Day 1.
With the feeling of being into the wild nature for a while, on Friday, October 14, I packed my backpack in order to make a spiritual journey across Manaslu region which is so far the wild and unspoilt kingdom of Nepal. I, actually teamed up with one of my friends' friend and her family. On Friday afternoon, we reached at Sotikhola by bus from Kathmandu [bus fair~Rs 900]. Then, after 2 and half hour jeep ride [jeep fair~ Rs 400], we reached at Machhekhola where we spent our first night in one of the tea houses. Along the way, we met one solo trekker from Surkhet who was also doing MCT for the first time. He also stayed with us that night. We talked about our trekking experiences before and after our supper. Then, we went for bed.
Day 2.
Tossing and turning, I couldn't sleep well and I woke up early 6 in the morning and arranged my backpack for the first day of trekking. Skipping our breakfast and just having hot water, we left for camp 2, Philim, according to our itinerary which was given by our friend who did MCT few weeks ago, before Dashain, Nepal's biggest festival. After making phone calls to our home, we, four started our trek around 6:30 AM knowing that we would enjoy everything along the trail. As two of us were ahead of the trail, we met 2 kids playing with their Himalayan puppies and mother dog, I took out a packet of cookies from my pocket and gave it to the mother dog and her puppies. Then, I got ahead of the trail. I walked slowly enjoying the best river trail's views. As I was ahead of the trail, I waited and looked back for my friends and they were still there with the dogs. Then, I decided to walk further on the trail.
For the first time, I felt more comfortable and relaxed along the river trails. The ceaseless flow of Budi Gandaki river got me into the attention that we should live our life with ceaseless flow. In the meantime, the unshakeable mountains on both sides are as awe inspiring as they are. I wondered that Nepal is best place for any kind of thrilling outdoor adventures. I am happy that I call this my home where I feel most alive.
With countless feelings on my head, I walked further up. I was distracted by the number of waterfalls along the trail that I took best footages in photo and video. However, I didn't spend much time as I was focused on walking. I kept walking until I reached Tatopani which is also known as home of natural hot springs. I met other trekkers and their team leader here as they were leaving for another destination. I asked them; "where is your camp for today". Their team leader replied; "Hopefully, we'll make it to Salleri, otherwise Jagat". I said; "Thank you very much". Then, their team leader questioned me; "Are you alone?" I said; "No! My friends are behind and they are coming ". I said; "See you on the trail!". They left from Tatopani. I put my backpack on the side of the trail and washed my face with natural hot water. I said to myself:"wish I could have hot water bath. It would be so much better". However, my mind said that, it would so cold once you come out from the hot water springs. Then, I waited for my friends who were left far behind. It had been 15 mins or so, they didn't show up. Then, I walked further up. As I was walking, I got distracted by one of the waterfalls. The speed of the waterfall was so powerful that it could hit you so badly. I crossed the waterfall, however, my shoes got wet. Then, I looked back and glanced the waterfall once. Suddenly, drove of donkeys popped in on the trail with heavy loads on their back. I ran back in order to get some story telling photos and videos. I learnt that they are unsung heroes of the Himalayas. Without them, Himalayas would be just a name.
Then, I walked ahead enjoying the best views that my eyes could see. Then, I met same trekkers who were ahead of me. Talking with them, I walked further up the trail. Their team leader was one of the finest people I had ever met along the trail. We had some water break and I actually waited for my friends who were left behind on the trail. As they had not shown, I walked further with their team leader. He said that it was not a good idea to walk alone on this trail as this place is not secure for a traveler like you. He said again; "Whatever....Walk with us until you meet your friends!". I said; "That would be great idea. Thank you very much". Then, we took a lunch break around 12:00 PM at Yaru. While having our foods, we had a talk about Manaslu Circuit Trek. Later, he shared his experiences about trekking across the country. He had been to many places of Nepal. As I was waiting for my friends on the mountain and frequently looking back on the trail, they didn't show up. Knowing that I would meet my friends at camp site, again I walked ahead with them. After 1 and half hrs of walk, we reached Jagat where most of trekkers camp. But, we decided to stop our walk for a day at Salleri which was just 20-30 mins away from Jagat. When we reached Jagat, they took the coupon and enter their guest's names. Jagat is the point where foreign trekkers have to enter their names and take permits, MCAP. Although they initially take the permits from Kathmandu , they have to enter their names. However, soloing is not allowed in MCT for foreign tourists. They have to take permits at least of 3.
