got relieved that we were about to reach where we struggled for all day. Then, we saw the settlements of Beding covering with snow. The landscape looked surreal and I had not seen such beauty with my eyes before. There were countable number of houses which were all covered with snow and the snow was still falling giving the solid vibes of Himalayas. We realized that we finally came to the Himalayas. Since most of the tea houses were closed, we were confused about where we should look for one. When John shouted to a man standing at a far distance, he directed us to come over. Soon, we ran towards him and he informed us that this was the only tea house open.

Upon arrival around 6:00 PM, we secured a room for the night. After changing into warmer clothes and putting on jackets to combat the cold, we found that the water was so cold that we couldn’t even wash our hands properly. Subsequently, we headed to the dining room for some warm water and tea. There, we encountered four other trekkers whom we had met previously at the same tea house in Simigaun. Additionally, we befriended four other trekkers whom we hadn’t met before. They had all arrived before the snowy blizzard hit hard, sparing them from spending more time in the blizzard.

However, there was also the expedition team, who had come to the Rolwaling Valley to climb one of its peaks. As I was feeling so cold, I wanted to sit near the fire to warm my hands and body. However, after being in the snow for a long time, I refrained from sitting near the fire at first. It wasn't a good idea to expose our hands to the fire immediately. We decided to take our time and sit near the fire later. In the dining room, we engaged in many conversations on different topics while having our tea and water. During our tea time, we made phone calls to our homes to inform our parents that we had finally reached Beding and that it was snowing there. My mother warned me not to wander in the mountains.

We later learned that Beding is the final place on the trail where we could find electricity and a mobile network. Furthermore, we discovered that Beding village in the Rolwaling Valley is ancient, with a history dating back centuries. It has been inhabited by indigenous Sherpa people for generations, making it one of the oldest settlements in the region, possibly dating back over a thousand years. The village has a rich cultural heritage and is known for its traditional way of life, including farming, herding, and trade along ancient mountain routes. People from Beding and Na villages do not kill any animals, as it is a part of their Buddhist culture. Long ago, the Dalai Lama sent 108 sheep here, and he made sure they were set free. He promised they wouldn't be harmed. So, those sheep got to roam around happily, enjoying their freedom. There were many stories shared in the dining room. One of the interesting stories shared about Rolwaling was that it is mentioned in one of Guru Rinpoche's books, the ‘Pema Kathak’, which states that Rolwaling is a Beyul, a sacred hidden valley. During Guru Rinpoche's visit, he consecrated numerous natural sites and monuments that still scatter throughout the valley, establishing these sites to provide refuge during the most challenging times or in times of misfortune.

After our long talk, dinner was served. We didn’t hesitate to eat with our hands. It had been a full day, perhaps 12 hours in the trail, and we had hearty appetites to satisfy. We enjoyed rice, lentil soup, vegetables, and some chilies. After our meal, we still remained in the dining room, enjoying hot water near fire chimney. Later around 9:00 PM, we all went to sleep hoping the weather would be clear.

Day 3

Early, at 5:30 in the morning, we woke up. Peering through our window, we saw that the weather was clear, revealing a landscape covered with alluring snow. To our surprise, as we stepped outside, Beding village was blanketed in snow, offering the best views it had to offer. One obtains glimpses of its snowy cone up in the mountains and ridges. Further down the mountain, another snowy cone follows, covering the trees one after another. 

After our morning tea and settling our bills, we set out for the last village in the Rolwaling, Na village, which was 2.5 – 3 hours from Beding. Our group of two merged with a larger group of 10 trekkers, and together we headed towards Na village, where we planned to have lunch before continuing our hike to Tsho Rolpa lake, situated at an altitude of 4580 meters. As we were walking through snowy trail, I looked back in the trail and noticed that Beding Go Peak (6122 m) and Gaurisankar Himal (7134 m) illuminated with the morning sun.

As we walked along the snowy trail, we were amazed by the wild Himalayan mountain ranges in every direction. However, it was challenging to navigate the trail, and we frequently slipped. Nevertheless, we continued walking, capturing the breathtaking scenery with our eyes and committing it to memory for the rest of our lives.

We were utterly mesmerized by the river too. The bushes nearby river and the rocks, big and small, alpine trees covered in snow, created a dramatic scene. The rippling sound of the river added extra music to the breathtaking landscape. It was a sense of being spellbound by the river's beauty.

As the river cascaded down the mountain, its waters danced with the energy of an untamed spirit. Along its banks, the river rocks bore the burden of lingering snow, their surfaces dusted in patches of white. The bushes that lined the river's edge, once vibrant with the promise of summer, now stood adorned in the remnants of frost, lending a delicate charm to the landscape. Despite the remnants of winter's touch, the water within the river flowed freely, its liquid melody a harmonious counterpoint to the tranquil surroundings. In this transitional season, where nature hovered on the cusp of awakening, the river remained a steadfast symbol of renewal and vitality, its ever-flowing current a tribute to the eternal cycle of life.

After an hour and a half of walking through the snowy pass, we came across the footprints of a snow leopard and its cub, marked in a circle by the fellow trekkers who had headed up first. We were terrified and, at the same time, excited to see them. We speculated that the snow leopard and its cub might have walked through that trail in the mountains the previous night. With a sense of accomplishment, witnessing the footprints of a snow leopard had become one of the trail's most memorable moments.

Once the morning sunlight reflected off the snowy trail, we put on our polarized glasses to prevent snow blindness. Snow blindness and altitude sickness are real dangers in the Himalayas. That's why we wear our polarized glasses and avoid ascending to high altitudes too quickly. Otherwise, we could be in trouble. I frequently stopped for photos as I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to capture good shots. To frame a photo, I took off my sunglasses and framed it.

For the first time, we witnessed a waterfall frozen in time with our naked eyes, its turquoise blue color standing out against the mountain. It was quite amazing to see. As we were passing through the snowy trail, the views became even more wild. Some of the highest peaks of the Rolwaling looked amazingly big. We saw Mt. Khang Nachugo and its ranges on the left side of the trail. Further ahead, straight along the trail, we saw Mt. Chobuje peeking through with the morning sunlight. 

As we walked along the trail, we came across a Buddhist gateway, also known as a Mani Arch, adorned with photos of Buddhas, prayer wheels, flags, and Buddhist symbols. Personally, I realized that we had reached a sacred site in the Himalayas and thought that Na village was not far away. John and I prayed for a while. We had to. There was also a huge stone where we saw a magnificent painting of Guru Rinpoche. High up in the mountain, we noticed the Guru Rinpoche Cave Temple, which we had learned about the previous night. Continuing from there, we ascended the trail and finally caught sight of Na village, the most isolated village in the Rolwaling valley. It was also the last human settlement. A local man from Na Village approached us along the trail. We learned that he had come to invite us to stay in his tea house. It was his daily routine to approach trekkers on the trail and invite them to stay. While talking with him, we walked along towards Na Village. We were curious and asked him about the footprints we encountered along the trail. He told us they were from a snow leopard. Furthermore, he mentioned that one of the yaks had been killed by the river. He pointed his finger towards the site where the yak was killed. There, we could see Himalayan Eagles scavenging the carcasses of dead yaks. We informed him that we had seen the footprints of a mother snow leopard and its cub. Soon, we reached Na village, welcomed by the Mani walls inscribed with mantras, prayers, or sacred symbols, which hold great religious and spiritual significance for Buddhist Sherpas of Rolwaling Valley. Upon arriving at the tea house, we ordered our meal and, while having our tea and hot water, discussed whether we should hike to Dhudkunda or only visit Tsho-Rolpa Lake. One group suggested that if there was a lot of snow on the trail, they would turn back, while the other group was determined to push through no matter what. John and I found ourselves unsure, but we agreed that our priority should be to see and experience Tsho-Rolpa first!

