Search This Blog

Thursday, January 6, 2022

Hike To The Phulchoki Summit


THERE is always something deeply exciting, not only in the wilderness of the forest in the mountains, which exert more or less influence over every mind, but in their varied wilderness as manifested by the change in season especially those of mountains in winter. The evergreen forest of the Phulchoki Mountain is indescribably impressive and sublime, but the native Himalayan high altitude oak trees seem to me the best interpreters of the mountain. They are mighty, ever in tune, singing and writing tree-music all their long century lives. Little, however, of these noble trees and their music will you see or hear in the strictly higher elevation of the mountain (above 2650 m).

© Nirpesh Sharma

I had long been looking from the city that never sleeps and at last, all draw-backs overcome, a friend of mine and I set forth on the second last day of December, 2021, on a 10 mile walk (Chapagaun-Phulchoki Summit) to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level.




As it rained so heavily in the valley on last week of December, 2021, it snowed in the mountains(Phulchoki, Dhunche, Chandragiri, Radar Station, Shivapuri, etc) and a good friend of mine called me on a phone requesting to hike Phulchoki, highest point on the rim of the Kathmandu valley. As I am so much obsessed with walking, I said "yes" to his request.

Early in the morning on December 30, we confirmed our hike again. Then, we set our journey after lunch. However, to manage our time, we rode our bike till 6 km of an entire 13 km trial (Godawari-Phulchoki). Moreover, we parked our bike on the side of the beaten road and walked uphill at 12:55 pm, taking one of the longest forest baths so far. Because of first snowfall of the season, the trail was packed with so many hikers, both young and old. Who didn’t want to play with snow!

       


However, we didn’t go to play with the snow. In fact, we went to experience the snowy trial and to reach the top of the summit on time. As we walked for few mins, we started seeing snow all around. The trial was fully covered with snow and the walk had become more challenging. But with strong determination, we walked non-stop using shortcuts and main trail. However, shortcuts were so much difficult to walk as they were so much slippery.



To be honest, the trail is endlessly wild. The  greatest  number of  tree species  was  found  in  the  low  altitude  (1600  m), followed  by  intermediate  altitude  (1950  m).The  highest  altitude  (above 2650 m)  contained  only  one distinct  tree  species (Oak). The low altitude has higher species diversity and dominated  by  Castonopsis indica which has common name called chinquapin or chinkapin from Fagaceae family, Quercus  glauca, a ring cupped oak, Myrica  esculenta, box berry and  myrsine  capitellate, common name not known yet, etc. The intermediate altitude has  average species diversity and dominated  by Rhododendron arboretum, Castanopsis tribuloides and Quercus incana (oak). The forest of the higher altitude is entirely dominated  by  Quercus  semicarpifolia,  a  high  altitude  Oak.


Then, the trail was engulfed by the fog, and the walk had become even more interesting. In that moment, we were seeing through the eyes of a child. It reminded me one of my hikes that I did where I had to walk alone from the top of the mountain to the bottom when the entire trail was covered with day time fog. It was one of my scariest moments of my life.



With so much rain and snow, we saw many fallen tree branches on the trail blocking our way. It was so much intriguing to see the snow resting on the tree branches. Without wasting our time, we walked to the top of the mountain steping on the snow. The thickness of the snow was just about 2-3 inches which was less than we previously expected. As we walked up the mountain through winding road, the scenery had changed.