During that time, I made phone calls to my parents and said that we made it to Jagat so far and we were leaving for Salleri for camp 2. I said; "I'll make a call again once I reach there". Then, I took a rest for a while with two other Sherpa brothers whom I met along the trail. We felt like we were brothers already. I liked the way how kind they were! Along the way, we talked a lot. They said that they were on high school and got free time to do work here. I was so amazed by their strength that they were carrying more than 30 kg and so. Out of the blue, two trekkers popped in with their Nepali guide. They asked for my itinerary and I took out my phone and showed them my whole itinerary from offline map while their guide got busy taking the coupon and permit. I said them: "we don't camp here and as we have time, we can make it to Salleri which is just half an hr from here". They talked in French eachother and they said to their guide that we could also make it next stop then. After entering the names, we all left for Salleri. In between, we were so amazed by the imposing rock of gorge walls. We were wondering that hopefully we get to see Himalayas tomorrow.
Finally, we reached Salleri where we camped. As soon as I reached there, I made phone call to my parents and later to my friends and told them that I reached Salleri and said them to come here..... However, they couldn't make it as one of my friends got pain in the legs. They decided to camp at Jagat. At some point, I felt sad that how we got separated! Later that evening, I met that trail friend again who stayed with me last night. He showed up in the dinning room and shouted him..."Brother! come here". He also stayed with me in the night. Later that night, we had great time talking with each other in different subjects in the dinning room. It was quite a great night. Then we went for bed.
Day 3.
As our tea house was on the bank of Budi Gandaki river, I had a sleepless night. I woke up early and did my morning stuffs. Then, I made a phone call to my friends. I said:"Good morning! Where are you?". They said: "We have already left from Jagat and on the way to Salleri". I said:"That's great! I'll be waiting here on the way'. Then, I made another call to my mother and told her that we were leaving for day 3 hike and I'll make call again later in the day. I then said good bye to all whom I met and told them that I got my friends back who were coming here now. As I was waiting on the trail, same French trekkers whom I met yesterday showed up. I said them: "Good Morning and Namaste!". They also said: "Namaste!". As they walked ahead on the trail, I was still waiting for my friends. As I was taking some pictures, my friends popped in as an ant on the trail. Knowing that I would meet them somewhere in Philim, I also walked ahead slowly. Then, crossing one of the many landsides, I met those French trekkers and their guide brother again. Talking with them, I slowly walked further. Then, we came across with one of the biggest suspension bridges which connects Philim on the other side of the mountain. We took some pictures and walked again. As we were on the bridge, and while I was taking the pictures, one of them asked me: "Would you want me to take your portrait". I said: "It's okay! Thank you so much". Then, he went ahead. I looked back my lost friends from the bridge and they still didn't show up. I also walked further up the mountain. Then, I had a talk with one of them who is like 50-60 years old. He said to me that he had been to Nepal for 4 times and trekked Everest region for 4 times. I said to him:" You must be great person and you must write book about Nepal as you have been to Himalayas for many times". He said again:"I am doctor from France and he is my assistant doctor. We both work in hospital". I said to him:"That's nice! Sounds great!". I said to me: "This time, we are doing Manaslu as well as Annapurna Circuit Trek". I said:"That sounds great! You guys would have great taste of Himalayas". He asked to me:"What do you?" I said to him: "I am a chemistry post graduate and I have a free time these days, so I decided to get into the trail for a while in order to rejuvenate myself. So I came with my friends. I do blogging, something like writing travelstory. Someday, I would make a book about my magnificent hikes. Then, he said to me:"Nepalese people are very kind and friendly. In our country, it's not the same". Then after few mins of walk, we reached Philim of Chumnubri Municipality where they had to enter their names in the check post. As the guide brother went for checklist, we three talked and took some pictures of the kids and surrounding. They said to me that they wanted to do Upper Dolpa Trek next year. His assistant doctor said to me:" Do you know that French movie which was made in Dolpa?". I said: "Amm! Oh yes! Caravan. I know that movie. The yak fell into the Shey Phoksundo Lake and died....... It's based on true events that back in history, people from Upper Dolpa take a long journey with caravan of yaks carrying rock salt to the lower valley to trade for grains". He said again:" In French, it's called, Himalaya: L'Enfance d'un chef. We want to see Dolpa".
