Here for the first time I climbed rocky mountains in all their perfection of purity and spirituality,—a gentle trekker, perhaps mountaineer face to face with the stormy sky, kept safe and warm by a thousand miracles. I leaped lightly from rock to rock, glorifying in the eternal freshness and sufficiency of Nature, and in the ineffable tenderness with which she nurtures her mountain darlings in the very fountains of bluster. Fresh beauty appeared at every step, delicate rock-mosses, and groups of the fairest flowers.
[.......]After completing LCT together with my cousin brothers, I decided to do Gosainkunda Trek on my own two feet. They went home after getting some physical problems. My story began after we separated from Bamboo where we took our last lunch together. Then, I walked further down the Bamboo to the point where Gosainkunda Trail starts from LCT.
As I was coming down, I looked for some stones on the banks of Langtang river to take home as souvenir before I went to Gosainkunda Trail. While looking for stone, I saw a man, younger than me approaching towards me. I asked him that where was he heading to? He replied that he was going to Thulo Syapru. Then, I smiled and said that I was also going to the same place where he was heading. Awesome, I felt great that I didn't have to walk alone through the wild steep mountain trail. Then, we walked together through the steep uphill trial for about an hour until we found a teahouse residing on the edge of the mountain. We took a rest and I bought a bottle of soft drinks for him. I took a bottle of water. Luckily, he knew everyone from the teahouse that they offered a tea for him. But, he refused it and said that he would have it next time. We stayed there for about 20 mins. We talked about Trekking in Nepal, specially LCT and Gosainkunda with other guides who were also trekking to Gosainkunda with their foreign guests. While talking with them, they were so impressed by my walking pace and said that I could make it to the Gosainkunda in 7-8 hrs from Thulo Syapru. I was inspired by their words. Then leaving the teahouse, we left for Thulo Syapru. Along the way, he told me about the trail route that goes to Cholangpati from Mulkharka. He also told me about the other route to Cholangpati from Sing Gompa but, it's a long way to reach there. While crossing the suspension bridge, an old man with 'Khukuri' on his belly approached towards us and said that; "Have you guys seen a buffalo on the way?". We said that "no! we had not seen any cow or buffalo". The oldman looked so sad and thought that it might had fallen from the cliff. We felt sorry for him. Then, we crossed the bridge and left for Thulo Syapru. Along the way, we witnessed more than dozens of Rhododendrons and pine trees. I didn't take the photos and videos as many as I could because I was struggling to walk uphill. Damn! I thought that I couldn't walk with his pace. He has awe, too great walking pace. Then, we reached our destination, Thulo Syapru and took a rest on the front yard of the teahouse. We washed our face and walked further up. On the way, he asked me a question that, "are you married?". I said that no!. He thought that I am just about 24-25 years old. He shared things of his life with me that he was from Okhaldhunga and got married at young age after his father died at his young age. He further said that his visit to Thulo Syapru was to find a job so that he could give better life to his family and children. He said that he used to work as a cook in one of the teahouses for a long time....Then, we separated and he walked to his destination and I walked further up to find a hotel to stay. I said him; "Thank you for your company along the way!".
As I was walking up, a woman shouted at me and asked me; where was I heading to?. I said her that I was going to Gosainkunda and I was looking for a hotel to stay. She offered me to stay in their hotel. I negotiated with the price that I would give Rs 1000. Then, I stayed in their newly renovated Tibetan Buddhist style hotel. I was impressed by the Buddhist painting on the wall. I took my stuffs to the room and asked her to have a cup of hot water for me. Later, I had a tea and snacks. Then, I made phone calls to my cousin brothers and home that I reached Thulo Syapru and I took a nap for about an hour. Then, I went down the dinning room and had a dinner with her husband. They were so kind that they offered me so many foods on my plate. But I refused to have all and said that I had stomach problem after having foods of Langtang Valley. Then after our dinner, we talked for about an hour. They shared most of the things about Tourism in Nepal. They had hard times when COVID 19 hit the country. Then, we talked about Kathmandu valley. They said that they don't like Kathmandu any more because of record breaking pollution and the increasing population. They said that they hardly visit to the hospital like in a year or two, however, if they live in Kathmandu, they would have to visit hospital in a month or two. I said them that it's true and as long as you expose to the polluted place, you could have health problems. Then, I asked him to show the route in my phone. He showed me the same route that the young man told me before on the way....Thulo Syapru to Mulkharka to Cholangpati. After an hour of gossips, I went to sleep. After all, I was so tired from a day of walking up and down the mountains.