After our lunch, we all set off for Tsho-Rolpa under the sunny skies. Once we passed the suspension bridge, our guide from the back caught up with us. He was the one we had chosen as our guide for Dhudkunda from Na village. We could easily get lost on the Dhudkunda trail if we tried to go alone or group. We needed to go with someone who knows the trail well. That's why we chose him, and he was the same man who invited us to stay in his tea house in the morning. Then, we entered one of the wide, flat, sloping alpine meadows, devoid of human settlements but a huge single rocks scattered in sight, with new-born clouds floating in the sunshine.

Directly on the trail, there stood the mountain, Mt. Chobuje, wholly unveiled, awe-inspiring in bulk and majesty, filling the entire view like a separate, new-born world, yet so fine and beautiful that it might well fire the dullest observer to desperate enthusiasm. As we made our way towards Tsho-Rolpa, we came across a suspension bridge, which served as the final bridge of the Rolwaling valley. At this point, the path forked. Taking the left would lead us to the Dhudkunda Trail, while the right would take us to Tsho-Rolpa. We chose the Tsho-Rolpa Trail; after all, that was the purpose of our entire trek! As the trail turned into a steep, winding path alongside the river, I found myself wearing two hats to shield against the gusts. Our guide advised me to remove one, so I complied, opening one of them. I didn’t know why! I thought it was the way to acclimatize to the surroundings. As I continued walking slowly, I began to feel a mild headache. Thankfully, I had water and some dry snacks to alleviate it. Despite the strong wind, we persisted along the steep trail, pausing occasionally to capture some photographs. We encountered some fellow trekkers who had just returned from Tsho-Rolpa; they mentioned that it was only a few meters further up. With anticipation mounting, we quickened our pace. Upon reaching the summit, the wind grew even fiercer, and my headache intensified. My vision dulled, and I felt fatigued. I couldn't help but wonder if leaving my hat on would have prevented the headache. Nevertheless, we reached our destination, overcoming all obstacles along the way!

We arrived at Tsho-Rolpa lake around 1:30 PM and took some time in silence. I sat near the lake and contemplated. Despite my headache, I felt content with the vibes of Tsho-Rolpa. Entering its vibration zone was worth it, soaking in all the positive energy from the lake and the surrounding Himalayan mountains was an experience of pure joy.

Tsho-Rolpa Lake is one of the youngest and wildest glacial lakes in the Himalayas. Despite its youth, it has already grown to a considerable size due to the exponential melting of glaciers, making it as vulnerable as it has ever been in history.

First of all, once we reached Tsho-Rolpa lake, all of us got busy doing things like burning incense sticks, meditating, sitting by the lake shore, capturing the lake and its surroundings with our eyes, etc. Our guide told us not to spend too much time at the lake as we had to make it to another lake as well. 

I sauntered along the rocky shore until I came to John, who was saying that the best view of Tsho-Rolpa could be seen in all its glory. We could see the frozen lake spread for miles around. We took pictures and videos of the lake as it was glorified for a moment before it was engulfed by newly born clouds. Then we were called by our guide to have some snacks in the newly made tea house near the lake before we headed to Dhudkunda. It was the only tea house in Tsho-Rolpa. There were no other tea houses. As I had a headache, I thought I could not make it. Instead of snacks, John and I took a cup of tea and refilled our water bottles. Once we had our tea, fellow trekkers decided to make it to Dhudkunda. Despite my headache, and knowing I might regret it later, I decided to continue with our group. After all, we had come a long way to make this trek happen. When would we have the opportunity to visit this place again? Now, there were ten fellow trekkers along with our guide and his friend, who would be making snacks for us once we reached Dhudkunda, walking along the trail with us.

We all got ready for another 2-hour walk to an elevation of 4850 m, where Dhudkunda is situated in all its complete wilderness. The trail follows a mountainous route characterized by rugged terrain varying in elevation, passing through alpine meadows and glacial meltwater channels. It involves ascending and descending along mountain paths, traversing rocky terrain. As we were walking along the alpine meadow, our guide showed us his passport and citizenship, which he kept in his backpack, and shared his life journey in the Himalayas. He said that he started working in the Himalayas at a young age. Although he did not have his guide permit, he seemed confident in his ability to guide on the Himalayan trails. Once we reached the glacial meltwater channel, also known as a glacial moraine, the path became uneven, littered with deposits of rocks and sediments ranging from small pebbles to huge rock boulders, making it difficult for us to navigate the trail. We followed the green trail marks, as instructed by our guide. As we were passing through the meltwater stream, I stumbled upon a small rock which I took and kept in my pocket as a souvenir. On the way, our guide wanted to exchange his backpack with mine as he thought I would have a physical problem ascending the rocky path characterized by boulders with a heavy load on my back. How kind-hearted our guide was! As the landscape was shrouded by heavy mist, we were unable to see the snow peak mountains around us. But the feeling of walking in a place like that was surreal. It reminded me of my solo Manaslu circuit trek. For six hours, I walked alone in the Larkye Pass covered with heavy snow; even the trail marker iron poles were buried in heavy snow. It was one of my greatest achievements and fondest memories as a hiker/trekker, perhaps even as a good mountaineer.

Once we reached the top of the mountain, it resembled a ridge where the trail to Dhudkunda was established. There, another fork in the road appeared, prompting our guide to use his ice axe to mark the trail indicating that we should descend down the mountain using that path. We took some rest and enjoyed the view from there. The sound of rockfall echoed around us, a high-pitched, sharp noise. The Himalayan mountains were veiled in heavy clouds, indicating that snowfall could occur at any moment. Moraines stretched into the distance, the only visible landmarks. The Himalayan gusts blew fiercely, perhaps the strongest wind we had encountered on our journey. From the top of the mountain, I observed down into the moraines and spotted one of the large holes. I wondered how it was formed as I saw the water flowing into it turn into ice. This added to our curiosity as we continued along the trail.

Around 4:30 PM, we arrived at Dhudkunda. It was a fantastic feeling to reach the spiritual lake. The lake was frozen as far as the eye could see. Upon reaching it, I circled the Buddhist Mani Arch three times and took a moment to appreciate the place, despite the headache. The lake appeared white, almost milky in color. I wondered if it had earned its name due to that characteristic. We decided not to linger at the lake due to the poor weather conditions. Instead, we quickly took pictures and videos of the frozen landscape. Walking on the frozen lake gave us an incredible feeling, as if we were walking on water. Then, we returned to the tea house near Dhudkunda, just a few meters away from the lake, and ordered noodles along with hot water. After enjoying our snacks, we hastened our pace and initiated the long journey back to Na village.

As the trail and the surrounding landscape were covered in heavy mist, we did not want to spend more time in the trail. While descending down the rocky mountains, I filled my pocket with leaves of Himalayan Junipers so that I could use them in my home as incense sticks. The aroma is so strong that it gives the Himalayan vibes in the room. Soon, we reached alpine meadows covered in the mist where we all gathered in front of a huge rock and prayed for a while. Our guide read some mantras of positive vibes and energy. Thanking our strenuous journey to the lakes, we turned back and looked towards the Tsho-Rolpa, Dhudkunda trails, we hastened our walk. It was a great way to say goodbye the lakes!

