Shey Phoksundo Trek

Dolpa rises in solitary grandeur from the northern extremity of the sea of mountains in western Nepal and maintains a far more impressive and commanding individuality than any other place within the limits of Nepal having a region of free mountains where the peaks are laden with fresh snow, and the wild Phoksundo Lake emerges as a sacred place among the followers of Buddhism.

Finally, my friend John and I made it to one of the major national parks of Nepal, Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa. It is one of the iconic mountain parks in the world, situated at an elevation of 3660 m.

The travel story begins like this: during the last week of the Nepali Calendar 2079 BS, my school friend John asked me to go trekking. After agreeing on the destination, we decided to visit Shey Phoksundo National Park, located in the remote wilderness of Dolpa. We met after 20-21 years, and it was a whole new perspective to recall our school days. He is one of my great friends who has traveled to most of the places in Nepal so far. He is an environmentalist by education and cares for nature in so many ways.

We checked out the itinerary for the Shey Phoksundo Trail and found out that it can be completed in 5 or 6 days. We met on Friday, 2079/12/24, before we embarked on the trek to discuss supplies and other details. Unfortunately, we noticed that the ticket we had booked a few days ago was for a night bus, which was not what we wanted. In a hurry, we went to the counter to resolve the issue.

DAY 1

On a Saturday morning, we set off for Nepalgunj, a journey that usually takes almost 14 hours from Kathmandu. Long-distance bus travel requires patience, as 14 hours is no small feat. During our journey, we had a great time reminiscing about our school days. I informed my friend John that I had recently met some of our school friends at a wedding of our friend a few months ago. We made stops at various points along the way for tea breaks and meals.

Upon reaching Nepalgunj, we received assistance from the driver of the Jumbo Hiace, and his friend took us to a newly built hotel called New Sagarmatha Hotel and Lodge near Nepalgunj Airport. We chosed that hotel so that we could catch a mountain flight to Dolpa the next morning. After our conversation  with the owner and a few other people at the hotel, we learned that securing a flight was challenging as most of the tickets had already been booked. This time of year, many people see traveling to Dolpa, and there was currently only one flight available. We discovered that booking should ideally be done a week or two in advance. Exhausted from our dinner and the long hours in the Jumbo Hiace, we retired to bed.

DAY 2

Early on Sunday morning, around 5:30 AM, the two of us, accompanied by the hotel owner, headed to the airport in hopes of getting tickets by chance. Unfortunately, we were unable to secure tickets as the airplane was already filled with other supplies, such as meat, which apparently generated more revenue than ticket sales. We even inquired about available seats, but they informed us that there were none for that day. We did, however, take the phone number of the helpful hotel owner and decided to proceed by bus. He assisted us in booking bus tickets and even managed to secure a discount using his name.

After acquiring our bus tickets to Tallo Bagar, we waited for the bus to arrive. During this time, we enjoyed our first cup of tea in Nepalgunj, which we savored on the side of the road. The tea was delicious with a hint of masala. Having finished our tea, we waited a few more minutes until the bus arrived. To our surprise, the hotel owner appeared on the highway with four other individuals, including two young ladies and their parents. He informed us that the two young ladies had missed their flight but were also heading to Shey Phoksundo National Park. As I looked closely at the ladies, I realized that one of them had been my student. I was astonished and couldn't believe it! I exclaimed, 'Do you remember me?' to which she replied, 'Yes.' Just as we exchanged these words, the bus arrived, and we all boarded, commencing our journey to Tallo Bagar.

After a few minutes on the bus, we made a stop at Kohalpur Bus Park to pick up additional passengers. Two other men joined us on the bus, and we discovered that they, too, were traveling to Dolpa for the Shey Phoksundo Trekking. We engaged in conversation with them for a few minutes before continuing our journey. As the bus was waiting, the two of us decided to have another cup of tea at a tea shop, but unfortunately, it turned out to be overly sweet for my liking. Despite that, I consumed it all. With our tea break complete, the bus resumed its journey towards our destination.

We made phone calls to our homes before the bus departed for Surkhet. In order to reach Tallo Bagar in western Nepal, we had to pass through Surkhet. During our journey, we encountered a checkpoint, which was part of Bardia National Park. We spent about 15-20 minutes at the checkpoint before continuing towards Surkhet. I had visited Surkhet a few years ago and recalled that the highway was congested at various points in the mountains. However, on this trip, the weather was perfect, allowing us to witness the Churia ranges, formed by the collision of two tectonic plates. The mountain ranges adorned with trees were a spectacular sight, a lush green blanket that made me ponder how long it took for the land to become so fertile for the growth of trees and bushes. It likely took millions of years, with nature flourishing in a balanced manner throughout history. The view of the mountains covered in lush greenery was awe-inspiring.