[Though Kathmandu valley is the only largest city of the Himalayan Kingdom, we have failed to save the most fertile land of the valley. Larger the city, larger is the requirements. Larger the city, larger is the scale of pollution. Larger the city, largest it wants to be. Ultimately, it leads to the destruction of natural resources.]
After a good night of sleep, March 23, on a cold morning, I woke up at 6:30 AM and got ready for soloing Gosainkunda. I said goodbye to them and took my way at 7:30 AM. At some point, I was worried that if I got lost in the unknown mountains, what would I do? Despite my worries, I stepped forward and took a long journey up the trail after my morning tea and making phone call to my parents.
As I walked for 5 mins, I saw 2 roads and got confused that which one that I should take! Then, I checked my offline map and waited for few seconds that if I saw anyone passed by that I could ask for help. Then, after a few seconds, a saw a man who was an army, walking towards me. I asked him for help to show me the way to Mulkharka. Then, he showed me the way. We talked with eachother for couple of mins and he even walked with me until he reached his army check post which was just a minute away. Then, I took the mountain trail to the Mulkharka. After a few minutes of walk, I again saw 2 roads- one goes to Sing Gompa and other one goes to Mulkharka. Although, Sing Gompa leads to the Cholangpati, I took the way that connects the Mulkharka which later leads to Cholangpati. It's the shortcut to the Cholangpati. I walked further up until I reached the small village. A young man yelled at me from his yard and said; "brother, are you walking alone?". I said; "Yes, I am walking on my own to Mulkharka, then I go to Cholangpati and Gosainkunda". Then, his wife carrying a baby on her back from the front yard said; "come here, have some tea and leave". I said them with honesty; "I have had my tea, down at Thulo Syapru and thank you for asking me to have tea". Then as soon as I left, I met other man who had to Kathmandu valley and worked in the neighborhood of my hometown for a long time and said; "are you coming alone". I said that yes! I had to make it on my own.........
I felt so much sad after seeing their houses made of zinc plates. It would be so hot in summer and so cold in the winter. They seemed so poor that they couldn't buy good clothes and other needs. Even if they were poor, they had kind heart and I was so much inspired by their kind words of asking me to have a tea in their house. As I already had my tea, I didn't take anything and at the same time, I didn't want to waste my time for good reason. So, I walked further on my track. While going up, I talked to myself that life is truly difficult in the remote places of Nepal and I wish I could help them. Then, I reached other village and there were few houses and teahouses. The settlement is less in Mulkharka. But I didn't see any trekker on the way. I thought that I might have been so early to walk this route.