Around 7 o'clock in the late afternoon, we returned to the Na village. Once we arrived at our tea house, we all wanted to celebrate New Year's Eve. After finishing our cleaning and changing clothes, we gathered in the dining room and ordered our meal for the night. There, we had great conversations about how we managed to visit both lakes! Since there were other foreign trekkers present, we didn't want to speak too loudly. After they had their dinner and retired to their rooms, we enjoyed talking with each other. We planned that tomorrow, on New Year's Day, we would make it to the Chet-Chet no matter what! Once the discussion was settled, we had our meal. However, due to headache, I couldn't eat much. I ate what was on my plate, and I didn't ask for more. After dinner, we all gave money to our guide, who had done a great job guiding us through the Himalayan wilderness. We all went to sleep around 10:00 PM.

DAY 4

Tossing and turning, we couldn’t sleep well. Our brains weren't accustomed to sleeping at such high altitudes. 4000 meters isn’t usual for us. Around 5:30 AM, we woke up and packed our backpacks. After settling the bill and wishing everyone there, including our guide, a happy New Year, we set off for Beding, where we planned to take a tea break before continuing along the trail to Chet-Chet. We were unsure where we would stop for lunch.

John and I fell behind because we wanted to see the place one more time with our own eyes, a memory for a lifetime. We didn’t take many photos but relied on our eyes to capture the moment. Seeing with our own eyes, rather than through the lens of a camera, offers a more immersive and authentic experience and foster a deeper connection and understanding of the moment, creating memories that are rich and vivid. 

Along the way, we noticed that there was no snow on the trail, even though it had snowed the previous night. Around 8:00 AM, we arrived at the same tea house in Beding and ordered breakfast. Making phone calls to our homes, we felt relieved; the phone network didn’t work up in the Na village. We encountered the same old couple from Germany whom we had met in Simigaun and wished them a Happy New Year. After breakfast, we quickened our pace as we descended from Beding. We had a full day of walking ahead of us. We all headed down a few meters apart, knowing we would catch up at Surmuche for lunch. Looking back on the scenes left behind while going up last time, we walked down like never before. The pace was great, and we had to cover around 40 km that day to reach Chet-Chet; we walked down the trails. Taking a few breaks on the trail and having our snacks, we reached Kyalje around 12:30 PM, where we decided to have our lunch. We thought reaching Surmuche would be late for food, considering the distance to cover in that time.

After our lunch, we were ready for Chet-Chet. The food was awesome, especially the organic spinach. After walking for about an hour or so, we stumbled upon a spring pool where we decided to swim. John and I had previously planned to swim there. John dived into the pool first, followed by the three of us, while the rest of our fellow trekkers watched our swim from the suspension bridge located above the pool. It was an awe-inspiring experience to dive into a pool like that. It felt like a glorious ritual cleansing, washing away our physical pain and  negative vibes. However, the water was too cold to stay in for a long time. Refreshed, we continued down the trail, advising our trail friends to take a shorter path once we reached the suspension bridge between Surmuche and Simigaun. We would be skipping Simigaun and taking the Riku village trail instead.

Out of the blue, a local dog that we met in Kyalje while having our food followed us. We gave him meat, and that's why he followed us, we thought. He got ahead on the trail, as if he wanted to show us the way. Suddenly, it started to rain. We took some time to put on our raincoats at one of the rest stops. There was a man, too, with a 'Khukuri' strapped to his body, looking after his oxen in a shed. We noticed that he was disabled. We felt sorry for him, but we couldn't give anything except some snacks from a backpack, which I gave to him. I wondered how one could live there, in a shed with oxen and a fierce dog chained in front of it in the middle of the wild forest.

As it started to rain with thunder in the sky, we hurriedly walked on the trail, taking care with each step. We reached the suspension bridge around 4:30 PM. The same dog was waiting for us near the bridge. He was urging us to follow his trail that led straight to Simigaun, as we noticed from his tail wagging and low barking. Unfortunately, as we decided to skip the Simigaun trail, we crossed the suspension bridge and couldn’t follow the dog’s trail. As we were crossing the bridge, we had to say, "Go to your home," to the dog. We were unsure whether he understood us or not, but we left from there. As we crossed the bridge, a few of us were left behind. For them, we marked the trail with an arrow on the path so those who were left would know that we had taken that path. As we were walking along the Riku village trail, the rain got so heavy that we all got drenched. We had to take shelter at a rest stop for about half an hour. The lightning strikes were so bright that we could see them hitting the mountains. When the rain began to slow down, we continued down the mountain trail. After crossing the suspension bridge, John, I, and the rest of our group scattered along the trail, unaware of our exact location. It was late afternoon, still raining, and visibility was poor.

© Aayush Chhetri

One of our fellow trekkers got ahead on the trail. I tried to follow him but lost sight of him. I waited for a while on the trail for the others who were behind me. After some time, another trail friend appeared, and we walked together, discussing where John and the others might be. He assured me they were following behind. 

A few minutes later, we arrived at Chet-Chet where fellow trekker who had gone ahead was waiting. The rain worsened, and we grew worried about those still on the trail. John tried to call me, but the mobile network was unreliable. He made several attempts after losing track of the correct path. 

Eventually, they arrived, and we were relieved to see them despite the difficulties they faced. The tea house was crowded, so we looked for another place to stay, which was arranged by the lady tea house owner. We were impressed by the kindness of her! We managed to book four rooms.

After cleaning up and changing clothes, we gathered in the tea house's dining room to enjoy our last night of the trek, which coincided with New Year’s Day. We felt very content with our trek. We ordered dinner, and while it was being prepared, we enjoyed tea, hot water, snacks, and some of our fellow trail friends had drinks to celebrate the final day of our trek. 

As we chatted and had a good time, we asked the lady owner to book bus tickets to Kathmandu. She booked six tickets for us. After a while, our meal was served, marking our final meal on the trail. Even after dinner, we stayed in the dining room, knowing we might not see each other again after leaving Chet-Chet for Kathmandu. Eventually, some of us, including myself, went to sleep while others stayed up enjoying their drinks and conversations.

DAY 5

I woke up early at 5 in the morning and did my morning routine. As I was having my morning tea, John and  other fellow trail friends popped in. Once we finished our breakfast, we all waited for the bus to arrive. Around 6:15 AM, our bus to Kathmandu arrived. Coincidentally, it was the same bus we had taken last time to Chet-Chet for the trek. Since the bus was crowded with passengers and their belongings, we had to put our backpacks in the rear storage area. We also took the backpacks of other trail friends who were leaving for Kathmandu on their motorbikes. We decided to take their backpacks to Kathmandu where our four trail friends would meet us at our stop in Kathmandu to retrieve their backpacks. As we had formed a friendship, we thought this was something we could do for them.

Around 6:30 AM, six of us left for Kathmandu while our four trail friends stayed behind, coming on their motorbikes.

Abstract:

Setting out on a Himalayan trek through the Rolwaling Valley was a journey that transcended mere physical exploration; it was a profound odyssey of self-discovery, team-spirit, and connection with the majestic natural world. From the moment my friend John and I set foot on the snowy trails, we were enveloped in a world of breathtaking beauty and untamed wilderness.

Our trek began with a moment of uncertainty, as we deliberated whether to brave the snow-covered trails amidst the wintry weather. Seeking guidance from a wise tea house owner, we found reassurance in her words and made the bold decision to press forward. Little did we know that the choice would set the stage for an adventure filled with both exhilarating highs and daunting challenges.

As we trudged along the snowy path, each step illuminated by the occasional lightning strike, we were reminded of the raw power of nature and the fragility of our existence within it. Yet, within the swirling snowflakes and swirling mist, there was a sense of awe and wonder that stirred within us—a recognition of the sheer magnificence of the Himalayan landscape.

