Soloing Phulchoki

IN an unfathomed forest of Phulchoki, which is believed to be evolved in mesozoic era, I remained for more than 5 hrs, walking quietly up and down, photographing and climbing among the surrounding mountains covered with snow. Phulchoki furnishes an equally interesting example of wilderness wholly, or in part, by wide range of flora and fauna and in every direction, the landscape stretched out sublimely away in fresh wildness--- a manuscript written by the hand of Nature alone.

It all started with an obsession of walking. On a chilly morning of February 5, 2022, I woke up late and after my morning stuffs, I looked around from our terrace. I saw all the hills and mountains of the Kathmandu valley covered with snow. And I decided to hike Phulchoki, one of the care killing trails of the valley which stretches out 13 km from the base of the mountain. 

However, I already hiked this trail with my friend on last December, 2021 when first snowfall of the season hit the valley. With an urge to explore and experience the wilderness that the trail offers, I went on a solo hike.

Then, after my lunch at 11:15 AM, I walked out from my home (Chapagaun) to the Phulchoki Summit, which is about 20 km away that is equivalent to 12.42 miles from my home. As I had to walk back and forth, about 24.84 miles, I didn't waste my time here and there. After walking about 30 mins, I reached Taukhel, neighborhood of Chapagaun. Then, I took a bus that goes to Godawari in order to save 30 mins of my time. [If I walked from Taukhel to Godawari through Peace Mountain, it could take 30 mins or more]. However, I thought that I could use that amount of time to reach the summit on time.

It just took 3 mins to reach Godawari Bus park from Taukhel by bus. Then, I looked at time that it was 12:08 PM. As snowfall was so much that I saw so many people hustling at the bus park with zeal to enjoy in the snow. 

I realised that I had to walk another 13 km to reach the summit. When I reached Godawari, I already had mild headache and felt so much hungry that I took the fruit juice from the backpack and had a sip of it. Then, I took chocolate bite. And, I slowly walked uphill through the forest path, which is so wild and raw that we need guts to explore solo. 

The forest of Phulchoki is so magnificent that we define nature as we walk through the forest. Being one of the last remnants of sub tropical forest in Nepal, it's the most tranquil place of the valley where we find peace and color our heart.

Then, after walking 5 km of an entire 13 km trail, I saw flakes of snow on the road and I felt so much excited in a good way. Furthermore, I took a pace to walk uphill. I was afraid that my headache would be intense but after having chocolate, juice and water, it stopped my headache. 

As there were other hikers too, I didn't worry about the wild surroundings. I know that soloing this trail other times would be dangerous. We may encounter wild bears and boars.

As I didn't care about other hikers what they were doing on the trail, I focused on reaching the summit. Moreover, with so much snow, about 2-3 feet, the beaten track was so much slippery to walk. At that same time, it was challenging to walk and I didn't use any shortcut. We could lose stamina to reaching out the top of the mountain.

As I reached the higher elevation, the pocket of fog lingered the mountain. That fleeting moment which I was looking for, was remained for few minutes. Then, I indulged in solitude, finding a peace in silence. At that point of the trail, I didn't see anyone, just me and wild surroundings. It meant a lot to me in a good way. That was my moment of zen.

However, I got scared too and it was obvious. But, with so much determination, I reached the summit, after walking 3 hrs 30 minutes from the bottom of the mountain. The winding road of the Phulchoki is so much challenging, (Difficulty Rating-5).

Due to low visibility, I didn't spend much time on the summit. After my prayers at the temple, I walked back in search of a place where I could have my snacks. [On the summit, there is a teahouse which offers mainly tea and other snacks]. As there were other hikers having their tea and snacks, I didn't want to go there. I came a little bit down to have my snacks and tea which I took from home. 

Then after finishing my snacks, I walked slowly for a while in order to have few minutes on higher altitude. It was something like acclimatization of the body. Then, I did trail run up to 10 km. 3 km, I had to walk. When I was about to reach the bottom of the mountain, I had so much pain in my leg, downhill knee problem. Finally, I successfully came down the mountain. It was already 5:30 PM when I reached down the mountain, brother did make phone call to me and I said that "I am at Godawari waiting for bus and take me home from Taukhel". But he said; "You be there and I am coming to pick you up." It was such a huge relief to me. Otherwise, I was about to take a bus upto Taukhel and walked back for another 45 minutes to reach HOME.

Then I did wait for my brother at Godawari Bus park. He came to pick me up on his motorbike. At first, he scolded me not to hike Phulchoki alone......

I appreciated the way my brother told me. It's one of the dangerous places of the valley. Anything could happen in the forest. I, actually thought there would so many people on the trail like it used to be on last hike with my friend. Yes, there were so many people on the trail but, as I reached higher elevation, I came across with few people only. At some point, I thought I should go back. It was so scary when the fog engulfed the path.

When I reached home, I felt so much cold and I sat in front of fire for about an hour or two. Then, I filled my day's appetite with so much foods and had hot water with thyme seeds. It does take care of our lungs and keeps us away from cold. Next day, I was on full day rest. 

[This hike taught me a lesson that how hard it is to reach our goal in life! But with strong determination and dedication, we can do anything in life]. 