After approximately four hours, we arrived at Chhinchu, Surkhet, and took another highway that led to Rukum West. We stopped for lunch around 12:00 PM, although I couldn't recall the exact location. However, I do remember that the Bheri River, with its turquoise color, flowed alongside the highway. As we enjoy sampling the local cuisine of western Nepal, we dined at a local shop that served organic food. In the meantime, we had the opportunity to taste a bowl of fresh fish, caught from the Bheri River. It was incredibly delicious, and the pickles accompanying the meal were unforgettable. The taste was exceptional. Normally, I avoid consuming meat products while traveling, as I struggle to digest them and sometimes they are not cooked properly. However, savoring that delicately cooked fish was an absolute delight.

After our satisfying lunch, we decided to go near the Bheri River to admire its turquoise beauty. Unfortunately, we heard the bus horn, indicating that it was time to return. Nonetheless, the mesmerizing turquoise color of the river left a lasting impression. Everyone falls in love with the color of the Bheri River at first glance. With that captivating sight in our hearts, we continued our journey to Tallo Bagar without any stops. As we peered through the window, we observed the underprivileged state of western Nepal, prompting the government to undertake numerous development projects to uplift the villages in the region. One striking aspect we noticed was the remarkably fresh air and the picturesque rural villages, making western Nepal a perfect destination for travelers who are willing to dedicate time to explore the area. To truly know western Nepal, its people, landscapes, and culture, one needs at least a week or more. It offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

An interesting architectural feature we observed in the houses was the absence of stairs. Instead, they constructed makeshift staircases using tree branches, positioning them at a slant in relation to the entrance of their homes on the first floor. In some houses, the stairs were located on the exterior of the building. This unique tradition or cultural practice of building staircases from tree branches was truly remarkable.

Another intriguing aspect we noticed was the unique architecture of the houses. The ground floor was typically designated for domestic animals, while people reside on the second and third floors. What caught our attention was the fact that the locals do not speak Nepali but rather their own distinct language, which was quite different. During our journey, we made stops for tea breaks, which were essential moments to make phone calls home and also offered panoramic views of the surroundings. All we could see were majestic mountains stretching as far as the eye could see. After approximately 12 hours, we finally arrived at Tallo Bagar. It was already dark, and due to the absence of electricity, we couldn't see anything at all. The houses were illuminated by solar-powered inverter lights. The driver instructed us to stay in a homestay where he was also staying. Although the accommodations were not what we had expected, being open to new experiences, we simply needed a good night's sleep. We placed our backpacks in the room on the first floor, although navigating the house with its unconventional staircase was a bit challenging in the absence of light. In total, there were six of us comprising the Shey Phoksundo National Park group. John and I had encountered four other trekkers along the way. The girls stayed in the adjacent room while the four of us shared one room.

Later, I stepped out of the room to wash my hands, face, and legs, as there was no designated shower area. It was then that I struck up a conversation with the two men we had met on the bus in Kohalpur. Curiosity prompted me to ask, "Where are you from?" One of them hailed from Thamel, while the other was from Nepalgunj. They shared their previous trekking experiences, including Thorang La Pass, the Annapurna Circuit Trail, and Badi Malika which are renowned for their outdoor adventures in Nepal. As our conversation unfolded, one of them mentioned the name of their colleague who frequently treks across the country. Coincidentally, he mentioned the name of my close friend, whom I often go hiking with. I couldn't believe it—how had such a connection been made? That unexpected encounter made us realize that the world is indeed small, and everyone is somehow interconnected. I excitedly shared that unbelievable coincidence with my friend, John. Not only had we met two ladies, one of whom was my former student, but we also encountered two men who were friends of my friend. After enjoying our dinner, we retired for the night.

DAY 3

On the third day of our journey, we woke up early in the morning, packed our backpacks, and prepared for another 6-7 hours of off-road adventure. During our bus ride from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, we had met a lady who gave us the phone number of her brother, who drives a jeep from Tallo Bagar to Dunai. We called that number in the morning, and he came to pick us up at Tallo Bagar. Initially, we considered reserving the entire jeep, but it was expensive, so we opted to pay per person. Around 7:00 AM, we set off for Suligad, the starting point of the Shey Phoksundo Trek.