Our journey was punctuated by moments of serendipity and wonder, from encountering the elusive Danphe, Nepal's national bird, witnessing snow leopard's footprints to stumbling upon a lone tree cloaked in a blanket of snow. Each sighting was a tribute to the resplendent beauty of the natural world and the magic that awaited around every corner.

As we ventured deeper into the heart of the Rolwaling Valley, we found ourselves immersed in a tapestry of cultural richness and historical significance. From the ancient villages of Beding and Na, where we glimpsed centuries-old traditions and the enduring resilience of the Sherpa people, to the sacred sites consecrated by Guru Rinpoche himself, we felt a profound sense of reverence for the land and its inhabitants.

But it was not just the external landscape that captivated us—it was also the internal journey of self-discovery and personal growth that unfolded with each passing day. From the physical challenges of navigating treacherous topography to the moments of quiet contemplation by the shores of Tsho-Rolpa Lake, we found ourselves tested and transformed in ways we had never imagined.

Yet, amidst the trials and tribulations, there was also the unshakable bond of friendship that sustained us—a shared sense of purpose and adventure that united us as fellow travelers on the remarkable journey. Whether huddled around a fire in a cozy tea house or braving the elements together on the trail, we found strength in each other's presence and the knowledge that we were not alone in our quest.

As we descended back towards civilization, our hearts heavy with the bittersweet realization that our adventure was coming to an end, we carried with us memories that would last a lifetime. From the ethereal beauty of the snow-capped peaks to the warm embrace of the local villagers, each experience left an indelible mark on our souls, reminding us of the profound interconnectedness of all living things.

In the end, our trek through the Rolwaling Valley was not just a physical journey—it was a spiritual odyssey that touched the deepest recesses of our being. It was a tribute to the power of nature to inspire, challenge, and transform us, leaving us forever changed and infinitely grateful for the opportunity to explore the wonders of the Himalayas.

Shey Phoksundo Trek

Dolpa rises in solitary grandeur from the northern extremity of the sea of mountains in western Nepal and maintains a far more impressive and commanding individuality than any other place within the limits of Nepal having a region of free mountains where the peaks are laden with fresh snow, and the wild Phoksundo Lake emerges as a sacred place among the followers of Buddhism.

Finally, my friend John and I made it to one of the major national parks of Nepal, Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa. It is one of the iconic mountain parks in the world, situated at an elevation of 3660 m.

The travel story begins like this: during the last week of the Nepali Calendar 2079 BS, my school friend John asked me to go trekking. After agreeing on the destination, we decided to visit Shey Phoksundo National Park, located in the remote wilderness of Dolpa. We met after 20-21 years, and it was a whole new perspective to recall our school days. He is one of my great friends who has traveled to most of the places in Nepal so far. He is an environmentalist by education and cares for nature in so many ways.

We checked out the itinerary for the Shey Phoksundo Trail and found out that it can be completed in 5 or 6 days. We met on Friday, 2079/12/24, before we embarked on the trek to discuss supplies and other details. Unfortunately, we noticed that the ticket we had booked a few days ago was for a night bus, which was not what we wanted. In a hurry, we went to the counter to resolve the issue.

DAY 1

On a Saturday morning, we set off for Nepalgunj, a journey that usually takes almost 14 hours from Kathmandu. Long-distance bus travel requires patience, as 14 hours is no small feat. During our journey, we had a great time reminiscing about our school days. I informed my friend John that I had recently met some of our school friends at a wedding of our friend a few months ago. We made stops at various points along the way for tea breaks and meals.

Upon reaching Nepalgunj, we received assistance from the driver of the Jumbo Hiace, and his friend took us to a newly built hotel called New Sagarmatha Hotel and Lodge near Nepalgunj Airport. We chosed that hotel so that we could catch a mountain flight to Dolpa the next morning. After our conversation  with the owner and a few other people at the hotel, we learned that securing a flight was challenging as most of the tickets had already been booked. This time of year, many people see traveling to Dolpa, and there was currently only one flight available. We discovered that booking should ideally be done a week or two in advance. Exhausted from our dinner and the long hours in the Jumbo Hiace, we retired to bed.

DAY 2

Early on Sunday morning, around 5:30 AM, the two of us, accompanied by the hotel owner, headed to the airport in hopes of getting tickets by chance. Unfortunately, we were unable to secure tickets as the airplane was already filled with other supplies, such as meat, which apparently generated more revenue than ticket sales. We even inquired about available seats, but they informed us that there were none for that day. We did, however, take the phone number of the helpful hotel owner and decided to proceed by bus. He assisted us in booking bus tickets and even managed to secure a discount using his name.

After acquiring our bus tickets to Tallo Bagar, we waited for the bus to arrive. During this time, we enjoyed our first cup of tea in Nepalgunj, which we savored on the side of the road. The tea was delicious with a hint of masala. Having finished our tea, we waited a few more minutes until the bus arrived. To our surprise, the hotel owner appeared on the highway with four other individuals, including two young ladies and their parents. He informed us that the two young ladies had missed their flight but were also heading to Shey Phoksundo National Park. As I looked closely at the ladies, I realized that one of them had been my student. I was astonished and couldn't believe it! I exclaimed, 'Do you remember me?' to which she replied, 'Yes.' Just as we exchanged these words, the bus arrived, and we all boarded, commencing our journey to Tallo Bagar.

After a few minutes on the bus, we made a stop at Kohalpur Bus Park to pick up additional passengers. Two other men joined us on the bus, and we discovered that they, too, were traveling to Dolpa for the Shey Phoksundo Trekking. We engaged in conversation with them for a few minutes before continuing our journey. As the bus was waiting, the two of us decided to have another cup of tea at a tea shop, but unfortunately, it turned out to be overly sweet for my liking. Despite that, I consumed it all. With our tea break complete, the bus resumed its journey towards our destination.

We made phone calls to our homes before the bus departed for Surkhet. In order to reach Tallo Bagar in western Nepal, we had to pass through Surkhet. During our journey, we encountered a checkpoint, which was part of Bardia National Park. We spent about 15-20 minutes at the checkpoint before continuing towards Surkhet. I had visited Surkhet a few years ago and recalled that the highway was congested at various points in the mountains. However, on this trip, the weather was perfect, allowing us to witness the Churia ranges, formed by the collision of two tectonic plates. The mountain ranges adorned with trees were a spectacular sight, a lush green blanket that made me ponder how long it took for the land to become so fertile for the growth of trees and bushes. It likely took millions of years, with nature flourishing in a balanced manner throughout history. The view of the mountains covered in lush greenery was awe-inspiring.

After approximately four hours, we arrived at Chhinchu, Surkhet, and took another highway that led to Rukum West. We stopped for lunch around 12:00 PM, although I couldn't recall the exact location. However, I do remember that the Bheri River, with its turquoise color, flowed alongside the highway. As we enjoy sampling the local cuisine of western Nepal, we dined at a local shop that served organic food. In the meantime, we had the opportunity to taste a bowl of fresh fish, caught from the Bheri River. It was incredibly delicious, and the pickles accompanying the meal were unforgettable. The taste was exceptional. Normally, I avoid consuming meat products while traveling, as I struggle to digest them and sometimes they are not cooked properly. However, savoring that delicately cooked fish was an absolute delight.