Before leaving Philim, one of them used Asthma propeller and then, we walked further up to the Nyak Phedi. As we were walking, we saw one desolated village on the other side of the mountain and I said to them:" Imagine how does it feel like to be in that village where technology hardly works?". One of them said:" I imagine". Then, we came across with the biggest suspension bridge which connects that village having roughly 30 houses. I and one of them went to that bridge and took some pictures. We came down the main trail and took some water break. They shared their chocolate bars and dried fruits with me and their guide brother. I said: "I have chocolate bars in my pocket. So, thank you very much". One of them urged me to have their dried fruits and I took 2 pieces of almond. We had few mins of talk and walked further. Then, we came across with one of the longest waterfalls of the trail so far where we did freeze the time for photos. Then, we slowly walked up the trail. After crossing one of the landslides, we saw that the landscape had changed a little bit. As it was the autumn season, we witnessed the colorful trees on the other side of the mountain. I said to them:"Now, you see colorful trees". One of them said to me:" In France, it's quite different. In autumn season, leaves are quite orange red and yellow". I said:"I see". Then, we came across fork in the road. One leads the Tsum Valley and other one leads to the Larke Pass and that's where we wanted to go. After taking some pictures on the suspension bridge, we reached Nyak Phedi. Then we walked further through the mountain forest trail in order to reach Pewa. As the trail is so wild, we picked our pace. We didn't want to chase by any animal on the trail. In the middle of trail, we had to cross one of the dangerous landslides. Few days ago, some trekkers had to use other way which I heard about this from other trekkers. However, whenever we reached there, local people had already made the temporary way for the trekkers. Then, as I was going through the bank of Budi Gandaki river, my phone rang. It was my mother's phone call. I picked it up and told her:" we are going to Pewa for lunch and don't worry about me. I don't have any physical problem. We'll be home for the festival...". Then, we crossed the landslide and I gave some money to them who were working so hard, fixing the trail. I told them:" God bless you all". After 45 mins and so, we reached Pewa where we took our lunch. They asked my name as we were having foods. I told them:"My name's Bikesh". One of them said:"Bikesh, if you take so much rice, you can't walk". I said:"We can't live without it and never waste your foods in the mountains". Then, after our lunch, we slowly walked through the forest trail to our camp, Deng where we would be stopping our hike for the day. Along the way, we had to cross the landslides. Then, we got a chance to see the Himalayas up close. The Himalayas which we saw was Shringi Himalayas, height 7083 m. I got one of the best photos before we got to Deng. Then, we reached Deng after crossing one of the suspension bridges. We could have gone to further up but we decided to stay at Deng. We booked our rooms for a night in one of the tea houses. That evening, I met all friends, that solo trekker brother and other trail friends with whom I was yesterday. My friends stayed with me in the same tea house. However, others stayed in other tea house. At some point, I was so happy that I got my friends back. But in the meantime, I felt sad that they couldn't able to walk with pace. Before our supper, I and my friends went to other tea house in order to have some talks. We spent a lot of time in the dinning room talking on different topics. Then, we came back to our tea house to have dinner and before and after dinner, we played cards for a while. As I felt tired, I didn't play later and I went for sleep. Before going to bed, I spent few mins with one of the French trekkers who seemed a little bit unwell. I said to him:"Do you need Balm? I have one unused and new. It opens nasal passage and relieves the pain". He said to me:"I'm okay and I don't need it. This will be fine in a few days. Thank you, Bikesh!". I said to him:"Perfect!".
Day 4.
I woke up early in the morning, I had my free tea and paid my amounts of the foods and bed. However, the owner of the tea house didn't take my bed charge. I said to him:"Thank you so much for your generosity". Then, I said good bye to one of my friends telling that we would meet on the trail. I said good bye to one of the French trekkers and the guide brother. French trekker said to me:"Alone?". I replied:"Yes, I'm leaving". They all were waiting for breakfast even my friends, I guessed so! Then, skipping my breakfast, I walked from there at 6:30 AM. I didn't take breakfast because they charge a lot of money if you include breakfast while booking. So, I decided to skip breakfast and snacks on the trail. At the same time, I had to save money for high pass. The foods and bed charge are so expensive as we go up in the Himalayas. I was saying to myself that I was on sustainable trek.
Then, I walked alone further thinking that I would see people on the trail. Out of the blue, I saw another big landslide which I crossed all by myself. I met few other trekkers on the trail. As I was walking with them, they seemed on lavish holidays. So, I left them and walked further. As I had walked long distance in just short amount of time, I took a rest somewhere near the Ghap where I would be taking my lunch. Instead of taking my lunch, I took out leftovers from the backpack and ate them all just sitting on the side of the trail and enjoyed the view: Exquisite colorful alpine ranges, one of the most beautiful waterfall and ancient Budi Gandaki river. I was saying to myself:"Today, I will check my extremity and challenge myself. Let's see how far we can go without having a meal of the day".
As I reached Ghap at 9:50 AM, I thought that I could make it to Lho, today. Then, I went to one of the tea houses and asked for water. After refilling the water from the kitchen, I walked ahead on the trail. I got worried that if I didn't see people on the trail as I was told by one of the guide brothers that after Ghap, we have to walk through forest trail until Shyala.