The newly constructed road provided a thrilling off-road experience, but it also posed risks to our lives. The road hugged the river corridor, making it perilous. However, that route offered us a vivid glimpse of western Nepal. The villages exuded a rustic charm, and we hoped that the condition of the road would improve in the coming years. After a few hours of jeep ride, we made a stop to witness Silajit, a naturally occurring ayurvedic medicine found in the mountains. It is formed between two large rocks and oozes out as a black semi-liquid when they press against each other. Silajit possesses unique properties—it is malleable and ductile, allowing it to be shaped into thin sheets or threads. When snapped, it breaks into pieces. Another interesting fact about Silajit is that adding a small pinch of it turns milk completely black. Silajit holds many medicinal significances, such as enhancing sexual power and alleviating body pain.

The driver shared his knowledge about Yarshagumba, another valuable medicinal herb. It is one of the most expensive herbs in the world, and people from Dolpa and other regions venture into the Himalayas during the monsoon season to collect it. Once the permit is granted, entire families, including children above 14-16 years old, leave their homes to gather Yarshagumba. For many, it has become their source of income, with some earning up to 5-6 lakhs in one season, while others return empty-handed. The driver also mentioned the unfortunate reality that people die from altitude sickness while searching for Yarshagumba in the mountains. During our conversation, the driver's phone rang—it was a call from a tea house informing him that lunch was ready. He suggested that we try the fish caught that morning from the river, and we agreed. We reached Khadang, Tripurasundari, where we enjoyed a lunch consisting of fish and local vegetables. Without wasting time, we continued our journey towards Suligad, as we still had to hike for about 5 hours to reach Chhepka, our first camping spot. As a final stop, we took a tea break in Tripurasundari, a small valley surrounded by mountains. It resembled a small marketplace where locals come to purchase their household goods. At the top of the mountain stood the Tripurasundari Temple, and the driver suggested us to visit the temple, assuring us that it would only take 45 minutes to reach. However, we decided it would be better to proceed to Suligad, where we had to embark on a 5-hour hike to reach Chhepka. Finally, around 2:00 PM, we arrived at the Suligad checkpoint.

After paying the driver and thanking him for his assistance, we began our hike from Suligad to Chhepka around 2:15 PM. Before starting, I made a phone call to my brother to let him know that we had safely arrived in Suligad and were about to begin the 5-hour hike to Chhepka. Suligad is the place where two rivers converge to form a larger river. I wasn't certain about the local names of the rivers, but one might be Mathlo Bheri, while the other could be the Shey Phoksundo River. Suligad is named after the Nepal Army, which oversees the Shey Phoksundo National Park. We crossed a suspension bridge and continued on the trail towards Chhepka. Running out of water, we refilled our bottles from the Shey Phoksundo River and added a few drops of chlorine to purify it. Four of our trail friends had already advanced ahead. After a few minutes, we reached the Shey Phoksundo National Park office, where we obtained permits for Rs 100 each. For Nepalese citizens, the fee is only Rs 100, but for visitors from other countries, the price would be higher. We then proceeded up the trail and soon caught up with our waiting trail friends. Together, we continued our hike, observing our surroundings along the way.

We stopped for a tea break at one of the tea houses, where a young lady, who appeared to be around 19-20 years old, served us exquisite Masala tea popularly known as Muna Chiya among the locals. It was sad to think that at such a young age, she was already married and responsible for her family. We noticed that child marriage is prevalent in western Nepal, where young boys and girls aged 14-16 often run away. Unfortunately, they often have limited understanding of love and attraction. They may run away with one person initially and later run away with someone else when they reach adolescence.

After our tea break, we continued our ascent. Gradually, I started feeling pain in my left leg, but I pushed through without letting it hinder my progress. After walking for another couple of hours or so, the pain became intolerable, and I fell behind on the trail. However, with the support of John and our trail friends, I managed to keep going. After a strenuous 5-hour walk, we finally arrived at Chhepka around 7:00 PM. It was already dark, and unfortunately, there was no electricity available. With our phones about to die, we searched for tea houses where we could charge them. However, as the first tea house which had no lights and the second one we found, had solar-powered lights, but do not charge our phones, we decided to stay at the second tea house anyway since it had lights.

Due to the pain in my leg, I opted to rest while John and the others settled in. We gathered in the dining room, where a fire provided warmth. I sat near the fire, trying to alleviate the discomfort in my leg. We had tea, hot water, and engaged in conversations with fellow trekkers. I grew increasingly sleepy and almost fell asleep in the dining room. After about an hour of discussion, we had dinner and made phone calls to our families using the landline phone since there was no mobile network. Each call cost Rs 100, but despite the expense, we wanted to connect with our loved ones. That night, we had the opportunity to taste yak meat, as the tea house owner recommended it. The meat had a unique flavor. After the meal, we spent some time in the dining room, discussing our plans for the next day's hike. The owner's wife and the young lady at the tea house were kind enough to provide us with detailed information about the trails ahead. Their guidance and insights were valuable for our trekking plans. Before retiring for the night, I applied a pain reliever to my leg to alleviate the discomfort. Exhausted from the day's hike, I quickly fell into a deep and restful sleep, ready to continue our trek the next day.