After our satisfying lunch, we decided to go near the Bheri River to admire its turquoise beauty. Unfortunately, we heard the bus horn, indicating that it was time to return. Nonetheless, the mesmerizing turquoise color of the river left a lasting impression. Everyone falls in love with the color of the Bheri River at first glance. With that captivating sight in our hearts, we continued our journey to Tallo Bagar without any stops. As we peered through the window, we observed the underprivileged state of western Nepal, prompting the government to undertake numerous development projects to uplift the villages in the region. One striking aspect we noticed was the remarkably fresh air and the picturesque rural villages, making western Nepal a perfect destination for travelers who are willing to dedicate time to explore the area. To truly know western Nepal, its people, landscapes, and culture, one needs at least a week or more. It offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

An interesting architectural feature we observed in the houses was the absence of stairs. Instead, they constructed makeshift staircases using tree branches, positioning them at a slant in relation to the entrance of their homes on the first floor. In some houses, the stairs were located on the exterior of the building. This unique tradition or cultural practice of building staircases from tree branches was truly remarkable.

Another intriguing aspect we noticed was the unique architecture of the houses. The ground floor was typically designated for domestic animals, while people reside on the second and third floors. What caught our attention was the fact that the locals do not speak Nepali but rather their own distinct language, which was quite different. During our journey, we made stops for tea breaks, which were essential moments to make phone calls home and also offered panoramic views of the surroundings. All we could see were majestic mountains stretching as far as the eye could see. After approximately 12 hours, we finally arrived at Tallo Bagar. It was already dark, and due to the absence of electricity, we couldn't see anything at all. The houses were illuminated by solar-powered inverter lights. The driver instructed us to stay in a homestay where he was also staying. Although the accommodations were not what we had expected, being open to new experiences, we simply needed a good night's sleep. We placed our backpacks in the room on the first floor, although navigating the house with its unconventional staircase was a bit challenging in the absence of light. In total, there were six of us comprising the Shey Phoksundo National Park group. John and I had encountered four other trekkers along the way. The girls stayed in the adjacent room while the four of us shared one room.

Later, I stepped out of the room to wash my hands, face, and legs, as there was no designated shower area. It was then that I struck up a conversation with the two men we had met on the bus in Kohalpur. Curiosity prompted me to ask, "Where are you from?" One of them hailed from Thamel, while the other was from Nepalgunj. They shared their previous trekking experiences, including Thorang La Pass, the Annapurna Circuit Trail, and Badi Malika which are renowned for their outdoor adventures in Nepal. As our conversation unfolded, one of them mentioned the name of their colleague who frequently treks across the country. Coincidentally, he mentioned the name of my close friend, whom I often go hiking with. I couldn't believe it—how had such a connection been made? That unexpected encounter made us realize that the world is indeed small, and everyone is somehow interconnected. I excitedly shared that unbelievable coincidence with my friend, John. Not only had we met two ladies, one of whom was my former student, but we also encountered two men who were friends of my friend. After enjoying our dinner, we retired for the night.

DAY 3

On the third day of our journey, we woke up early in the morning, packed our backpacks, and prepared for another 6-7 hours of off-road adventure. During our bus ride from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, we had met a lady who gave us the phone number of her brother, who drives a jeep from Tallo Bagar to Dunai. We called that number in the morning, and he came to pick us up at Tallo Bagar. Initially, we considered reserving the entire jeep, but it was expensive, so we opted to pay per person. Around 7:00 AM, we set off for Suligad, the starting point of the Shey Phoksundo Trek.

The newly constructed road provided a thrilling off-road experience, but it also posed risks to our lives. The road hugged the river corridor, making it perilous. However, that route offered us a vivid glimpse of western Nepal. The villages exuded a rustic charm, and we hoped that the condition of the road would improve in the coming years. After a few hours of jeep ride, we made a stop to witness Silajit, a naturally occurring ayurvedic medicine found in the mountains. It is formed between two large rocks and oozes out as a black semi-liquid when they press against each other. Silajit possesses unique properties—it is malleable and ductile, allowing it to be shaped into thin sheets or threads. When snapped, it breaks into pieces. Another interesting fact about Silajit is that adding a small pinch of it turns milk completely black. Silajit holds many medicinal significances, such as enhancing sexual power and alleviating body pain.

The driver shared his knowledge about Yarshagumba, another valuable medicinal herb. It is one of the most expensive herbs in the world, and people from Dolpa and other regions venture into the Himalayas during the monsoon season to collect it. Once the permit is granted, entire families, including children above 14-16 years old, leave their homes to gather Yarshagumba. For many, it has become their source of income, with some earning up to 5-6 lakhs in one season, while others return empty-handed. The driver also mentioned the unfortunate reality that people die from altitude sickness while searching for Yarshagumba in the mountains. During our conversation, the driver's phone rang—it was a call from a tea house informing him that lunch was ready. He suggested that we try the fish caught that morning from the river, and we agreed. We reached Khadang, Tripurasundari, where we enjoyed a lunch consisting of fish and local vegetables. Without wasting time, we continued our journey towards Suligad, as we still had to hike for about 5 hours to reach Chhepka, our first camping spot. As a final stop, we took a tea break in Tripurasundari, a small valley surrounded by mountains. It resembled a small marketplace where locals come to purchase their household goods. At the top of the mountain stood the Tripurasundari Temple, and the driver suggested us to visit the temple, assuring us that it would only take 45 minutes to reach. However, we decided it would be better to proceed to Suligad, where we had to embark on a 5-hour hike to reach Chhepka. Finally, around 2:00 PM, we arrived at the Suligad checkpoint.

After paying the driver and thanking him for his assistance, we began our hike from Suligad to Chhepka around 2:15 PM. Before starting, I made a phone call to my brother to let him know that we had safely arrived in Suligad and were about to begin the 5-hour hike to Chhepka. Suligad is the place where two rivers converge to form a larger river. I wasn't certain about the local names of the rivers, but one might be Mathlo Bheri, while the other could be the Shey Phoksundo River. Suligad is named after the Nepal Army, which oversees the Shey Phoksundo National Park. We crossed a suspension bridge and continued on the trail towards Chhepka. Running out of water, we refilled our bottles from the Shey Phoksundo River and added a few drops of chlorine to purify it. Four of our trail friends had already advanced ahead. After a few minutes, we reached the Shey Phoksundo National Park office, where we obtained permits for Rs 100 each. For Nepalese citizens, the fee is only Rs 100, but for visitors from other countries, the price would be higher. We then proceeded up the trail and soon caught up with our waiting trail friends. Together, we continued our hike, observing our surroundings along the way.

We stopped for a tea break at one of the tea houses, where a young lady, who appeared to be around 19-20 years old, served us exquisite Masala tea popularly known as Muna Chiya among the locals. It was sad to think that at such a young age, she was already married and responsible for her family. We noticed that child marriage is prevalent in western Nepal, where young boys and girls aged 14-16 often run away. Unfortunately, they often have limited understanding of love and attraction. They may run away with one person initially and later run away with someone else when they reach adolescence.

After our tea break, we continued our ascent. Gradually, I started feeling pain in my left leg, but I pushed through without letting it hinder my progress. After walking for another couple of hours or so, the pain became intolerable, and I fell behind on the trail. However, with the support of John and our trail friends, I managed to keep going. After a strenuous 5-hour walk, we finally arrived at Chhepka around 7:00 PM. It was already dark, and unfortunately, there was no electricity available. With our phones about to die, we searched for tea houses where we could charge them. However, as the first tea house which had no lights and the second one we found, had solar-powered lights, but do not charge our phones, we decided to stay at the second tea house anyway since it had lights.

