Soloing Phulchoki

IN an unfathomed forest of Phulchoki, which is believed to be evolved in mesozoic era, I remained for more than 5 hrs, walking quietly up and down, photographing and climbing among the surrounding mountains covered with snow. Phulchoki furnishes an equally interesting example of wilderness wholly, or in part, by wide range of flora and fauna and in every direction, the landscape stretched out sublimely away in fresh wildness--- a manuscript written by the hand of Nature alone.

It all started with an obsession of walking. On a chilly morning of February 5, 2022, I woke up late and after my morning stuffs, I looked around from our terrace. I saw all the hills and mountains of the Kathmandu valley covered with snow. And I decided to hike Phulchoki, one of the care killing trails of the valley which stretches out 13 km from the base of the mountain. 

However, I already hiked this trail with my friend on last December, 2021 when first snowfall of the season hit the valley. With an urge to explore and experience the wilderness that the trail offers, I went on a solo hike.

Then, after my lunch at 11:15 AM, I walked out from my home (Chapagaun) to the Phulchoki Summit, which is about 20 km away that is equivalent to 12.42 miles from my home. As I had to walk back and forth, about 24.84 miles, I didn't waste my time here and there. After walking about 30 mins, I reached Taukhel, neighborhood of Chapagaun. Then, I took a bus that goes to Godawari in order to save 30 mins of my time. [If I walked from Taukhel to Godawari through Peace Mountain, it could take 30 mins or more]. However, I thought that I could use that amount of time to reach the summit on time.

It just took 3 mins to reach Godawari Bus park from Taukhel by bus. Then, I looked at time that it was 12:08 PM. As snowfall was so much that I saw so many people hustling at the bus park with zeal to enjoy in the snow. 

I realised that I had to walk another 13 km to reach the summit. When I reached Godawari, I already had mild headache and felt so much hungry that I took the fruit juice from the backpack and had a sip of it. Then, I took chocolate bite. And, I slowly walked uphill through the forest path, which is so wild and raw that we need guts to explore solo. 

The forest of Phulchoki is so magnificent that we define nature as we walk through the forest. Being one of the last remnants of sub tropical forest in Nepal, it's the most tranquil place of the valley where we find peace and color our heart.

Then, after walking 5 km of an entire 13 km trail, I saw flakes of snow on the road and I felt so much excited in a good way. Furthermore, I took a pace to walk uphill. I was afraid that my headache would be intense but after having chocolate, juice and water, it stopped my headache. 

As there were other hikers too, I didn't worry about the wild surroundings. I know that soloing this trail other times would be dangerous. We may encounter wild bears and boars.

As I didn't care about other hikers what they were doing on the trail, I focused on reaching the summit. Moreover, with so much snow, about 2-3 feet, the beaten track was so much slippery to walk. At that same time, it was challenging to walk and I didn't use any shortcut. We could lose stamina to reaching out the top of the mountain.

As I reached the higher elevation, the pocket of fog lingered the mountain. That fleeting moment which I was looking for, was remained for few minutes. Then, I indulged in solitude, finding a peace in silence. At that point of the trail, I didn't see anyone, just me and wild surroundings. It meant a lot to me in a good way. That was my moment of zen.

However, I got scared too and it was obvious. But, with so much determination, I reached the summit, after walking 3 hrs 30 minutes from the bottom of the mountain. The winding road of the Phulchoki is so much challenging, (Difficulty Rating-5).

Due to low visibility, I didn't spend much time on the summit. After my prayers at the temple, I walked back in search of a place where I could have my snacks. [On the summit, there is a teahouse which offers mainly tea and other snacks]. As there were other hikers having their tea and snacks, I didn't want to go there. I came a little bit down to have my snacks and tea which I took from home. 

Then after finishing my snacks, I walked slowly for a while in order to have few minutes on higher altitude. It was something like acclimatization of the body. Then, I did trail run up to 10 km. 3 km, I had to walk. When I was about to reach the bottom of the mountain, I had so much pain in my leg, downhill knee problem. Finally, I successfully came down the mountain. It was already 5:30 PM when I reached down the mountain, brother did make phone call to me and I said that "I am at Godawari waiting for bus and take me home from Taukhel". But he said; "You be there and I am coming to pick you up." It was such a huge relief to me. Otherwise, I was about to take a bus upto Taukhel and walked back for another 45 minutes to reach HOME.

Then I did wait for my brother at Godawari Bus park. He came to pick me up on his motorbike. At first, he scolded me not to hike Phulchoki alone......

I appreciated the way my brother told me. It's one of the dangerous places of the valley. Anything could happen in the forest. I, actually thought there would so many people on the trail like it used to be on last hike with my friend. Yes, there were so many people on the trail but, as I reached higher elevation, I came across with few people only. At some point, I thought I should go back. It was so scary when the fog engulfed the path.

When I reached home, I felt so much cold and I sat in front of fire for about an hour or two. Then, I filled my day's appetite with so much foods and had hot water with thyme seeds. It does take care of our lungs and keeps us away from cold. Next day, I was on full day rest. 

[This hike taught me a lesson that how hard it is to reach our goal in life! But with strong determination and dedication, we can do anything in life]. 

[When we stay close to the nature, we care our forest, our hills, our mountains with love].