With bold decision, I walked all alone through the forest trail to the Namrung. After 2 and half hrs of relentless walk, I reached Namrung at 12:39 PM. Between Ghap and Namrung, the alpine forest was so wild and unspoilt that I got scared of wild animals. As I was going through the forest, I saw a herd of wild mountain sheep and Himalayan Monkeys. I got so afraid that I ran away from the monkeys.
When I got to the Namrung, I thought that I could make it to Lho again as I had so much time for Lho. At the same time, Namrung is little bit expensive than other places which made me to skip the camp. However, it's obvious that the only transportation is either porters or donkeys in the Himalayas which makes things double or triple of the main price. Then, again after refilling my water bottle from the tap, I took a rest and left Namrung. It was up-downhill trail and I walked slowly. As the surrounding had changed, I saw colorful alpine trees which I had never seen before. However, I felt so sad after seeing stones houses along the trail. The people are so poor that they couldn't even afford daily meals. How could they make good houses? Despite economic background, the locals are very kind which I experienced on the trail. They are rich by heart. Along the way, I met a group of foreign trekkers with their guide and Sherpas. Instead of Tsum Valley trekking, they came to Manaslu Circuit Trek due to landslides which blocked the trail to the Tsum Valley. I was especially talking with one Sherpa who got problem in chest and left behind on the trail. I told him to have medicine when he reached to Lho. I recommended him Azithromycin which prevents the infection of chest. He said that he would take it if the health post was open. I walked with him and other Sherpas. Then, we reached Lho where we would be taking rest. I stayed in the same tea house where they were staying. It took me 3 and half hrs to get to the Lho from Namrung. It was crazy day so far that I had to walk alone in the forest for hrs. At the same time, I walked 10 and half hrs with just less amount of foods. With carrying backpack relentlessly for hrs, I got so much in my shoulders that I couldn't even hold a glass of water. Then, after doing my stuffs, I went to the cozy dinning room for tea and hot water. In the evening, the light went out in our tea house and got me worried that I didn't make phone calls yet to my home. At the same time, the Telecom services went down due to problems in the tower. For hrs, I was waiting for the light. Then late in the evening, the light came in and I managed to text one of my friends online, telling him to make phone call to my home and he frequently did. Later that night, I looked around other tea houses for my friends. I didn't find them and came back and spent time with the Sherpas. That Sherpa brother got the medicine as he told me while we were in the dinning room. I told him:"You should have pantop tab too". He said:"They gave me that one too". From politics to trekking all across the country, we talked for hrs in the dinning room. Then after our special dinner with wild edible mushrooms, we went for sleep. Before my bedtime, I massaged my shoulders with mustard oil which I took from home. Consequently, I went to deep sleep.
Day 5.
I woke up at 5:00 AM, I peeked through the curtains that it was still dark. I went to washroom and did pee and came back to my room and slept again. Then, 7 in the morning, after my morning stuffs, I left for another day of uphill hike. After few mins of walk while I was taking beautiful pictures of Manaslu, my phone rang and it was my mother's call. I was so happy that network worked which I didn't notice before. We talked for a while. I did mentioned my itinerary and told her that I would be home by 3 days. Slowly, I walked further up on the winding trail enjoying some of the most charming view of the Himalayas all around the trail until I got to the forest trail before Shyala where I felt like I was going through the enchanted forest with a rich variety of novel trees.
The glacier water springs flowed in tranquil beauty. Oh yes! The pathways were exquisitely delightful. After 2 hrs of walk, I finally reached Shyala from where I gazed with eager longing through the burning glare to the snowy Mount Manaslu. Shyala is delightfully one of the best places of the Manaslu Circuit Trek where you get a chance to witness some of the noble and enduring mountain ranges. At the same time, the Buddhist vibes which it gives is so inspiring. Anyway, when I reached Shyala at 9:15 AM, I took a rest with other Sherpas. Then, we left for Samagaun which is often known as capital of the circuit. After crossing Shyala-Samagaun Bridge, we took a rest one more time on the open plain nearby one of the Chortens. On one side, I saw kids studying in the sun. While on the other side, a small waterfall in the colorful mountain attracted my eyes. Then, I look around in all 4 directions and noticed that Samagaun might be the widest place of the Manaslu region. Without wasting the time, I walked with the Sherpas to the tea house where they were camping. I questioned them while we were in the dinning room:"Could I make it to Samdo today?". They said to me:"Yes, obviously. It's not far away from here". Then after finishing my lunch, I did a acclimatized hike to the Birendra Lake which is turquoise lake situated 3691 m elevation and formed by Manaslu Glacier. After 30 mins of uphill walk, I reached the lake which is one of the incredible sights of the Trek. Nobody wants to miss this place! As soon as I reached the lake, I greeted Manaslu with my hands, "Namaste!!!". It was a great feeling that I was all alone in the lake and spent some time staring at Mount Manaslu with snow in glorious abundance and it's glacier. I was wondering that how small I was infront of Mount Manaslu. I felt like we are incomparable infront these giants. As I was scouting around the lake, two Nepalese brothers popped in the lake. Then, we spent time together in the lake taking some pictures and we left for Samdo. They took the same trail because they had left their backpack down somewhere near the Samagaun. I took the different one which leads to Manaslu Base Camp as well as to the Samdo. We decided to meet at the confluence where it goes to Samdo as our camp was