Hike To The Phulchoki Summit

THERE is always something deeply exciting, not only in the wilderness of the forest in the mountains, which exert more or less influence over every mind, but in their varied wilderness as manifested by the change in season especially those of mountains in winter. The evergreen forest of the Phulchoki Mountain is indescribably impressive and sublime, but the native Himalayan high altitude oak trees seem to me the best interpreters of the mountain. They are mighty, ever in tune, singing and writing tree-music all their long century lives. Little, however, of these noble trees and their music will you see or hear in the strictly higher elevation of the mountain (above 2650 m).

© Nirpesh Sharma

I had long been looking from the city that never sleeps and at last, all draw-backs overcome, a friend of mine and I set forth on the second last day of December, 2021, on a 10 mile walk (Chapagaun-Phulchoki Summit) to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level.

As it rained so heavily in the valley on last week of December, 2021, it snowed in the mountains(Phulchoki, Dhunche, Chandragiri, Radar Station, Shivapuri, etc) and a good friend of mine called me on a phone requesting to hike Phulchoki, highest point on the rim of the Kathmandu valley. As I am so much obsessed with walking, I said "yes" to his request.

Early in the morning on December 30, we confirmed our hike again. Then, we set our journey after lunch. However, to manage our time, we rode our bike till 6 km of an entire 13 km trial (Godawari-Phulchoki). Moreover, we parked our bike on the side of the beaten road and walked uphill at 12:55 pm, taking one of the longest forest baths so far. Because of first snowfall of the season, the trail was packed with so many hikers, both young and old. Who didn’t want to play with snow!

       

However, we didn’t go to play with the snow. In fact, we went to experience the snowy trial and to reach the top of the summit on time. As we walked for few mins, we started seeing snow all around. The trial was fully covered with snow and the walk had become more challenging. But with strong determination, we walked non-stop using shortcuts and main trail. However, shortcuts were so much difficult to walk as they were so much slippery.

To be honest, the trail is endlessly wild. The  greatest  number of  tree species  was  found  in  the  low  altitude  (1600  m), followed  by  intermediate  altitude  (1950  m).The  highest  altitude  (above 2650 m)  contained  only  one distinct  tree  species (Oak). The low altitude has higher species diversity and dominated  by  Castonopsis indica which has common name called chinquapin or chinkapin from Fagaceae family, Quercus  glauca, a ring cupped oak, Myrica  esculenta, box berry and  myrsine  capitellate, common name not known yet, etc. The intermediate altitude has  average species diversity and dominated  by Rhododendron arboretum, Castanopsis tribuloides and Quercus incana (oak). The forest of the higher altitude is entirely dominated  by  Quercus  semicarpifolia,  a  high  altitude  Oak.

Then, the trail was engulfed by the fog, and the walk had become even more interesting. In that moment, we were seeing through the eyes of a child. It reminded me one of my hikes that I did where I had to walk alone from the top of the mountain to the bottom when the entire trail was covered with day time fog. It was one of my scariest moments of my life.

With so much rain and snow, we saw many fallen tree branches on the trail blocking our way. It was so much intriguing to see the snow resting on the tree branches. Without wasting our time, we walked to the top of the mountain steping on the snow. The thickness of the snow was just about 2-3 inches which was less than we previously expected. As we walked up the mountain through winding road, the scenery had changed.

Everything (shrubs, trees, trail) was covered with snow. We now saw Himalayan oak trees. And it meant that we had hit the higher elevation of the mountain. I was so impressed to see those oak trees holding snow on their branches and leaves. It was one of my favorite moments. Then for the last time, we took the longest shortcut trail in order to manage our time. And I had to walk very slowly because; I was having heavy backpack filled with hot water, tea, normal water and snacks. When I looked up the mountain, my friend had gone too far otherwise I could pass the backpack. When, I reached the main trail, I felt so much exhausted and tired that I wanted to throw my backpack. It was one of the difficult steep shortcuts. As we burnt so many calories, we took a chocolate bites and water and felt heavenly. You could have voracious appetite in the mountains. Then, with normal pace, we walked again seeing everything around us. Then, we reached an ancient pond of the Phulchoki covered with snow . After walking another 2 km from the pond, we reached the summit. Finally, we registered our names to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level. However, my friend had already been here several times with his friends in the past years. We spent just few mins on the summit, did prayers at Phulchoki Temple which is dedicated to Phulchoki Bhawani and attracts many people all around the year. An emperor's picturesque Panaromic view from the top of the Phulchoki is so much lofty as different Himalayan ranges like Annapurna, Manaslu, Himalchuli, Ganesh, Langtang, Rolwaling, and Gaurishankar can be seen. Wish I could stay here all my life!

After spending few mins on the summit where other hikers were having good times singing and dancing with Nepali retro folk rock songs like "हिउँ पर्यो फुरुरु हिमाली भेगैमा", हिमाल चुचुरे, सुन्दर शान्त नेपाल, etc., we headed back down as we felt cold breeze. Then we took our snacks and tea on the side of the snowy road. After filling up our empty stomach, we walked down taking the main trail. We didn't prefer to walk the shortcuts. We even did trail run on a snowy track. It was one of the best things which we did. We more often do trail run on our hike. For more than 7 Kms, we did trail run without missing the views that the mountain offers. Then, we reached the point where we parked our bike and left for home. While coming down the mountain, we witnessed the forest illuminating with evening light, golden light.

© Nirpesh Sharma

We were so happy with our hike that we actually nailed it in just 5 hrs. It was perfect end of 2021. We suggest that as Phulchoki hike is one of the best acclimatization hikes, you should hike this mountain before trekking to Himalayan regions of Nepal.