Perched atop a hill on the western
edge of the Kathmandu Valley, the ancient Swayambunath
Stupa (known to tourists as
the Monkey Temple) is Kathmandu's
most important Buddhist shrine. The sleepy, all-seeing Buddha eyes that stare
out from the top have become the quintessential symbol of Nepal.
Swayambhu (Devanagari: स्वयम्भू स्तूप; Newar: स्वयंभू; sometimes Swoyambhu)
is an ancient religious architecture atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, west of Kathamndu city.
The Tibetan name for the site means 'Sublime Trees' (Wylie: Phags.pa
Shing.kun), for the many varieties of trees found on the hill. However, Shing.kun may be a corruption of the local Nepal Bhasa name for the complex, Singgu, meaning 'self-sprung'. For the Buddhist Newars in
whose mythological history and origin myth as well as day-to-day religious
practice, Swayambhu occupies a central position, it is probably the most sacred
among Buddhist pilgrimage sites. For Tibetans and followers of Tibetan Buddhism, it is second only to Boudha.
Swayambhunath, Monkey Temple is a melting
pot of Nepal since ages. Thousands of devotees visit this historical and spiritual place every day.
History of Swayambhunath
Stupa
When this temple was founded about 2,000 years ago,
Kathmandu Valley was filled with a great lake. According to Buddhist legend, a
single perfect lotus grew in the center of the lake. When the bodhisattva
Manjusri drained the lake with a slash of his sword, the lotus flower settled
on top of the hill and magically transformed into the stupa. Thus it is known
as the Self-Created (swayambhu) Stupa.
The earliest written record of the Swayambunath Stupa's
existence is a 5th-century stone inscription, but scholars believe there was
probably a shrine here as early as the 1st century. Even before that, it is
likely that animist rites took place on this hill. Swayambunath is one of
Nepal's oldest Buddhist temples and it has an ancient atmosphere, especially
when one approaches on foot with the pilgrims.
What to See at Swayambhunath Stupa
The
primary approach to the temple is from the eastern side, where 365 ancient steps lead up the steep forested hillside.
The base is about a 20-minute walk from the center of Kathmandu. This staircase
is the only route pilgrims would consider and is the most memorable way for any
visitor to experience the stupa. However, an alternative is to drive or take a
taxi to the west side, where there are only a few steps to climb to the top.
At the
bottom of the eastern stairway is a brightly painted gate containing a huge Tibetan prayer wheel
nearly 12 feet tall. It takes two people to turn it and a bell sounds during
each revolution. Around the gate are dozens more smaller wheels. Devotees spin
prayer wheels to release prayers and mantras to heaven - visitors are welcomed
to do so as well.
The
staircase is presided over by three painted Buddha
statues from the 17th century
near the base (women perform prostrations before them in the early morning);
another group further up are from the early 20th century.
Strewn
along the staircase are numerous mani
stones, inscribed with the Tibetan mantra Om
mani padme hum ("Hail
to the jewel in the lotus"). Merchants sell smaller versions of the stones
to tourists. The stairs run through a beautiful forest, which is populated with
the hundreds of monkeys that give the temple its nickname.
The
central buildings and decorations of Swayambhunath are rich with Buddhist symbolism. The
whitewashed dome of the main
stupa represents the womb of
creation, with a phallic complement in the square tower. Rising from the tower
is a spire made of 13 golden disks, representing the steps to enlightenment.
The umbrella on top symbolizing enlightenment itself; some say it contains a
bowl of precious stones.
The
famous Buddha eyes gazing out sleepily from each side of
the tower (oriented to the four cardinal directions) are those of the
all-seeing Primordial Buddha. Between each of the pairs of eyes is a symbol
that looks like a question mark - this is the Nepali number "1" and
represents the unity of all things. Gold plaques rising above the eyes like a
crown depict the Five Dhyani Buddhas, celestial buddhas who are associated with
the five senses, the four cardinal directions plus the center, and many other
symbolic groups of five.
The
Five Dhyani Buddhas are further honored with special shrines at the base of the stupa. They face the
four cardinal directions, plus one slightly left of east to represent the
center direction. Between them are shrines to four of the Buddhas' consorts.
Linking all nine shrines together is a chain of prayer wheels and butter lamps.
The five main shrines are enclosed in beautiful gilded copper repoussé work,
for which the Kathmandu Valley is renowned.
Filling
the platform around the main stupa are numerous other shrines and votive structures, most of which
have been donated by kings and lamas in the last four centuries. Five of them
are associated with the five elements: earth, air, fire, water and sky.