Now, my real challenge began. I took a rest on the side of the trail where there was a stupa and the trail leads to the forest around 9:00 AM. As so many things were on my mind, I talked to myself like wild forest, wild animals, wild flowers, and wild me. Before taking the forest trail, I took some biscuits and hot water to rehydrate my brain and body. Then, unlike my fear, I slowly took my way, listening bird songs and bell chimes, hanged on buddhist prayer flags. After a minute of walking through the narrow steep path, I heard the sound of bells. It was coming from the bells that were hanged on the neck of donkeys. I saw a man with his donkeys coming down the forest. A man asked me to have tea and snacks or lunch in his cottage which was situated just few mins away from where we met. He further said; "Don't forget to visit my cottage!". I said that I would do that. Thank you! I further walked up. Then, I didn't see anyone for the first time in the wild forest. There was a lot of wilderness. I got terrified with the surroundings. I took a GOD'S name and I walked further uphill. Then, I saw 2 roads diverged in the woods. I was not sure which one that I should take. I was terribly afraid that I had to go away from that place and waiting someone would take time. I took my phone and checked my offline map. GPS was already on and tracked myself. I was in the world of wilderness. I walked for about a minute through the small narrow path in the forest. Then, I realized that I took the wrong way. I ran backwards and took the second one that goes further up the mountain. Tracking myself with the phone, I walked further up through the forest. Then, I reached Mulkharka where I saw 2 cottages. I was told to visit one of the cottages and I did. But unfortunately, I didn't take anything because having something would take time and it was already late. I first saw a Himalayan dog having sun bath in the premises and as I am afraid of dogs, I didn't go inside the premises. Instead, I waited the owner to come out from the house. Then, a woman came out and I asked her about the trail that goes to Cholangpati. She offered me to have things to eat. I said that it would be late if I stayed here for lunch and it was already 9:30 AM. Then, she showed me the way from the back of her cottage and told me to stick with the trail in the forest. I thanked her for showing me the way and I walked in the alpine forest. It was uphill trail and covered with the morning fog.
Looking at the coniferous forest, my heart pumped up like never before. I felt sad that what if my cousin brothers were with me, it would so nice. I was talking to myself. How would I make my hike to the Cholangpati! I had a sip of water from the bottle and chocolate on the side of the route. Then, knowing fear is the greatest enemy of all, I took my way into the forest with my 5 senses active. I didn't look at the back. At the same time, I didn't spend time taking photos and videos of the wild surroundings. It would be so bad to get distracted. Who knew, anything could happen in the wild! As I walked uphill, I saw chunk of snow flakes all around. With the melting of snow, the trail got so much slippery and I didn't want to get slipped and broke my legs. With my trekking pole, I walked up slowly as I knew that reaching out high elevation in a short period of time, could have High Elevation Sickness. As I walked into deeper, I talked to myself again that this was it, mother nature wanted to know who I was in the wild! Eyes were straight forward, and I walked continuously until I found a bamboo pole hanging buddhist prayer flags where I took a rest for having water and biscuits. I was so nervous at that time that I couldn't find my biscuits in the backpack. I thought that my brain wasn't working properly. I was so much overwhelmed by the wild surroundings. "What if I chased big cat in the lofty mountain, what would I do? Where would I go?" These things intrigued my mind while I was having my biscuits. So, I quietly unwrapped packet of biscuits in order to prevent the noise in the wild. I realized that for the first time in my entire life, I experienced that quiet moment with the wild surrounding, a complete silence, nothing at all.
Then after having water and biscuits, I looked at offline map where I was tracking my route and myself. It showed me that I still had to walk 45 mins to reach Cholangpati. Keeping my thoughts and prayers, I went up and up in the alpine forest where every tree branch was covered with mosses and even the landscape was covered with them. The unfamiliar territory scared me a lot that I didn't even see any sign of human. I even started to hate the bird songs. The songs were so unfamiliar that I had not heard before. It was so sharp and penetrating sound. I thought that they were warning signals whenever they feel threatened by seeing someone or something in the forest. Then, I walked even more deeper in the forest. At that moment, I thought of my family and friends. I had to think of them. So that, I could move ahead and wished that they were here with me. I wouldn't have to feel that much scared....
With my purpose of praying and lighting up the butter lamps at Gosainkunda temple, I stayed focused to reach my goal, no matter what! I checked my tracking and walked further up the mountain trail. I didn't capture any footage in the camera frame because of the wild surroundings. At the same time, I was all alone. Then, I checked my tracking again and looked up the mountain. I felt so much excited now that I saw a roof of a house. I walked fast in order to reach there. Finally, I reached Cholangpati and I took a long breath. It was only the teahouse of Cholangpati. In an entire 4 hrs, I didn't see any trekker on the trail.