the same. After crossing the lake, I walked further up to the north in order to get the trail. After sometime, I got lost in the bushes. I didn't see any trail marks. Then, I took out my phone scanned the trail. After 20 mins and so, I got the trail where I met 4 Sherpas who were descending from base camp to the Samagaun. They showed me the way to the Samdo. Later, I met those Nepalese brothers on the way. One of their names was also Bikesh. Then, we went to our campsite. As they were walking slowly, I walked ahead on the trial. Soon, the weather changed and it started snowing on the mountains. Later, one of them got pain in the left side of the stomach, and we walked together. At some point, I didn't want to leave them. I encouraged him to walk slowly and told him to change the position of trekking pole. After a while, he didn't feel any pain. After 3 hrs of walk, we reached Samdo at 4:05 PM. Soon, we looked for tea house where we would be staying for a chilly night. As soon as changing my clothes, I went to dinning room and had hot tea and water. I spent more time in the dinning as it had fire going on. As there were other foreign trekkers, Nepali Guides and Sherpas, we all started talking. First thing we talked about was the unpredictable weather in the Himalayas. As they were acclimatizing at Samdo, they said that it was clear day and soon as the sun began to set, it snowed. I and two of trail friends talked and decided to leave for Dharmasala early 5:30 and so in the morning. Then, the topic changed to the Trekking. They shared a lot of things about Sherpas. For instance, how they dedicate their work of carrying bags for bread and butter! How partially others behave them on the trail, specially in Everest region. In between our hot talk, I did text to my home and told my parents that I was camping Samdo, today and tomorrow, we would go for last camp, Dharmasala in order to pass the Larkya Pass. Then after few mins, we had our dinner. As I was finishing my foods, other Sherpa brothers and guide brothers were also served with dinner. After finishing my foods, as I was talking with one of the guide brothers while my empty plate was on the table, out of the blue, the owner put extra rice on my plate and I had to eat it. I did eat it all because I didn't want to waste my foods. I knew that the foods are so expensive in the Himalayas. 1 kg of rice costs more than 400. They don't waste foods in the Himalayas. After our dinner, we talked for more than 2 hrs while my two trails already went for bed and there was one German trekker listening our entire talks. Later, I told him that he was a good listener and he smiled. Then we all went to bed.
Day 6.
As we had decided to leave early in the morning, I woke up at 5 in the morning and went outside. I found out that it was too dark. I said to myself that how could we go on a time like this! The twinkling stars were still there. Then, I went inside and took time in the toilet. I had problem with constipation. After my morning stuffs, I came to the dinning room in order to have tea and refill my water bottle with hot water and paid my bills. At 6:08 AM, we left for Dharmasala. They seemed unsatisfied with the bills. They asked me:"How much do you pay?". I said to them that I paid Rs. 650. They said loudly:"Just that much!". I said that yes! Then they whispered to eachother. As they were walking slowly, I got ahead of the trail. I made hand gesture that I was going ahead. They said:"Okay!". Then, I took my my pace in order to reach Dharmasala before 10 AM. As I walking for about an hr on my own, I was accompanied by a Nepali guide brother who came first in order to book the room his foreign guests at Dharmasala. I asked him:"Do we get a room too?". He replied that the first priority goes to foreign trekkers but we have to spend night in sharing and it's around Rs. 2500 each if the number increased. After listening his words, I also walked fast to get a room. Then, he got far away. Later, I met 2 Australian trekkers, husband and wife on the way. Together with them, I walked further to our final camp of Himalayas. We were astonished by the views of the trail. Manaslu, the beast and Manaslu North looked so enduring. Along the way, the husband said to me:"I came to climb Larkya La Peak and my wife looks me climbing the mountain". I got so inspired that at this old age also, people live for their dream. I said to him:"wow! That's so impressive. I hope you can make it to the top and best wishes for my side too". Then, their team leader popped in on the trail. After 3 and half hrs of relentless walk, we reached Dharmasala. I was saying to myself that finally, I am ready for the pass. They went to the other tea house and I went to the first one where I requested a room. However, they said to me:"You should check other tea houses for first. Ours had been booked". Before leaving, I requested them that just in case if didn't get one, I would come back here, okay? They said:"it's okay". Then I went to check the second tea house where I was given a hope of having a room. Then, I stayed outside the tea house in the sun. It was so cold. After a while, those two Australian trekkers whom I met on the trail popped in where I was sitting. They came near to me and talked with me. They were so impressed that I was on my own. They shared their names and I shared mine. They were from South Wales, Australia living in the woods with no water supply and electricity. However, they collect rain water and runs their beautiful house by sustainable energy. They shared to me that their neighbors just live 3 kms away from their house. I said to them:"You like quiet place". The husband, John told me that he had been to Nepal long time ago, 30 years ago. He further said that when they first traveled to Dhaulagiri region, the villagers came to greet them in a circle like they had not seen foreign faces before. I said to them:"Oh! Wow! So you have life long connection with Nepal and I love that". He again told me that the memories which he had 30 years ago of Nepal still come to his mind each and every day. I was so impressed with just what he said! It was pretty awesome. His wife told me to have my portrait. I said to her:"We'll hike up hill and take the photos after our lunch". They agreed and I went to kitchen to have tea.