Due to the pain in my leg, I opted to rest while John and the others settled in. We gathered in the dining room, where a fire provided warmth. I sat near the fire, trying to alleviate the discomfort in my leg. We had tea, hot water, and engaged in conversations with fellow trekkers. I grew increasingly sleepy and almost fell asleep in the dining room. After about an hour of discussion, we had dinner and made phone calls to our families using the landline phone since there was no mobile network. Each call cost Rs 100, but despite the expense, we wanted to connect with our loved ones. That night, we had the opportunity to taste yak meat, as the tea house owner recommended it. The meat had a unique flavor. After the meal, we spent some time in the dining room, discussing our plans for the next day's hike. The owner's wife and the young lady at the tea house were kind enough to provide us with detailed information about the trails ahead. Their guidance and insights were valuable for our trekking plans. Before retiring for the night, I applied a pain reliever to my leg to alleviate the discomfort. Exhausted from the day's hike, I quickly fell into a deep and restful sleep, ready to continue our trek the next day.

DAY 4

On Monday morning, we woke up bright and early at 6:00 AM. I carefully checked my leg to assess if I could walk without much pain. Unfortunately, as I descended the stairs, I still felt discomfort in my knee. It seemed like a knee problem specifically while walking downhill. I remained hopeful that with some rest and time, it would improve within a day or two.

After completing our morning routines, we enjoyed a refreshing cup of tea along with some cookies. We decided not to have breakfast at the tea house since we had brought our own food supplies in our backpacks. Before setting off on our trek, we made phone calls to our loved ones back home using the landline phone at the tea house. Once the bills were settled, we embarked on our journey towards Rinche, which was approximately a 4-hour hike from Chhepka.

As we continued our hike, our lady trail friends, my student and her friend, had already departed a few minutes earlier and were now out of sight, deep into the trail. Two of our other trail companions also moved ahead, leaving John and me behind. John took his time to capture some photographs of the breathtaking surroundings while I continued walking. I noticed that our lady friends had mistakenly taken a different route, as I could see them lower down the mountain. I called out to them and directed them to take our trail. Even John had unintentionally taken the wrong path. Eventually, all three of them managed to find the correct trail, and John joined me once again. The trail itself offered a unique and unforgettable experience. It was a journey of getting lost and then finding our way back, adding to the adventure.

 As we descended further along the trail, the Shey Phoksundo river flowed gracefully, displaying its mesmerizing turquoise color. Every aspect of the environment felt surreal to us. Along the way, we encountered a Buddhist stupa dedicated to Thinley, a Nepali actor who played a significant role in the French movie "Caravan." The film depicted the trade relationship between Dolpa in Nepal and Tibet. It showcased the Sherpas of Dolpa undertaking perilous journeys along narrow paths in the Himalayas to exchange goods such as barley, wheat, and other supplies for Himalayan salt. "Caravan" was an exceptional movie that shed light on the challenges and beauty of the region. John and I took a photo next to the Thinley Stupa, which had a signboard mentioning that Thinley had tragically died falling from a cliff with his horse. Undeterred by the challenges, we continued our hike, eager to explore more of the trail ahead.

After crossing one of the wooden bridges, we reached the other side of the mountain, where a steep trail was carved along the edge of the mountain. As we continued, we encountered a large rock about 20-30 feet high, which served as a shelter for Sherpas. We took some photos and continued on our way. Soon, we came across another bridge. Given my difficulty in walking, John didn't leave me behind. The pain in my leg was becoming unbearable, but I managed to proceed slowly and cautiously. During our hike, we encountered a few Sherpas accompanied by their donkeys. They asked us if we had seen a donkey along the way. Although we weren't entirely certain, we replied, "We saw one not too far ahead." They expressed their gratitude and continued on their journey. As we progressed further, we encountered a steep trail in the alpine zone. Walking downhill became a significant challenge for me, and I struggled to navigate the trail. John moved ahead, while I fell behind. I took a brief pause, allowing donkeys and local people who were coming from behind to pass by before I resumed my slow descent.

After taking a rest and receiving some physiotherapy from our trail friend, I felt slightly better. He guided me to lie down and close my eyes, instructing me to take slow breaths. Following his guidance, I took a few minutes to rest. To replenish my energy, I mixed an electrolyte packet with water and drank it. I shared half of the electrolyte with my trail friend, who also had a mild leg pain. We hoped that the electrolyte water would help restore balance to our bodies.

Despite waiting for our lady friends for a while, they didn't appear, so the four of us decided to continue walking up the trail, expecting to meet them along the way. John and other two trail friends kindly didn't leave me behind, and we proceeded together. Eventually, we encountered a fork in the road and chosed the straight path, disregarding the one that led to a small village across a wooden bridge down the river. On the other side of the mountain, we could only spot a few stone houses. Anticipating another bridge ahead, we crossed a suspension bridge and noticed a trail marker indicating that we had finally arrived at Rinche, where we had planned to have our meal in the morning. We crossed the bridge and entered one of the tea houses, which resembled a hut. (It's worth noting that John lost his walking stick while crossing the bridge.) Upon reaching Rinche, it was 11:00 AM, and we approached the lady owner of a tea house, requesting her to prepare a meal for the six of us. We mentioned that our two lady friends would be joining us shortly. The owner informed us that it would take about 30 minutes to prepare the meal, to which we replied, "That's okay, we can wait." She kindly served us hot water while she began cooking. Spotting a landline phone, we took the opportunity to make phone calls to our homes. Afterwards, we asked the owner to charge our phones. Unfortunately, my phone had already switched off earlier in the morning, causing me to miss capturing many beautiful sceneries along the trail. However, I managed to take photos and videos using my old phone.

After enjoying the hot water, we stepped out of the hut and basked in the sunlight for a while. While sunbathing, our lady friends arrived. We invited them to join us for the meal, and one of them handed me a pain reliever pad. Grateful for the gesture, I immediately applied it to my leg, expressing my thanks and expressing hope that my leg would feel better soon. The four of us proceeded to have our meal together. Before leaving, one of our lady friends asked for my phone number, revealing that they had been lost in the forest previously. I shared my number with her, assuring them that if anything happened, they could call me at that number. Since their food wasn't ready yet, we couldn't wait for them and departed for Ringmo, which was approximately 4 hours away from Rinche.

Despite the pain in my leg, we continued walking slowly. Along the trail, we encountered a few Sherpas and exchanged greetings with them by saying Namaste. We passed by a school and arrived at another fork in the road. Mistakenly, we chosed the straight path that led to a different village, but we kept walking regardless. Eventually, we realized that it wasn't the correct trail to Ringmo. Regrettably, my phone had no charge, so I couldn't rely on it for navigation. None of my friends had an offline map either. We decided to take a brief rest on the side of the trail, lying down under the shade of pine trees and appreciating the natural surroundings. After a few minutes, we resumed our hike.

Knowing that we had taken the wrong trail, we speculated that the actual path to Ringmo might be long and demanding. Passing by a stone Buddhist stupa on the mountainside, we reached a small village where there were a few houses and a newly constructed tea house. We approached the people working in the house and asked them to guide us towards Ringmo. We then took another break, requesting the owner of the house to prepare tea for us. While waiting for the tea, we kept an eye on the trail behind us, hoping to spot our lady friends. However, they hadn't caught up with us yet. Eventually, our tea arrived, and the generous locals even shared some Himalayan boiled potatoes with us. The combination of the potatoes, chili, and salt was incredibly delicious. After paying the bills, we followed the path shown to us. Given the pain in my leg, I struggled to climb the steep trail, which proved to be one of the most challenging sections of the day. I had to take multiple breaks along the way. When we reached the middle of the steep trail, which appeared to be about 1000 feet high and covered in bushes and pine trees, we initially took a path that led to dead ends. After descending a few meters, we realized our mistake and corrected our course by taking the right path.

Feeling depleted of energy, we decided to have our snacks right in the middle of the cliff. It turned out to be one of the most memorable snack breaks of our trek. There are certain experiences on the trail that remain etched in our memories forever. Despite the strong gusts of wind blowing at high speeds, we protected our heads and ears with caps and continued enjoying our food as if it were our last meal. In the meantime, we kept looking back on the trail, hoping to spot our lady friends. 