I ordered for hot tea first and then took my lunch. I had to eat fast in order to save my time. In the mean time, I asked the owner of the teahouse;"how much time does it take to reach Gosainkunda?" Son of the owner replied that, it took around 3-4 hrs to reach there. Then, I asked them to keep some of my things there and I would back to take them. They said that Okay! You would not forget to take them. I took all my foods out besides a packet of biscuits and chocolate bars and rolled them with my towel and kept inside the tea house. While getting ready, a foreign tourist came at the tea house from Sing Gompa. He asked me that where was I heading to. I replied that I was going up to the Gosainkunda. I asked him; "would you like to come? It's just 3-4 hrs away from here." He said that he would have knee problem, going uphill. I said; "it's okay! No worries". We said goodbye along with fist bumps.
Then, my part II story began in the main trail of Gosainkunda. I thought that I didn't have to worry now. I was in the main trail. As soon as I left the tea house, I saw fog all around the mountains. At the same time, the wind was powerful that I wore 2 jackets, caps and spectacles in order to prevent the hitting of wind on my forehead, eyes and chest. The trail path was maintained with concretes upto Laurebinak. I walked up non stop until I reached Laurebinak. I took a rest for a while at the front yard of one of the oldest hotels, which was closed. I knew that reaching high altitude in short amount of time could have HAS. Then, I started to walk the Laurebinak Pass, one of the challenging passes to cross. After few minutes of walking, I took a rest for one more time at the front yard of another hotel, which was open. The only hotel which was open at Laurebinak. I took a packet of an electrolyte and mixed with water. I had sip of it. It tasted too salty. I took another water bottle and put some water in it. Then, I took another sip of it. While taking a rest, I saw few people walking up the mountain. There were like ant size from down.
Despite the harsh weather, I walked further up with a strong determination to cross the pass. I knew that the weather is unpredictable in the mountains. A few minutes ago, every mountain was covered with fog, was now visible. As I walking, I met a group of trekkers. They said that it was snowing in the Gosainkunda. I asked them ;"how long does it take now?". They replied that it would take 2-3hrs. I said that thank you so much for letting me know. As the trail was covered with snow, I had to walk carefully with the support of stick. Then, I walked further up and the landscape changed. I witnessed huge rocky mountains which I had not seen before and walked through the trail which is made on the edge of the mountain. Passing through the beaten road, I met 3 devotees, an oldman and 2 women, probably daughters. They were taking rest on the edge of the mountain and having snacks. I also took a rest with them. They offered me their foods and energy drinks to have. I said them;"Thank you! I have mine in the backpack." Then I took out my chocolate bars and cold drinks and had them. We talked for a while. I asked them;"are you coming here for worshipping Gosainkunda?". They replied that they had come to worship Gosainkunda and put prayers flags around the lake. They asked that why was I coming alone? I said them that I had to come alone after my cousin brothers left for home. Then, after few minutes of rest, we left for Gosainkunda. As I saw glimpse of lake, my heart pumped up that I reached Gosainkunda. I asked them; "is it Gosainkunda?". They said;"no,it's Bhairabkunda. Gosainkunda lies just above it." Leaving them behind, I walked further from the edge of the cliff. Then, I met another group of young trekkers who were coming back from Gosainkunda. They said that it was snowing on the lake and its was 5 mins away from here now. They asked me;"are you alone?". I replied;"Yes, I had to make it alone". They said again;"You are almost there and the weather would be changed frequently. You might be lucky to get clear visibility of the lake". Thanking them, I walked further until I got clear visibility of Bhairabkunda. Then, I reached the world's most devoted place on earth, Gosainkunda. Various Hindu scriptures refer to Samudra Manthan, which is directly related to the origin of Gosaikunda. The lake is believed to have been created by Lord Shiva when he thrust his trident into a mountain to extract water so that he could cool his burning throat after swallowing poison during Samudra Manthan.