DAY 4

On Monday morning, we woke up bright and early at 6:00 AM. I carefully checked my leg to assess if I could walk without much pain. Unfortunately, as I descended the stairs, I still felt discomfort in my knee. It seemed like a knee problem specifically while walking downhill. I remained hopeful that with some rest and time, it would improve within a day or two.

After completing our morning routines, we enjoyed a refreshing cup of tea along with some cookies. We decided not to have breakfast at the tea house since we had brought our own food supplies in our backpacks. Before setting off on our trek, we made phone calls to our loved ones back home using the landline phone at the tea house. Once the bills were settled, we embarked on our journey towards Rinche, which was approximately a 4-hour hike from Chhepka.

As we continued our hike, our lady trail friends, my student and her friend, had already departed a few minutes earlier and were now out of sight, deep into the trail. Two of our other trail companions also moved ahead, leaving John and me behind. John took his time to capture some photographs of the breathtaking surroundings while I continued walking. I noticed that our lady friends had mistakenly taken a different route, as I could see them lower down the mountain. I called out to them and directed them to take our trail. Even John had unintentionally taken the wrong path. Eventually, all three of them managed to find the correct trail, and John joined me once again. The trail itself offered a unique and unforgettable experience. It was a journey of getting lost and then finding our way back, adding to the adventure.

 As we descended further along the trail, the Shey Phoksundo river flowed gracefully, displaying its mesmerizing turquoise color. Every aspect of the environment felt surreal to us. Along the way, we encountered a Buddhist stupa dedicated to Thinley, a Nepali actor who played a significant role in the French movie "Caravan." The film depicted the trade relationship between Dolpa in Nepal and Tibet. It showcased the Sherpas of Dolpa undertaking perilous journeys along narrow paths in the Himalayas to exchange goods such as barley, wheat, and other supplies for Himalayan salt. "Caravan" was an exceptional movie that shed light on the challenges and beauty of the region. John and I took a photo next to the Thinley Stupa, which had a signboard mentioning that Thinley had tragically died falling from a cliff with his horse. Undeterred by the challenges, we continued our hike, eager to explore more of the trail ahead.

After crossing one of the wooden bridges, we reached the other side of the mountain, where a steep trail was carved along the edge of the mountain. As we continued, we encountered a large rock about 20-30 feet high, which served as a shelter for Sherpas. We took some photos and continued on our way. Soon, we came across another bridge. Given my difficulty in walking, John didn't leave me behind. The pain in my leg was becoming unbearable, but I managed to proceed slowly and cautiously. During our hike, we encountered a few Sherpas accompanied by their donkeys. They asked us if we had seen a donkey along the way. Although we weren't entirely certain, we replied, "We saw one not too far ahead." They expressed their gratitude and continued on their journey. As we progressed further, we encountered a steep trail in the alpine zone. Walking downhill became a significant challenge for me, and I struggled to navigate the trail. John moved ahead, while I fell behind. I took a brief pause, allowing donkeys and local people who were coming from behind to pass by before I resumed my slow descent.

After taking a rest and receiving some physiotherapy from our trail friend, I felt slightly better. He guided me to lie down and close my eyes, instructing me to take slow breaths. Following his guidance, I took a few minutes to rest. To replenish my energy, I mixed an electrolyte packet with water and drank it. I shared half of the electrolyte with my trail friend, who also had a mild leg pain. We hoped that the electrolyte water would help restore balance to our bodies.

Despite waiting for our lady friends for a while, they didn't appear, so the four of us decided to continue walking up the trail, expecting to meet them along the way. John and other two trail friends kindly didn't leave me behind, and we proceeded together. Eventually, we encountered a fork in the road and chosed the straight path, disregarding the one that led to a small village across a wooden bridge down the river. On the other side of the mountain, we could only spot a few stone houses. Anticipating another bridge ahead, we crossed a suspension bridge and noticed a trail marker indicating that we had finally arrived at Rinche, where we had planned to have our meal in the morning. We crossed the bridge and entered one of the tea houses, which resembled a hut. (It's worth noting that John lost his walking stick while crossing the bridge.) Upon reaching Rinche, it was 11:00 AM, and we approached the lady owner of a tea house, requesting her to prepare a meal for the six of us. We mentioned that our two lady friends would be joining us shortly. The owner informed us that it would take about 30 minutes to prepare the meal, to which we replied, "That's okay, we can wait." She kindly served us hot water while she began cooking. Spotting a landline phone, we took the opportunity to make phone calls to our homes. Afterwards, we asked the owner to charge our phones. Unfortunately, my phone had already switched off earlier in the morning, causing me to miss capturing many beautiful sceneries along the trail. However, I managed to take photos and videos using my old phone.