As I was having my tea, I met their expedition leader and other members. I told them to stayed with them in their tent as the tent was big which could accommodate more than 5 people. I took some rest however I didn't take nap. Napping could lead you to have headache in the high altitude. After our lunch at 12:30 PM, I went for acclimatization hike just above the Dharmasala and the expedition leader with his crew members went to the Larkya La Base Camp to keep things like gears and foods. As I was at just about 4700 m, it started to snow and the weather got incredibly bad that I had to come down. The gust was too strong too. At the same time, the trail was so slippery that I slipped away so many times. While I was coming down, I saw John with his wife coming up on the snowy mountain. I told them not to go far up the mountain as the weather got so windy. I then took a rest on the middle of the mountain where the wind was blocked. For about 20 mins, I sat and enjoyed the view with my eyes. As I felt little bit unwell, I came back to the tent. I got a mild headache and thought that I would take medicine. I took time for a decision that whether I should have medicine or not! After a while the expedition team came back to the Dharmasala and they started to boil water inside the tent with their stove. They gave hot water to me also. In order to fill their empty stomach, they cooked hot spicy noodles. They were so kind that they first served it to me. I said to them:"I also have one in my backpack too. Instead of having this, I would cook mine". They said:"No, no! You leave yours for another day". Then, I took a bowl of spicy noodles. It was so spicy that my headache was gone after having it. I felt so much better that I didn't have to take any medicine. Later, in the evening, they shared other foods with me from which I got extra energy for the pass. Sadly, they cancelled their Larkya La Peak Climbing due to bad weather. After talking with them for quite some time, we went for our dinner in the dinning room where all Nepalese trekkers and Sherpas from all across the country gathered for the supper. It was one of the best scenes that you couldn't imagine. Some of the trekkers even captured the moment in their phone. However, I didn't do that because I saved the phone's battery for the Larkya Pass as I didn't have backup. After the dinner, I paid my bills. They charged me a less amount of money. Others were charged just the double of mine. After knowing that I was alone, they charged me less. I was so happy with their kindness. Then, we all went bed early in order to wake up early in the morning. As expedition team had sleeping bags, one of them gave his blanket to me. It was great consolation to me that I got double blankets to cover my body. Tossing and turning, I couldn't sleep well.
Day 7.
Early 3:00 AM, I woke up and packed my backpack and I checked my torchlight. I didn't find it which got me worried. Then, I came out of the tent thanking every one in the tent. I was so surprised to see the galactic arch over the Himalayas. It was awe inspiring!. I was just staring at the starlit sky for a while. Filling up the water bottle with hot water from the kitchen, I took my way to the pass at 3:40 AM. I was saying to myself:"Here we go! Let's walk on the snowy trail above 5000m!". As I lost my torchlight, I was walking with others who had light. Every 10-15 mins of walk, other trekkers used to take rest which made me to go ahead under the starlit sky. I knew that I had to cross the pass before 10 AM, I didn't waste my time. After 2 hrs of hard walk on a snowy trail, I reached Machha Taal, a small lake which was frozen. The steep snowy trail just above the frozen lake was a bit challenging.