Once we finished our snacks, we resumed our slow ascent. Upon reaching the top of the mountain, we felt a surge of happiness knowing that we wouldn't have to climb any further. The breathtaking views from the mountaintop offered a panorama of layered mountains, and we took some pictures to capture the moment. As we walked, we had hoped to catch a glimpse of Shey Phoksundo Lake together, so we sang our National Anthem and continued walking side by side. However, our view of the lake was obstructed by the pine-speckled mountain. Undeterred, we continued along the trail.

As darkness began to set in, we picked up our pace with the aim of reaching Ringmo. One of our friends, who also experienced leg pain, fell behind on the trail. We decided to wait for him on the suspension bridge that connected Ringmo on the other side of the mountain. While waiting, we encountered a young local boy on the bridge who recommended a tea house in Ringmo that had all the amenities we desired, including lights, WiFi, and cozy bedrooms. After a phone call, the owner of the tea house came to the suspension bridge to guide us to the tea house. John went ahead with the owner, while the two of us waited for our friend who was lagging behind. Eventually, we all made it to the tea house. Upon arrival, we immediately plugged in our phones to charge. We then proceeded to clean up and freshen up before gathering in the dining room, where we enjoyed hot water and yak tea.

While in the dining room, we made phone calls to our families, informing them that we had safely reached Ringmo and planned to explore the lake and viewpoints the next morning. As we were engrossed in conversation, my phone suddenly rang—it was our lady friends. They had also arrived in Ringmo and informed us that they were camping near the lakeside teahouse. We proceeded to have our dinner and spent about an hour in the dining room, engaging in lively discussions about snow leopards. Since Dolpa is known as the land of snow leopards, it had always been one of my wildest dreams to set foot in Dolpa. The conversation became even more captivating when we discovered that the owner of the tea house had worked as a volunteer in a snow leopard conservation program.Feeling exhausted from the 10-12 hours of hiking in the Himalayas, we finally decided to call it a night and went to bed.

DAY 5

As the morning sun cast its light on the Himalayas, I peered out of my window and felt the cold breeze blowing. Knowing that venturing outside in such weather wouldn't be ideal; I packed my backpack and headed to the dining room for some hot water. Returning to my room, I enjoyed some cookies along with the warm water. Meanwhile, John and my two other friends also prepared themselves for the hike. The lake was just a few minutes away from our campsite, so we decided not to carry water bottles or snacks. Considering my leg pain, I only took my trekking stick for support. The four of us set off towards the lake, but after a few minutes of walking, my pain intensified, causing me great concern. I silently questioned how I would manage to make it back to Chhepka later that day. Despite the pain, I persevered and continued walking.

Eventually, we reached the magnificent lake, surrounded by breathtaking scenery. We looked around for a way to reach the shore.  Other fellow trekkers advised us to hike to the viewpoint for a magnificent panoramic view of the lake. Without wasting any time, we followed the path along the cliff's edge. As we walked, it felt like we were in a heavenly realm, experiencing some of the most memorable moments of our lives. The alpine zone boasted rugged, wind-sculpted dwarf pines, resembling nature's own bonsai trees. We tasted the beauty of one of the world's most heavenly places for the first time.

Reaching the viewpoint, known as Phoksundo Height I, was quite challenging, and my friends contemplated turning back. However, I encouraged them not to give up on our journey. I assured them that we would definitely make it, no matter what. I even suggested going further to Phoksundo Height II. After  2.5 hours of walking, we finally reached Phoksundo Height I. Overwhelmed with joy, we embraced each other and savored the best moments of our trek. From that vantage point, we could see the other end of the lake as well. Due to the pain in my leg, I took some time to rest and then captured some of the most stunning pictures I could frame. The sunlight passing through the lake transformed its color into a mesmerizing turquoise blue, one of the most exquisite hues. Since there were other trekkers already present, we shared our excitement and joy with them. After bidding farewell to the trekkers who were heading to Rara Lake, the largest lake in the Himalayas of Nepal, we continued to savor the incredible views from the viewpoint. We spent some time in silence, appreciating the majestic surroundings. After about 30 to 45 minutes, we decided to descend from Phoksundo Height I since we hadn't brought any water or food with us.

© One of Our Trail Friends

As we started descending the trail, my pain became increasingly intense, reaching a point where it was unbearable. John and our other friend walked ahead, while I and my remaining friend proceeded slowly. Eventually, we all reconvened and enjoyed our time by the lake's shore. The water was frigid, and we could only tolerate a few seconds in it. We then made our way back to the tea house where we planned to have lunch.

On our return, we encountered our lady friends who were heading towards the lake’s shore. I warned them about the strong winds in the mountains and suggested they exercise caution. They informed us that they had decided to stay in Ringmo for another night. I wished them good luck and told them to enjoy their time. We continued our journey back to the tea house, reluctantly leaving behind the ancient monastery that was over 800 years old and situated on the other side of the lake.

After enjoying our lunch and settling the bills, the four of us embarked on the mountain trail, which involved climbing uphill on a newly constructed path. Along the way, I couldn't help but be captivated by the breathtaking surroundings of Ringmo, with its Himalayan backdrop and the glistening blue waters of Shey Phoksundo Lake. Taking one last look, I bid farewell to Shey Phoksundo.

As we continued our walk, I started experiencing a mild headache, likely due to the altitude and the gusts of wind we encountered. We reached an elevation of 3,900 meters before beginning our descent. Coming downhill proved to be quite challenging for me, but I persevered, supported by my trail friend who faced similar difficulties. We took intermittent rests at various points, while John and our other friend patiently waited for us, never leaving us behind.

Once we descended the steep mountainside, we continued along the trail. Eventually, we arrived at a suspension bridge, which we crossed, leading us to a nearby tea house. We took a well-deserved rest and enjoyed a tea break, accompanied by delicious hot boiled potatoes sprinkled with salt again. Soon, a group of children arrived at the tea house, and I happily shared some chocolate bars from my backpack, urging them to distribute them among their friends. I always find joy in sharing whatever I have with children or fellow trekkers.

After our tea break, we resumed our journey, maintaining a slow yet steady pace, with the goal of reaching Chhepka before nightfall. Following the trail along the riverside and through the forest, we eventually reached Rinche, where we had enjoyed our lunch the previous day. John and our other friend had been waiting for the two of us there for about 15 to 20 minutes, displaying their unwavering companionship and support.  After reaching Chhepka, I took out a bag of beaten rice from my backpack and handed it to the lady owner, relieving myself of some weight. We bid her farewell, filled our water bottles, and set off once again, this time traversing the forest trail. The alpine forest was untamed and wild, and we were conscious of the need to reach Chhepka before it got too late. As we made our way through the forest trail, darkness began to descend. However, we remained united as a group, sticking together. Under the starry night sky, we pressed on, with me leading the way using our headlights to navigate. We picked up our pace, eager to reach our destination.

At one point in the forest, we encountered an unexpected sight—a black-colored yak appeared seemingly out of nowhere. Its shadow cast a formidable figure, making us feel a surge of fear. With heightened patience and vigilance, we continued our journey, braving the encounter.