Everything (shrubs, trees, trail) was covered with snow. We now saw Himalayan oak trees. And it meant that we had hit the higher elevation of the mountain. I was so impressed to see those oak trees holding snow on their branches and leaves. It was one of my favorite moments. Then for the last time, we took the longest shortcut trail in order to manage our time. And I had to walk very slowly because; I was having heavy backpack filled with hot water, tea, normal water and snacks. When I looked up the mountain, my friend had gone too far otherwise I could pass the backpack. When, I reached the main trail, I felt so much exhausted and tired that I wanted to throw my backpack. It was one of the difficult steep shortcuts. As we burnt so many calories, we took a chocolate bites and water and felt heavenly. You could have voracious appetite in the mountains. Then, with normal pace, we walked again seeing everything around us. Then, we reached an ancient pond of the Phulchoki covered with snow . After walking another 2 km from the pond, we reached the summit. Finally, we registered our names to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level. However, my friend had already been here several times with his friends in the past years. We spent just few mins on the summit, did prayers at Phulchoki Temple which is dedicated to Phulchoki Bhawani and attracts many people all around the year. An emperor's picturesque Panaromic view from the top of the Phulchoki is so much lofty as different Himalayan ranges like Annapurna, Manaslu, Himalchuli, Ganesh, Langtang, Rolwaling, and Gaurishankar can be seen. Wish I could stay here all my life!






After spending few mins on the summit where other hikers were having good times singing and dancing with Nepali retro folk rock songs like "हिउँ पर्यो फुरुरु हिमाली भेगैमा", हिमाल चुचुरे, सुन्दर शान्त नेपाल, etc., we headed back down as we felt cold breeze. Then we took our snacks and tea on the side of the snowy road. After filling up our empty stomach, we walked down taking the main trail. We didn't prefer to walk the shortcuts. We even did trail run on a snowy track. It was one of the best things which we did. We more often do trail run on our hike. For more than 7 Kms, we did trail run without missing the views that the mountain offers. Then, we reached the point where we parked our bike and left for home. While coming down the mountain, we witnessed the forest illuminating with evening light, golden light.


© Nirpesh Sharma

We were so happy with our hike that we actually nailed it in just 5 hrs. It was perfect end of 2021. We suggest that as Phulchoki hike is one of the best acclimatization hikes, you should hike this mountain before trekking to Himalayan regions of Nepal.





Wednesday, November 24, 2021

Radar Station Hike, Acclimatization Hike

The sustained grandeur of the Kathmandu valley is strikingly illustrated by the surrounding lush hills and mountains. However, one big question mark comes in our mind whenever we hike these mountainsides that can we keep these lushness of the valley for our children, for another century?



Great thoughts are conceived when we walk in the wilderness. With countless thoughts on my mind, I did a solo hike around the southern mountains of the valley dated October 30, 2021. Radar station hike could be acclimatization hike for those who wants to hike upper elevation i.e. above 2300 m above the sea level. If you hike this place more than once, you could acclimatize above elevation for a month or two.



With good walking pace, I started my hike at 11 O'clock, from my house, Chapagaun and took the same native trails that lead to the Charghare where suspension bridge joins two villages. After crossing the bridge, I took the narrow forest way that goes to the Tikabhairav. I always admire this forest path since childhood. As far as I know, this path was made more than 500 years ago. It was a portal for a trade between remote villages of southern Lalitpur with Kathmandu valley. Now, with construction of motorway up the mountain, this path is less walk by and wilderness thrives here. 



Then after 7-10 mins of trail run through wild forest, I reached Tikabhairav. This place is so much polluted. It doesn't have good air quality. With ongoing rock extraction, this place has lost its true color even the river in which once used to flow crystal clear water has become polluted. The construction of motorway on the bank of the river is one of the reasons for the pollution of the river and responsible for the extinction of many species of fish.



Then I walked uphill to reach the Radar Station which is made on the top of the mountain, 2300 m elevation from sea level. To reach the top of the mountain, we actually have to pass Kote Danda and Tinpane Bhanjyang. After walking non stop for almost an hour from Tikabhairav, I reached Tinpane Bhanjyang. I actually used shortcut way to reach Tinpane. 

Kote Danda is a small village on the lap of foothills from where you see an emperor's view of the valley and the Himalayan ranges on a clear day. It's famous for "Lapsi", a fruit also known as hog plum which is native to Nepal. Well, I saw many of these plants on the way. But, the fruits are not ripened yet and I didn't eat. Actually, it tastes so good when you eat it. The salivary glands produce so much saliva when you taste it. It helps in digestion of foods as well as in fat burn. 