At 5:55 AM, I reached Larkya La Base Camp. I saw the expedition crew members at the base camp collecting things back. Leaving them, I took my way to the pass. I didn't worry because there were dozens of trekkers on the pass. While going from base camp, I felt like walking on arctic mountains. The surrounding seemed so familiar. As the sun rose up, the sunlight fell on the snow and reflected back that my eyes couldn't tolerate the brighter light. However, I was just walking, enjoying the best view of the trail. Walking relentlessly for about 4 hrs, I took a rest where 2 other Sherpa brothers were resting. As they were having foods, they shared their foods with me. I said to them:" No! Thank you so much. I have mine". I then took out dried fruits from the pocket and ate them. As I tried to have a bite of chocolate bars, it became so hard that I struggled to eat it. Then, I had water mixed with electrolyte in order to balance the electrolyte in the body. They said that it took us again 20 mins so as to reach the Larkya La Pass. Then, we started our walk again. There were the ones whom I met in tea house of Samdo. Finally, at 7:50 AM, we reached the pass. It was one of the great feelings which I had in the whole trek days. I was saying to myself:"Finally, we made it on the top of the trail, 5160 m above". After spending some time at pass, like taking pictures and videos, suddenly my phone got off and I felt so sad. I thought that my phone lost charge. Then looking around the place for one more time through my eyes, I left for Larkya Phedi at 8:30 AM. Without knowing what the trail looked like, I walked slowly. Now, I had to walk downhill. As the entire mountain was covered snow, it was so challenging to come down. I had to check on every step. The steep trail was awe too dangerous. At the same time, the snow was 2 feet high and so.
The beast inside of me woken up and without any fear, I struggled to come down the snowy mountain. I put all my efforts just to come down one of the dangerous mountains. As I was coming down, I stood for a while and looked back that I saw others were also struggling to come down. Then, one foreign trekker leaving his guide and Sherpa behind came down as fast as possible. It was like he wanted to go first. Then he said to me:"How is it going on man?". I replied:"Awesome! I am having thrilling adventure here on the steep trail". He was impressed that I was on my own. He walked further down as my trekking pole broke down and I had to slow my pace. With so much care, I finally came down. Then, we kept walking on the snowy path but it wasn't dangerous at all. Before the Larkya Phedi, he took a rest and checked on his shoes. I asked him:"where is your camp for today?". He said:"Down the valley, a bit down of Larkya Phedi". I said to him:"Perfect! Oh yes! Bhimthang". Then I left him and walked further down. As I reached Larkya Phedi where there was only one tea house, I put my backpack on the outside table and had my chocolate bars and water. After scouting turquoise Ponkar Tal, lake situated near the Larkya Phedi, I had my cookies and hot water.
Then, looking back all those snow capped mountains for the last time, I left for Bhimthang. I was wondering to myself that wish I could have backup, I would charge my phone and captured all those sceneries in photos and videos. I took a rest for a while as I felt hungry. I said to myself:"Who doesn't! I have walked for 7 hrs already this morning". Then, with extra precaution, I sat on the side of the trail and took out my foods. I ate like a beast in order to fill my voracious appetite. Then, I had energy drinks which my brother bought for the Trek. I was saving them for this day. While having my foods, I was entertained by the Himalayan marmots running here and there. At 10:30 AM, I slowly walked to the Bhimthang which is one of the great places for camping and you could see south face of Manaslu, Manaslu North and other great Himalayan ranges. Most of the trekkers take Bhimthang as their campsite once they pass the Larkya La Pass. When I reached Bhimthang, it was just 11:03 AM and I decided to come down as far as possible. As I was coming down from Bhimthang on the river side, I asked a Sherpa brother who was coming up to the Bhimthang:" How long does it take to reach Gowa?". He then politely said :"Probably 3-4 hrs". As I was refilling my water bottle from the river, he said that the water wasn't drinkable. Suddenly, I threw all the water. He said to me:"You would come across so many streams in the forest and you fill the water from there". I said to him:"Thank you so much Brother! I would do that". Then I walked down. As I didn't see anyone on the trail, I got so worried. It was completely wild which I had not experienced before. I looked down at the forest, and said to myself:"How would we cross this forest trials now?". Then, my mind said:"As long as I am positive, everything will be fine". Taking God's name, I was coming down and I saw a sign board saying, "Welcome To Annapurna Conservation Area....". Then, I got even more afraid. My mind started to think scary stuffs like, "what if wild bears see me, what if leopard see me...". My positive mind said:"You have a trekking pole to scare them off". Other mind interrupted and said:" which is broken haha!". After crossing one of the suspension bridges of ACA, I saw a man sitting on the side of the trail from far. He was carrying wood blocks up to the Bhimthang. After meeting him, I got a hope to go further down the forest as he said that I would meet many trekkers in the forest. I thanked him and went down to the forest. It was one of the wildest forests that I was going through. Despite what the man said, I did not see anyone for hrs. Taking God's name and quoting "As long as I am positive, everything will be fine", I walked for hrs in the the