Notable
among these is the Harati Devi
Temple, dedicated to the Hindu goddess of smallpox and other epidemics, as
well as a protectress of children. The small brick pagoda is very popular among
both Hindus and Buddhists, especially mothers seeking blessings for their
children.
Petitioners
toss flower petals, rice, colored powder and holy water over the Harati image,
then receive a tika from the resident priest. Monkeys,
stray dogs, and pigeons fight over the rice and the food offerings,
contributing to the chaotic atmosphere. The image of the goddess dates only
from the 19th century; it replaces the original that was smashed by King Rana
Bahadur Shah after his wife died of smallpox.
Food
offerings for Harati (typically stew, rice and bread) are cooked in a kitchen
on the bottom floor of a gompa (monastery prayer room) on the west
side of the complex. Visitors can climb stairs to the gompa roof, which is
level with the Buddha eyes. From here there are fine views over the stupa and
Kathmandu valley.
Northwest
of the main stupa is another important shrine, associated with a fascinating
legend. Shantipur is a small, plain, box-shaped temple
said to contain a great treasure - a living holy man who has been meditating in
there for 1500 years. Legend has it that Shanti Shri, who lived in the 5th
century, locked himself in a vault beneath the temple, vowing to remain there
until the Kathmandu Valley needed him. Entering a mystic state, he has achieved
immortality and remains there to help the local people when needed.
In
1658, King Pratap Mella descended into the chamber alone to seek Shanti Shri's
help with a drought. The king reported making his way through several underground
rooms, each more frightening than the last. The first contained large bats and
hawks, the second was home to hungry ghosts that clutched at him in agony, and
the third was full of snakes that chased him until he pacified them with milk.
The king found the saint in the last room, skinny as a skeleton but still alive
and meditating. Shanti Shri presented the king with a mandala, which brought
the needed rain.
The
outer sanctum of the rather ominous temple can be visited. It is decorated with
faded frescoes from the Swayambhu
Purana, a 17th-century scripture that recounts the creation myths of the
Kathmandu Valley. Shantipur is also called Akashpur (Sky Place) and it
represents the fifth element.
The two
bullet-shape temples (shikra) on each side of the stupa, known as Pratappur and Anantapur,
were given by King Pratap Malla to help him earn a victory over Tibet in the
17th century. The story of his success is inscribed on the twin bells in front.
At the
northeast corner of the complex is the Shree
Karma Raj Mahavihar, an active Tibetan monastery with a big Buddha statue
and yak butter candles lit by pilgrims. The resident monks chant around 3 or
4pm daily. The northwest corner is home to Agnipur,
a neglected shrine to the ancient Hindu fire god Agni, who relays burnt
offerings to heaven. Between these two, north of the main stupa, is Nagpur, a small tank with a
snake idol at the bottom. This helps appease the valley's notorious snake
spirits.
At the
top of the eastern steps is a great bronze vajra (thunderbolt), a Tantric symbol of
power, decorated with the signs of the Tibetan zodiac.
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| "Western Side Of Kathmandu Seen From Swayambhu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Harati Temple" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Prayer Flags & Kathamndu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Tourists" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Pursuit Of Equanimity" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Swayambhu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Tourist Shops" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Stupa" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| A Boy & Medieval Buddhist Stone Chaityas" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Passing By Hanging Paintings" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Lady Tourist At Swayambhu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Prayer Wheels" |
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| "Little Buddhas" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Monkey Temple" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Harati Temple" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Distraction" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Buddha On Meditation" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Blur" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Bajra" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Little Arts" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Wisdom Eyes" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Dipankar Buddha" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Visitors" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Shops Around Swayambhu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Way To Swayambhu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Illuminated Stupa" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Illumination Of Stupa On Buddha Jayanti" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Spirit Of Swayambhu" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Buddha" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "7th Century Dipankar Buddha" © BIKESH DESHAR |
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| "Light Up" © BIKESH DESHAR |
When to Go
The weather is most pleasant in Kathmandu in spring and fall. Swayambhunath is most atmospheric in the morning (before 9am), when it hosts more pilgrims than tourists. If possible, visit on a Saturday, the only day Nepalis have off from work. This is the primary day of activity around the Harati and other shrines.
Festivals and Events
The two main festivals celebrated at Swayambhunath are Buddha Jayanti(in April or May) and Losar (in February or March). During these times, many pilgrims visit the temple and the monks create a lotus pattern on the stupa with saffron-colored paint. Also important is the month-long Gunla celebration (August or September) marking the end of the rainy season.
And here I am with an urge
The more I experience this freedom, the more I stay vigilant