After enjoying the hot water, we stepped out of the hut and basked in the sunlight for a while. While sunbathing, our lady friends arrived. We invited them to join us for the meal, and one of them handed me a pain reliever pad. Grateful for the gesture, I immediately applied it to my leg, expressing my thanks and expressing hope that my leg would feel better soon. The four of us proceeded to have our meal together. Before leaving, one of our lady friends asked for my phone number, revealing that they had been lost in the forest previously. I shared my number with her, assuring them that if anything happened, they could call me at that number. Since their food wasn't ready yet, we couldn't wait for them and departed for Ringmo, which was approximately 4 hours away from Rinche.

Despite the pain in my leg, we continued walking slowly. Along the trail, we encountered a few Sherpas and exchanged greetings with them by saying Namaste. We passed by a school and arrived at another fork in the road. Mistakenly, we chosed the straight path that led to a different village, but we kept walking regardless. Eventually, we realized that it wasn't the correct trail to Ringmo. Regrettably, my phone had no charge, so I couldn't rely on it for navigation. None of my friends had an offline map either. We decided to take a brief rest on the side of the trail, lying down under the shade of pine trees and appreciating the natural surroundings. After a few minutes, we resumed our hike.

Knowing that we had taken the wrong trail, we speculated that the actual path to Ringmo might be long and demanding. Passing by a stone Buddhist stupa on the mountainside, we reached a small village where there were a few houses and a newly constructed tea house. We approached the people working in the house and asked them to guide us towards Ringmo. We then took another break, requesting the owner of the house to prepare tea for us. While waiting for the tea, we kept an eye on the trail behind us, hoping to spot our lady friends. However, they hadn't caught up with us yet. Eventually, our tea arrived, and the generous locals even shared some Himalayan boiled potatoes with us. The combination of the potatoes, chili, and salt was incredibly delicious. After paying the bills, we followed the path shown to us. Given the pain in my leg, I struggled to climb the steep trail, which proved to be one of the most challenging sections of the day. I had to take multiple breaks along the way. When we reached the middle of the steep trail, which appeared to be about 1000 feet high and covered in bushes and pine trees, we initially took a path that led to dead ends. After descending a few meters, we realized our mistake and corrected our course by taking the right path.

Feeling depleted of energy, we decided to have our snacks right in the middle of the cliff. It turned out to be one of the most memorable snack breaks of our trek. There are certain experiences on the trail that remain etched in our memories forever. Despite the strong gusts of wind blowing at high speeds, we protected our heads and ears with caps and continued enjoying our food as if it were our last meal. In the meantime, we kept looking back on the trail, hoping to spot our lady friends. 

Once we finished our snacks, we resumed our slow ascent. Upon reaching the top of the mountain, we felt a surge of happiness knowing that we wouldn't have to climb any further. The breathtaking views from the mountaintop offered a panorama of layered mountains, and we took some pictures to capture the moment. As we walked, we had hoped to catch a glimpse of Shey Phoksundo Lake together, so we sang our National Anthem and continued walking side by side. However, our view of the lake was obstructed by the pine-speckled mountain. Undeterred, we continued along the trail.

As darkness began to set in, we picked up our pace with the aim of reaching Ringmo. One of our friends, who also experienced leg pain, fell behind on the trail. We decided to wait for him on the suspension bridge that connected Ringmo on the other side of the mountain. While waiting, we encountered a young local boy on the bridge who recommended a tea house in Ringmo that had all the amenities we desired, including lights, WiFi, and cozy bedrooms. After a phone call, the owner of the tea house came to the suspension bridge to guide us to the tea house. John went ahead with the owner, while the two of us waited for our friend who was lagging behind. Eventually, we all made it to the tea house. Upon arrival, we immediately plugged in our phones to charge. We then proceeded to clean up and freshen up before gathering in the dining room, where we enjoyed hot water and yak tea.