[When we stay close to the nature, we care our forest, our hills, our mountains with love]. 

Hike To The Phulchoki Summit

THERE is always something deeply exciting, not only in the wilderness of the forest in the mountains, which exert more or less influence over every mind, but in their varied wilderness as manifested by the change in season especially those of mountains in winter. The evergreen forest of the Phulchoki Mountain is indescribably impressive and sublime, but the native Himalayan high altitude oak trees seem to me the best interpreters of the mountain. They are mighty, ever in tune, singing and writing tree-music all their long century lives. Little, however, of these noble trees and their music will you see or hear in the strictly higher elevation of the mountain (above 2650 m).

© Nirpesh Sharma

I had long been looking from the city that never sleeps and at last, all draw-backs overcome, a friend of mine and I set forth on the second last day of December, 2021, on a 10 mile walk (Chapagaun-Phulchoki Summit) to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level.

As it rained so heavily in the valley on last week of December, 2021, it snowed in the mountains(Phulchoki, Dhunche, Chandragiri, Radar Station, Shivapuri, etc) and a good friend of mine called me on a phone requesting to hike Phulchoki, highest point on the rim of the Kathmandu valley. As I am so much obsessed with walking, I said "yes" to his request.

Early in the morning on December 30, we confirmed our hike again. Then, we set our journey after lunch. However, to manage our time, we rode our bike till 6 km of an entire 13 km trial (Godawari-Phulchoki). Moreover, we parked our bike on the side of the beaten road and walked uphill at 12:55 pm, taking one of the longest forest baths so far. Because of first snowfall of the season, the trail was packed with so many hikers, both young and old. Who didn’t want to play with snow!

       

However, we didn’t go to play with the snow. In fact, we went to experience the snowy trial and to reach the top of the summit on time. As we walked for few mins, we started seeing snow all around. The trial was fully covered with snow and the walk had become more challenging. But with strong determination, we walked non-stop using shortcuts and main trail. However, shortcuts were so much difficult to walk as they were so much slippery.

To be honest, the trail is endlessly wild. The  greatest  number of  tree species  was  found  in  the  low  altitude  (1600  m), followed  by  intermediate  altitude  (1950  m).The  highest  altitude  (above 2650 m)  contained  only  one distinct  tree  species (Oak). The low altitude has higher species diversity and dominated  by  Castonopsis indica which has common name called chinquapin or chinkapin from Fagaceae family, Quercus  glauca, a ring cupped oak, Myrica  esculenta, box berry and  myrsine  capitellate, common name not known yet, etc. The intermediate altitude has  average species diversity and dominated  by Rhododendron arboretum, Castanopsis tribuloides and Quercus incana (oak). The forest of the higher altitude is entirely dominated  by  Quercus  semicarpifolia,  a  high  altitude  Oak.

Then, the trail was engulfed by the fog, and the walk had become even more interesting. In that moment, we were seeing through the eyes of a child. It reminded me one of my hikes that I did where I had to walk alone from the top of the mountain to the bottom when the entire trail was covered with day time fog. It was one of my scariest moments of my life.

With so much rain and snow, we saw many fallen tree branches on the trail blocking our way. It was so much intriguing to see the snow resting on the tree branches. Without wasting our time, we walked to the top of the mountain steping on the snow. The thickness of the snow was just about 2-3 inches which was less than we previously expected. As we walked up the mountain through winding road, the scenery had changed.

Everything (shrubs, trees, trail) was covered with snow. We now saw Himalayan oak trees. And it meant that we had hit the higher elevation of the mountain. I was so impressed to see those oak trees holding snow on their branches and leaves. It was one of my favorite moments. Then for the last time, we took the longest shortcut trail in order to manage our time. And I had to walk very slowly because; I was having heavy backpack filled with hot water, tea, normal water and snacks. When I looked up the mountain, my friend had gone too far otherwise I could pass the backpack. When, I reached the main trail, I felt so much exhausted and tired that I wanted to throw my backpack. It was one of the difficult steep shortcuts. As we burnt so many calories, we took a chocolate bites and water and felt heavenly. You could have voracious appetite in the mountains. Then, with normal pace, we walked again seeing everything around us. Then, we reached an ancient pond of the Phulchoki covered with snow . After walking another 2 km from the pond, we reached the summit. Finally, we registered our names to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level. However, my friend had already been here several times with his friends in the past years. We spent just few mins on the summit, did prayers at Phulchoki Temple which is dedicated to Phulchoki Bhawani and attracts many people all around the year. An emperor's picturesque Panaromic view from the top of the Phulchoki is so much lofty as different Himalayan ranges like Annapurna, Manaslu, Himalchuli, Ganesh, Langtang, Rolwaling, and Gaurishankar can be seen. Wish I could stay here all my life!