forest full of mossy Himalayan pine trees. The scream of meandering Marsyandhi River down the narrow gorge. I was so anxious to see sign of humans in the forest. However, I didn't see anyone until I reached Yak Kharka, a place where there was only one tea house. I saw 2 foreign female trekkers having cold drinks and their guide. I asked them:"Where is your camp for today?". They said:"Probably Gowa". I asked again:" How long does it take from here?". They replied:" About 3 hrs and so". I said to them:" Thank you so much for the information". Then, I took out my energy drinks and had a sip of it. As they were taking time to leave, I walked from there and met few Sherpas down the forest. Saying Namaste and asking about the time to reach Gowa, I walked again. Knowing that I would see people in the trial, I walked in fast pace. However, I was all alone in the forest. I didn't even refill the water bottle in the forest that I got afraid and thought that it would be the waste of time. I did not want to waste time, even a minute. I was thinking that wasting a minute of time in the forest like that could lead problems...... Imagining that what if I filled the water bottle now and waste a minute of time and later seeing or meeting wild animals by seconds on the trail, I would be in trouble and I would not have any idea to figure it out. The trees looked so wide to climb. The river looked so dangerous and going back up the trial would kill my legs. With just countless thoughts on my mind, I walked further down the forest. As I was crossing the stream, I saw few houses down the trial and realized that I reached Kharche. Then from the stream, I refilled my water bottle and had some icy water. The thirst was great. When I reached Kharche, a small camping site with great views all around, I met Sherpas infront of tea house who were leaving to Dharapani. I asked them:"Where are you going?". They replied:"We are going to Dharapani". I said to them:"How long does it take to reach Dharapani from here?". They said:"2-3 hrs". As they were packing their bags, I walked further down to the Gowa. When I reached Gowa, it was just 2:30 PM and I thought that I would go to Dharapani and I could make it there by 4:00 PM. Then, I decided not to camp in Gowa. As I was passing Gowa, my ultra saving power mode old phone rang. I just saved the charge just to have phone call from home or to make calls. I didn't use the phone to take photos and videos. It was my mother's phone call. I was so happy to talking with her and told her that I was going to Dharapani. Then after few mins of talk, I walked further down in order to reach Dharapani on time. I didn't worry then because the trail seemed wide with sign of humans on the way. After half an hr of walk and asking the time to reach Dharapani with locals on the way, I reached Tilche and crossed the suspension bridge and walked further down. I felt so happy that I was almost there to reach Dharapani. However, I had to walk 2 hrs or so. Finally, at 4:15 PM, I reached Dharapani. As soon as I reached there, I looked for Jeep which goes to Besisahar. It was already late what the locals said to me! I thought that I would camp at Dharapani. Then, 2 jeeps came down from the other side of Manang. I requested them to take me to the Besisahar. But they said that they were already packed with other people. With hope of getting to the Besisahar by the night, I saw a jeep unloading the stuffs near the tea house. I walked near to the jeep and asked the driver:" Are you leaving and do you have a place for me in the jeep?". He said to me:" Yes, we are going to Besisahar and there would be the place for you..!". I did wait for them until they finished the unloading. As the jeep was already reserved by the others, luckily, I got a place in the jeep. There were 3 foreign trekkers with their guide and 3 Sherpas. After 4 hrs of off road ride, we reached Besisahar at 7:55 PM. Luckily, the guide brother took me to their lodge where they were staying and I felt more comfortable and safe. Later that night, they celebrated their final night with their guests. However, they were unsatisfied with the tips. I suggested them while we were talking that not to have any expectation from anyone and if you do, it hurts when it doesn't work out. The foreign trekkers gifted their clothes to the Sherpas. That night, I had gastric problem that I skipped my lunch in the morning. I only had cookies, dried fruits, energy drinks and water. After having my foods, just a less amount, I went to bed. Before bed, I made phone call to my home and told them that I would be home next day by 1-2 PM.
Day 8.
Early 5:30 in the morning, I woke up, packed my backpack, thanked the guide brother and the Sherpa brothers and after my morning stuffs, I left for Besisahar counter. I took the ticket and did wait for the Jumbo Hiace. Then, 6:10 AM, I left for Kathmandu. After 6 hrs, I reached Kathmandu and my brother took me home from Kalanki on his motorcycle.
Having no medicine, challenging extremity for 2 days in an immensely wild landscapes, experiencing six climatic zones: tropical, sub-tropical, temperate, sub-alpine, alpine and arctic, reaching the highest point of the trail, gazing on the glorious landscapes, having same foods with different taste, cleansing with hundreds of waterfalls, witnessing some of the great Himalayan ranges of the world including 8th highest mountain, Manaslu, walking from river trails to snowy immense slope trials, from passing dozens of landslides to crossing more than dozens of suspension bridge, from getting lost to making dozens of new trail friends, ......, I completed one of my thrilling adventures, Manaslu Circuit Trekking. A week of spiritual journey was worthwhile to remember for the rest of my life.
Bonus Images:
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