Then, at 3:00 PM, I came back without taking anything in the teahouse. I thought that it might be late if I stayed for tea and snacks. I did trail run until I reached Buddha Temple at Laurebinak Pass. Then, as I was slowly coming down the snowy trail of that pass, I got a phone call from my mother. I said her that I reached Gosainkunda and I was coming down now. I even said her that She did not have to worry now and would call her later. Then, I did trail run again, taking care of myself on the bleary trail. I met a solo trekker at the pass and said him that you were 2-3 hrs away to reach Gosainkunda. He said that he would stay in Laurebinak Pass. I told him that one of the hotels was closed and he would have to reach top in order to stay. I said that he would try. Then we said goodbye and he went up and I came down. Again, I did run as I had to reach down as far as possible. Then, I made a group of young trekkers, both boys and girls. I told them to get a hotel as soon as po We said hello and they asked me:"how long does it take to reach Laurebinak Pass?". I said that you guys were just few mins away, and almost there. Then another group of trekkers came up and asked me the same question. I said them that it would take about 30 mins. As I left them, I met the group of young trekkers whom I met few hrs ago at Gosainkunda. I said them:"We meet again". One of them said to me that they met me yesterday on the trail. Other friends laughed at him and said:"We just met few hours ago. Did you forget?" AHH, ahh! He said that he got it now. Along with them, I came down slowly. We talked a lot about Trekking and they told me that one of their friends had HAS symptoms while reaching higher elevation. They were impressed by my walking pace. I told them that I never compare my walk with Sherpas of Himalayas. They are Heroes of the Mountain. I told them that I was alone and focused on walk. That's why, I covered long distance in just short period of time. Then, we reached Cholangpati where I had lunch in the morning. As the group were there for few minutes, I took my stuffs from the tea house and said:"Thank you so much and Namaste!"
Now, I took the other way, left side, to the Dhimsa as I thought of staying for a night. Through the alpine forest, I came down all alone again. But, I got that group of young boys on the trail. They walked pretty slow and we walked together until we reached Dhimsa. They bought few pounds of cheese from the cheese factory and we waited for other friends who were left behind. They also took cheese. But, I didn't buy anything as I already bought it from Langtang. As it was already 5:30 PM, I said that we wouldn't stay here at Dhimsa and we could make it Deurali as we had time before it got dark. Then, with one of their friends, I left for Deurali. We walked further down the forest trail and we lost them back. I felt sad as their friend got separated. Then, we walked down steep trail. We even had to walk with torch light until we reached Deurali. There were other group of trekkers who were walking with torch light too. We told them that they could make their journey to Dhimsa before it got night and rain. As we reached Deurali, we looked for a tea house to stay. Then, we spent our night in a tea house. As I was having gastric problem, I couldn't eat well. But, I took a lot of hot water. In the meantime there were other trekkers who made a lot of noise and we couldn't sleep. We were talking that they would see tomorrow how hard to reach Gosainkunda. (Bed rest is more important than the rest we take on the trail).
After a disturbing night, I woke up early, 6:00 AM. I took my morning tea and left for Dhunche at 7:00 AM to take a bus to Kathmandu of 8:30 AM. Before leaving, I said him goodbye and told him to say sorry to his friends that you guys had to separate. Then, I walked 1 hr 30 mins down in order to reach Dhunche. As soon as I reached Dhunche, I saw a bus moving that was leaving for Kathmandu. I almost missed it. I ran after the bus with hand gesture, wait, wait wait. Finally, it stopped for me. With 8 hrs of bus ride, I reached Kathmandu and my brother took me home from Kalanki on his motorbike.
This is how I finished Gosainkunda Trek. I did not feel any proud doing it solo because there were other trekkers too, who were on solo trek. But, I was so much content with the trek. I got a chance to witness and feel places of Nepal. I did fulfill my purpose, foremost. With this trek, I learned to take risk in life, in a good way. I learned who I was in the mountains! I learned to live life with nature to get a huge impact on my life. Our mind and body need shower of wilderness unless we are outdoor enthusiasts. To be honest, this trek made my life even more nurtured in so many ways. It has improved my physical and mental health immensely. Spending hours on the trail, being in the wild alpine forest, walking ascending rocky mountains etc improved my strength, agility and fitness. Now, rewinding every wild thing of the trek, I feel mountains each and every day. In this life, we've so much more to see and accomplish. I hope to conquer mighty mountains of Nepal in the future!