While in the dining room, we made phone calls to our families, informing them that we had safely reached Ringmo and planned to explore the lake and viewpoints the next morning. As we were engrossed in conversation, my phone suddenly rang—it was our lady friends. They had also arrived in Ringmo and informed us that they were camping near the lakeside teahouse. We proceeded to have our dinner and spent about an hour in the dining room, engaging in lively discussions about snow leopards. Since Dolpa is known as the land of snow leopards, it had always been one of my wildest dreams to set foot in Dolpa. The conversation became even more captivating when we discovered that the owner of the tea house had worked as a volunteer in a snow leopard conservation program.Feeling exhausted from the 10-12 hours of hiking in the Himalayas, we finally decided to call it a night and went to bed.

DAY 5

As the morning sun cast its light on the Himalayas, I peered out of my window and felt the cold breeze blowing. Knowing that venturing outside in such weather wouldn't be ideal; I packed my backpack and headed to the dining room for some hot water. Returning to my room, I enjoyed some cookies along with the warm water. Meanwhile, John and my two other friends also prepared themselves for the hike. The lake was just a few minutes away from our campsite, so we decided not to carry water bottles or snacks. Considering my leg pain, I only took my trekking stick for support. The four of us set off towards the lake, but after a few minutes of walking, my pain intensified, causing me great concern. I silently questioned how I would manage to make it back to Chhepka later that day. Despite the pain, I persevered and continued walking.

Eventually, we reached the magnificent lake, surrounded by breathtaking scenery. We looked around for a way to reach the shore.  Other fellow trekkers advised us to hike to the viewpoint for a magnificent panoramic view of the lake. Without wasting any time, we followed the path along the cliff's edge. As we walked, it felt like we were in a heavenly realm, experiencing some of the most memorable moments of our lives. The alpine zone boasted rugged, wind-sculpted dwarf pines, resembling nature's own bonsai trees. We tasted the beauty of one of the world's most heavenly places for the first time.

Reaching the viewpoint, known as Phoksundo Height I, was quite challenging, and my friends contemplated turning back. However, I encouraged them not to give up on our journey. I assured them that we would definitely make it, no matter what. I even suggested going further to Phoksundo Height II. After  2.5 hours of walking, we finally reached Phoksundo Height I. Overwhelmed with joy, we embraced each other and savored the best moments of our trek. From that vantage point, we could see the other end of the lake as well. Due to the pain in my leg, I took some time to rest and then captured some of the most stunning pictures I could frame. The sunlight passing through the lake transformed its color into a mesmerizing turquoise blue, one of the most exquisite hues. Since there were other trekkers already present, we shared our excitement and joy with them. After bidding farewell to the trekkers who were heading to Rara Lake, the largest lake in the Himalayas of Nepal, we continued to savor the incredible views from the viewpoint. We spent some time in silence, appreciating the majestic surroundings. After about 30 to 45 minutes, we decided to descend from Phoksundo Height I since we hadn't brought any water or food with us.

© One of Our Trail Friends

As we started descending the trail, my pain became increasingly intense, reaching a point where it was unbearable. John and our other friend walked ahead, while I and my remaining friend proceeded slowly. Eventually, we all reconvened and enjoyed our time by the lake's shore. The water was frigid, and we could only tolerate a few seconds in it. We then made our way back to the tea house where we planned to have lunch.

On our return, we encountered our lady friends who were heading towards the lake’s shore. I warned them about the strong winds in the mountains and suggested they exercise caution. They informed us that they had decided to stay in Ringmo for another night. I wished them good luck and told them to enjoy their time. We continued our journey back to the tea house, reluctantly leaving behind the ancient monastery that was over 800 years old and situated on the other side of the lake.

After enjoying our lunch and settling the bills, the four of us embarked on the mountain trail, which involved climbing uphill on a newly constructed path. Along the way, I couldn't help but be captivated by the breathtaking surroundings of Ringmo, with its Himalayan backdrop and the glistening blue waters of Shey Phoksundo Lake. Taking one last look, I bid farewell to Shey Phoksundo.

As we continued our walk, I started experiencing a mild headache, likely due to the altitude and the gusts of wind we encountered. We reached an elevation of 3,900 meters before beginning our descent. Coming downhill proved to be quite challenging for me, but I persevered, supported by my trail friend who faced similar difficulties. We took intermittent rests at various points, while John and our other friend patiently waited for us, never leaving us behind.

Once we descended the steep mountainside, we continued along the trail. Eventually, we arrived at a suspension bridge, which we crossed, leading us to a nearby tea house. We took a well-deserved rest and enjoyed a tea break, accompanied by delicious hot boiled potatoes sprinkled with salt again. Soon, a group of children arrived at the tea house, and I happily shared some chocolate bars from my backpack, urging them to distribute them among their friends. I always find joy in sharing whatever I have with children or fellow trekkers.