After spending few mins on the summit where other hikers were having good times singing and dancing with Nepali retro folk rock songs like "हिउँ पर्यो फुरुरु हिमाली भेगैमा", हिमाल चुचुरे, सुन्दर शान्त नेपाल, etc., we headed back down as we felt cold breeze. Then we took our snacks and tea on the side of the snowy road. After filling up our empty stomach, we walked down taking the main trail. We didn't prefer to walk the shortcuts. We even did trail run on a snowy track. It was one of the best things which we did. We more often do trail run on our hike. For more than 7 Kms, we did trail run without missing the views that the mountain offers. Then, we reached the point where we parked our bike and left for home. While coming down the mountain, we witnessed the forest illuminating with evening light, golden light.

© Nirpesh Sharma

We were so happy with our hike that we actually nailed it in just 5 hrs. It was perfect end of 2021. We suggest that as Phulchoki hike is one of the best acclimatization hikes, you should hike this mountain before trekking to Himalayan regions of Nepal.

Radar Station Hike, Acclimatization Hike

The sustained grandeur of the Kathmandu valley is strikingly illustrated by the surrounding lush hills and mountains. However, one big question mark comes in our mind whenever we hike these mountainsides that can we keep these lushness of the valley for our children, for another century?

Great thoughts are conceived when we walk in the wilderness. With countless thoughts on my mind, I did a solo hike around the southern mountains of the valley dated October 30, 2021. Radar station hike could be acclimatization hike for those who wants to hike upper elevation i.e. above 2300 m above the sea level. If you hike this place more than once, you could acclimatize above elevation for a month or two.

With good walking pace, I started my hike at 11 O'clock, from my house, Chapagaun and took the same native trails that lead to the Charghare where suspension bridge joins two villages. After crossing the bridge, I took the narrow forest way that goes to the Tikabhairav. I always admire this forest path since childhood. As far as I know, this path was made more than 500 years ago. It was a portal for a trade between remote villages of southern Lalitpur with Kathmandu valley. Now, with construction of motorway up the mountain, this path is less walk by and wilderness thrives here. 

Then after 7-10 mins of trail run through wild forest, I reached Tikabhairav. This place is so much polluted. It doesn't have good air quality. With ongoing rock extraction, this place has lost its true color even the river in which once used to flow crystal clear water has become polluted. The construction of motorway on the bank of the river is one of the reasons for the pollution of the river and responsible for the extinction of many species of fish.

Then I walked uphill to reach the Radar Station which is made on the top of the mountain, 2300 m elevation from sea level. To reach the top of the mountain, we actually have to pass Kote Danda and Tinpane Bhanjyang. After walking non stop for almost an hour from Tikabhairav, I reached Tinpane Bhanjyang. I actually used shortcut way to reach Tinpane. 

Kote Danda is a small village on the lap of foothills from where you see an emperor's view of the valley and the Himalayan ranges on a clear day. It's famous for "Lapsi", a fruit also known as hog plum which is native to Nepal. Well, I saw many of these plants on the way. But, the fruits are not ripened yet and I didn't eat. Actually, it tastes so good when you eat it. The salivary glands produce so much saliva when you taste it. It helps in digestion of foods as well as in fat burn. 

As I walked uphill, I felt very cold with thin air. And then I had to wear my jacket. When I reached Tinpane, it was already 2:00 pm. I realized that, to come here on foot, it takes 3 hrs. Without wasting my time at Tinpane, I walked another 30 mins uphill to reach the top of the mountain. 

I didn't see anyone hiking this place. But, it's packed with people at times when it snows. Few years back, it had massive snowfall.

When I reached the top, I enjoyed sight seeing. Unbelievable, the station offers magnificent 360 degree view. Himalayan ranges like Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Dorje Lakpa I, II, Gaurisankar, Himalchuli can be seen from different perspective. 

Unfortunately, this time, my phone lost all the battery charges and got switched off. I couldn't able to capture all the sceneries that the mountain offers. However, I captured few images and the videos from the other phone. Hopefully, I will go back next time with full preparation. Anyway, the hike was worthwhile in so many ways. 

After sight seeing, I had my snacks under the alpine tree. The top of the mountain has different species of alpine trees. It was so quiet that I had to finish my snacks as fast as possible. The wilderness is so much challenging. I didn't want to see any wild animals at that time. 

As soon as I finished my snack, I did trail run to come down the mountain. I thought running would be better to come down. It took me around 8 mins to come down. Why I did trail run? It's because, the forest which the big chunk of mountain has, is so wild. It changes its weather within mins. Anytime, daytime fog engulfs the mountain which arises fear in our mind. Secondly, it has cemetery in the middle of the mountain which even more pumps our heartbeat so fast when we pass it alone.

Then, when I reached down at Tinpane, I walked non stop for almost 1 and half to reach Charghare where my brother was waiting with his motorbike to take me home. I didn't have any leg problem on this hike, not even headache or any physical problem. Despite having good photos and videos, I enjoyed a lot in the mountains. Southern hills and mountains of the valley is strikingly stunning for day hike. I admire if my friends go for hike. The hike would be so much inspiring. But, do not throw your trashes in the mountains which I never do. I take my trashes back home. 

To sum it up, I take every hike as one of the ecotherapies, a range of nature based activity that can help our physical and mental well-being in so many ways. It gives me structure, makes me utilise the daylight and get out of bed. It gives me something outside of myself to nurture and look after and that helps me to better look after myself.