Finally, around 8:30 pm, we arrived at Chhepka. Exhausted but relieved, we sought out the same tea house where we had previously stayed. Unfortunately, the cozy and pleasant room we had enjoyed before was already occupied by other trekkers heading towards Shey Phoksundo Lake. Instead, we were allocated another house owned by the same owner. However, that particular room had no lights whatsoever. Since all we desired was a good night's sleep, we decided to make do with the dimly lit accommodation. After settling in our room, changing clothes, and freshening up, we made our way to the neighboring house where the dining room was located. We grabbed some water and began discussing our trekking experiences. There were other trekkers present, who appeared older than us, and they were curious to know about the trails. I assured them that if they could manage to reach Rinche, they would find it relatively easier to continue on to Shey Phoksundo. I explained that the challenging part would be the approximately 4-hour non-stop walk to Rinche.

Our conversation then veered into various topics, including Silajit, Yarshagumba (Caterpillar fungus), snow leopards, and mad honey. We inquired with the tea house owner if they had mad honey available for purchase, but unfortunately, they didn't have it, citing both its scarcity and high cost. However, we managed to acquire a few grams of Silajit from the owner, as John decided to buy it for Rs 500. I personally decided not to purchase any. Following our dinner, we retired for the night, occasionally making phone calls to our loved ones in between our discussions. 

DAY 6

In the morning, we woke up promptly at 6:30 AM with the intention of reaching Juphal Airport, Dolpa on time. Without wasting any time, we skipped breakfast and embarked on a long walk to Suligad, the starting point of Shey Phoksundo National Park. Initially, my leg pain had subsided as we left the tea house, but the ups and downs of the trail caused it to resurface, along with my trail friend experiencing the same discomfort. We fell behind on the trail, struggling to keep up with the others.

After walking for about 2 and half hours, we decided to stop by Shey Phoksundo River for a shower. Despite the water being incredibly cold, my trail friend and I rinsed our heads, while John took a dive into the river. Feeling refreshed, we resumed our journey along the trail. However, the two of us continued to struggle with walking. Around 11:30 AM, we took a tea break at the same tea house we had visited before heading to Chhepka. There were children around us, and my trail friend kindly shared biscuits with them. Unfortunately, I had run out of chocolates, but I would have loved to share them to bring a smile to their faces. The children appeared thin and were living a challenging life in such a remote place.

After paying the bill and leaving a tip, we continued walking for about an hour before stopping at a tea house for lunch. We noticed that the phone network had started working, so I made a phone call to my home. Meanwhile, John attempted to contact the owner of New Sagarmatha Hotel and Lodge to book flight tickets for us. Finally, he managed to make the call and provided our names, although we were aware that it wasn't certain as we hadn't paid for the tickets yet. We knew we had to reach Juphal Airport as quickly as possible. Following our lunch, we resumed our walk back to the Suligad Checkpoint.

After reaching Suligad at 2:35 PM, we had initially planned to find a jeep to take us to Juphal Airport. John made numerous phone calls to the jeep driver whose number was given to us by the tea house owner where we had lunch, but unfortunately, the driver didn't answer the calls. We even sought assistance from the checkpoint armies, as we didn't want to be stranded there. Eventually, we decided to change our plan and walk to Dunai, the capital city of Dolpa, on foot.

Around an hour or so later, at 4:00 PM, we reached Dunai. Since we couldn't find a jeep to Juphal, we explored the area, which was a small village located near the river with narrow roads in the market area. After waiting for about half an hour, we stopped at a tea shop to have tea. Surprisingly, a jeep arrived, and to our surprise, the driver was the same person whom John had been trying to reach on the phone. He joined us for tea, and we departed for Juphal.

By the time we reached Juphal, it was already 5:30 PM, and the Airport office was closed. We decided to stay at a nearby hotel that had different domestic airline counters, hoping to purchase tickets in the morning. We discovered that there were three remaining seats on the airplane, but we weren't entirely certain. This uncertainty caused us stress, and we made several phone calls to different people to ensure that we could secure tickets for all four of us.

In the late evening, we visited the sister of one of our trail friends, who lived near the airport. We even had a conversation with the Airport Incharge while having a meal, asking for four seats if available. However, he informed us that there were only three seats left, and if any passenger didn't show up, they would give the seat to us. We were stressed because the available three seats could potentially create a dilemma among us. We were four individuals, but there were only three seats available. It was a challenging situation to navigate. After dinner, we discussed the ticket situation, but unfortunately, we couldn't reach a conclusion. The uncertainty and stress loomed over us as we prepared for the night.

DAY 7

On the New Year's Day, John and I woke up early and went about our morning routines. We packed our backpacks, aware that the flights to Kathmandu only operate in the morning due to high-velocity winds. In a rush, we made our way to the main entrance of the airport, where I noticed a man who was making a list of passengers. I approached him to inquire about available seats, and he confirmed that there were three seats remaining. I quickly provided our names and requested to include the names of my two trail friends who arrived slightly later. However, as all the passengers arrived, it turned out that there was no available seat for one of our trail friends. In the end, he had to stay behind for a day, creating an awkward situation where we couldn't even exchange greetings of "Happy New Year 2080" with him.

At 7:15 AM, the three of us boarded the flight to Nepalgunj. Upon arriving, we booked tickets for our onward journey to Kathmandu and then stopped at a tea shop to have a cup of tea. Since one of our trail friends lived in Nepalgunj, we asked him to explore the city. After enjoying our tea, he bid us farewell and headed home, instructing us to meet him later at the Bageshwori Temple Gate.

We made our way to the hotel where we had previously stayed upon arriving in Nepalgunj. After checking in and freshening up, we had another cup of tea. It was still early for lunch, so we decided to explore Nepalgunj first. John and I left the hotel and took an electric Tempo to reach the Bageshwori Temple Gate, which was a few kilometers away. We waited there for our friend, and when he arrived, we explored different areas of Nepalgunj together. We visited various temples and also explored the Muslim neighborhood of the city. Eventually, we bid our friend farewell, wishing each other a Happy New Year, and made our way back to the hotel.

After having lunch, we headed to the airport for our flight to Kathmandu. However, our flight was delayed, and we ended up being stranded at the airport for about an hour. Eventually, we boarded the flight and made our way to Kathmandu, concluding our adventurous journey.

Upon arriving in Kathmandu, we opted to take a local bus for our onward journeys. John headed to his home, and we exchanged blessings, promising to stay in touch. I then waited for my brother, who came to pick me up from Satdobato. Finally, after seven days of wilderness and adventure, I arrived home. It was a comforting feeling to be back in familiar surroundings.

Summary

Our travel took us on a captivating journey through the beautiful landscapes of western Nepal. From the moment we set off on the trek, we were immersed in the awe-inspiring scenery, the challenges of the trail, and the camaraderie among our group. We were astonished by the stunning Shey Phoksundo Lake and its surroundings with vivid detail, painting a picture of a true natural wonder. Our determination to reach the viewpoints, despite physical pain, showcased  our adventurous spirit and unwavering commitment to experiencing the best of the trek. The difficulties we encountered, such as the pain in our leg, the uncertainty of transportation, and the stress of securing airplane tickets, added a sense of realism and challenge to the adventure. Despite those obstacles, our determination and resilience shone through as we pressed on to find solutions.

The story concluded with a mix of emotions as one of our trail friends was unable to secure a seat on the flight, leading to a somewhat strained farewell. However, the journey ended on a positive note as we reunited with our families, reflecting on the transformative experience we'd had.

Overall, our story beautifully captures the essence of trekking in the Himalayas, highlighting the breathtaking scenery, the bonds formed with fellow trekkers, and the personal growth that comes from pushing beyond our limits. It's a tale of adventure, resilience, and the beauty of nature that leaves all inspired to embark on their own journey.

BONUS PHOTOS OF THE SPT

© One of Our Trail Friends

© One of Trail Friends

© John

© One of our Trail Friends

© One of Our Trail Friends

© One of The Trekkers