After our tea break, we resumed our journey, maintaining a slow yet steady pace, with the goal of reaching Chhepka before nightfall. Following the trail along the riverside and through the forest, we eventually reached Rinche, where we had enjoyed our lunch the previous day. John and our other friend had been waiting for the two of us there for about 15 to 20 minutes, displaying their unwavering companionship and support.  After reaching Chhepka, I took out a bag of beaten rice from my backpack and handed it to the lady owner, relieving myself of some weight. We bid her farewell, filled our water bottles, and set off once again, this time traversing the forest trail. The alpine forest was untamed and wild, and we were conscious of the need to reach Chhepka before it got too late. As we made our way through the forest trail, darkness began to descend. However, we remained united as a group, sticking together. Under the starry night sky, we pressed on, with me leading the way using our headlights to navigate. We picked up our pace, eager to reach our destination.

At one point in the forest, we encountered an unexpected sight—a black-colored yak appeared seemingly out of nowhere. Its shadow cast a formidable figure, making us feel a surge of fear. With heightened patience and vigilance, we continued our journey, braving the encounter.

Finally, around 8:30 pm, we arrived at Chhepka. Exhausted but relieved, we sought out the same tea house where we had previously stayed. Unfortunately, the cozy and pleasant room we had enjoyed before was already occupied by other trekkers heading towards Shey Phoksundo Lake. Instead, we were allocated another house owned by the same owner. However, that particular room had no lights whatsoever. Since all we desired was a good night's sleep, we decided to make do with the dimly lit accommodation. After settling in our room, changing clothes, and freshening up, we made our way to the neighboring house where the dining room was located. We grabbed some water and began discussing our trekking experiences. There were other trekkers present, who appeared older than us, and they were curious to know about the trails. I assured them that if they could manage to reach Rinche, they would find it relatively easier to continue on to Shey Phoksundo. I explained that the challenging part would be the approximately 4-hour non-stop walk to Rinche.

Our conversation then veered into various topics, including Silajit, Yarshagumba (Caterpillar fungus), snow leopards, and mad honey. We inquired with the tea house owner if they had mad honey available for purchase, but unfortunately, they didn't have it, citing both its scarcity and high cost. However, we managed to acquire a few grams of Silajit from the owner, as John decided to buy it for Rs 500. I personally decided not to purchase any. Following our dinner, we retired for the night, occasionally making phone calls to our loved ones in between our discussions. 

DAY 6

In the morning, we woke up promptly at 6:30 AM with the intention of reaching Juphal Airport, Dolpa on time. Without wasting any time, we skipped breakfast and embarked on a long walk to Suligad, the starting point of Shey Phoksundo National Park. Initially, my leg pain had subsided as we left the tea house, but the ups and downs of the trail caused it to resurface, along with my trail friend experiencing the same discomfort. We fell behind on the trail, struggling to keep up with the others.

After walking for about 2 and half hours, we decided to stop by Shey Phoksundo River for a shower. Despite the water being incredibly cold, my trail friend and I rinsed our heads, while John took a dive into the river. Feeling refreshed, we resumed our journey along the trail. However, the two of us continued to struggle with walking. Around 11:30 AM, we took a tea break at the same tea house we had visited before heading to Chhepka. There were children around us, and my trail friend kindly shared biscuits with them. Unfortunately, I had run out of chocolates, but I would have loved to share them to bring a smile to their faces. The children appeared thin and were living a challenging life in such a remote place.

After paying the bill and leaving a tip, we continued walking for about an hour before stopping at a tea house for lunch. We noticed that the phone network had started working, so I made a phone call to my home. Meanwhile, John attempted to contact the owner of New Sagarmatha Hotel and Lodge to book flight tickets for us. Finally, he managed to make the call and provided our names, although we were aware that it wasn't certain as we hadn't paid for the tickets yet. We knew we had to reach Juphal Airport as quickly as possible. Following our lunch, we resumed our walk back to the Suligad Checkpoint.

After reaching Suligad at 2:35 PM, we had initially planned to find a jeep to take us to Juphal Airport. John made numerous phone calls to the jeep driver whose number was given to us by the tea house owner where we had lunch, but unfortunately, the driver didn't answer the calls. We even sought assistance from the checkpoint armies, as we didn't want to be stranded there. Eventually, we decided to change our plan and walk to Dunai, the capital city of Dolpa, on foot.

Around an hour or so later, at 4:00 PM, we reached Dunai. Since we couldn't find a jeep to Juphal, we explored the area, which was a small village located near the river with narrow roads in the market area. After waiting for about half an hour, we stopped at a tea shop to have tea. Surprisingly, a jeep arrived, and to our surprise, the driver was the same person whom John had been trying to reach on the phone. He joined us for tea, and we departed for Juphal.

By the time we reached Juphal, it was already 5:30 PM, and the Airport office was closed. We decided to stay at a nearby hotel that had different domestic airline counters, hoping to purchase tickets in the morning. We discovered that there were three remaining seats on the airplane, but we weren't entirely certain. This uncertainty caused us stress, and we made several phone calls to different people to ensure that we could secure tickets for all four of us.

In the late evening, we visited the sister of one of our trail friends, who lived near the airport. We even had a conversation with the Airport Incharge while having a meal, asking for four seats if available. However, he informed us that there were only three seats left, and if any passenger didn't show up, they would give the seat to us. We were stressed because the available three seats could potentially create a dilemma among us. We were four individuals, but there were only three seats available. It was a challenging situation to navigate. After dinner, we discussed the ticket situation, but unfortunately, we couldn't reach a conclusion. The uncertainty and stress loomed over us as we prepared for the night.

DAY 7

On the New Year's Day, John and I woke up early and went about our morning routines. We packed our backpacks, aware that the flights to Kathmandu only operate in the morning due to high-velocity winds. In a rush, we made our way to the main entrance of the airport, where I noticed a man who was making a list of passengers. I approached him to inquire about available seats, and he confirmed that there were three seats remaining. I quickly provided our names and requested to include the names of my two trail friends who arrived slightly later. However, as all the passengers arrived, it turned out that there was no available seat for one of our trail friends. In the end, he had to stay behind for a day, creating an awkward situation where we couldn't even exchange greetings of "Happy New Year 2080" with him.

At 7:15 AM, the three of us boarded the flight to Nepalgunj. Upon arriving, we booked tickets for our onward journey to Kathmandu and then stopped at a tea shop to have a cup of tea. Since one of our trail friends lived in Nepalgunj, we asked him to explore the city. After enjoying our tea, he bid us farewell and headed home, instructing us to meet him later at the Bageshwori Temple Gate.

We made our way to the hotel where we had previously stayed upon arriving in Nepalgunj. After checking in and freshening up, we had another cup of tea. It was still early for lunch, so we decided to explore Nepalgunj first. John and I left the hotel and took an electric Tempo to reach the Bageshwori Temple Gate, which was a few kilometers away. We waited there for our friend, and when he arrived, we explored different areas of Nepalgunj together. We visited various temples and also explored the Muslim neighborhood of the city. Eventually, we bid our friend farewell, wishing each other a Happy New Year, and made our way back to the hotel.

After having lunch, we headed to the airport for our flight to Kathmandu. However, our flight was delayed, and we ended up being stranded at the airport for about an hour. Eventually, we boarded the flight and made our way to Kathmandu, concluding our adventurous journey.

Upon arriving in Kathmandu, we opted to take a local bus for our onward journeys. John headed to his home, and we exchanged blessings, promising to stay in touch. I then waited for my brother, who came to pick me up from Satdobato. Finally, after seven days of wilderness and adventure, I arrived home. It was a comforting feeling to be back in familiar surroundings.

Summary

Our travel took us on a captivating journey through the beautiful landscapes of western Nepal. From the moment we set off on the trek, we were immersed in the awe-inspiring scenery, the challenges of the trail, and the camaraderie among our group. We were astonished by the stunning Shey Phoksundo Lake and its surroundings with vivid detail, painting a picture of a true natural wonder. Our determination to reach the viewpoints, despite physical pain, showcased  our adventurous spirit and unwavering commitment to experiencing the best of the trek. The difficulties we encountered, such as the pain in our leg, the uncertainty of transportation, and the stress of securing airplane tickets, added a sense of realism and challenge to the adventure. Despite those obstacles, our determination and resilience shone through as we pressed on to find solutions.

The story concluded with a mix of emotions as one of our trail friends was unable to secure a seat on the flight, leading to a somewhat strained farewell. However, the journey ended on a positive note as we reunited with our families, reflecting on the transformative experience we'd had.

Overall, our story beautifully captures the essence of trekking in the Himalayas, highlighting the breathtaking scenery, the bonds formed with fellow trekkers, and the personal growth that comes from pushing beyond our limits. It's a tale of adventure, resilience, and the beauty of nature that leaves all inspired to embark on their own journey.

BONUS PHOTOS OF THE SPT

© One of Our Trail Friends

© One of Trail Friends

© John

© One of our Trail Friends

© One of Our Trail Friends

© One of The Trekkers