As I walked uphill, I felt very cold with thin air. And then I had to wear my jacket. When I reached Tinpane, it was already 2:00 pm. I realized that, to come here on foot, it takes 3 hrs. Without wasting my time at Tinpane, I walked another 30 mins uphill to reach the top of the mountain. 


I didn't see anyone hiking this place. But, it's packed with people at times when it snows. Few years back, it had massive snowfall.
When I reached the top, I enjoyed sight seeing. Unbelievable, the station offers magnificent 360 degree view. Himalayan ranges like Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Dorje Lakpa I, II, Gaurisankar, Himalchuli can be seen from different perspective. 


Unfortunately, this time, my phone lost all the battery charges and got switched off. I couldn't able to capture all the sceneries that the mountain offers. However, I captured few images and the videos from the other phone. Hopefully, I will go back next time with full preparation. Anyway, the hike was worthwhile in so many ways. 




After sight seeing, I had my snacks under the alpine tree. The top of the mountain has different species of alpine trees. It was so quiet that I had to finish my snacks as fast as possible. The wilderness is so much challenging. I didn't want to see any wild animals at that time. 






As soon as I finished my snack, I did trail run to come down the mountain. I thought running would be better to come down. It took me around 8 mins to come down. Why I did trail run? It's because, the forest which the big chunk of mountain has, is so wild. It changes its weather within mins. Anytime, daytime fog engulfs the mountain which arises fear in our mind. Secondly, it has cemetery in the middle of the mountain which even more pumps our heartbeat so fast when we pass it alone.

Then, when I reached down at Tinpane, I walked non stop for almost 1 and half to reach Charghare where my brother was waiting with his motorbike to take me home. I didn't have any leg problem on this hike, not even headache or any physical problem. Despite having good photos and videos, I enjoyed a lot in the mountains. Southern hills and mountains of the valley is strikingly stunning for day hike. I admire if my friends go for hike. The hike would be so much inspiring. But, do not throw your trashes in the mountains which I never do. I take my trashes back home. 

To sum it up, I take every hike as one of the ecotherapies, a range of nature based activity that can help our physical and mental well-being in so many ways. It gives me structure, makes me utilise the daylight and get out of bed. It gives me something outside of myself to nurture and look after and that helps me to better look after myself.





 















Friday, September 10, 2021

Dhunche Hike

Among the many unlooked-for treasures that are bound up and hidden away in the depths of Kathmandu valley solitudes, none more surely charm and surprise all kinds of travelers. The forests and the mountains and the wandering streams advertise their wealth in a more or less telling manner even in the distance, but nothing is seen of the valley until we have traversed them. 

It all started with a request. A friend of mine, Nirpesh requested for a hike around western mountains. Undeniably, I said yes to his request. Back in days, we did several hikes and travels together. Due to the travel restrictions, we felt stagnated at home. To escape from our daily routine, we went on a day hike around western mountains of the valley. And, we successfully completed "Dhunche Hike" together. The trial is popularly known as Champadevi Trial. 


With little group chat, we finalized our hike. Unfortunately, a friend couldn't make it because of his dentist's appointment. Then, we (Nirpesh, Eliza and her friend) decided to go to make our day. 



Four of us went on our motorbike and scooter to Taudaha, one of the biggest lakes around the valley. Then we took another way that leads to Champa Devi Temple, situated on the lap of huge mountain. We parked our motorbikes on the side of the road and headed west up the mountain. 


With so much determination and excitement, we walked uphill. While going up, we were already astonished by the view. The view of the valley looks spectacular from there. The concrete valley is no longer the same as it was before. All the arable land and open spaces of the valley are turning into a housing and corporate buildings. It seems like all the real estate companies and land brokers are mafias. Anyway, where there is development, there is destruction! It's a fact. 

 As we knew that it's a leech season, we brought salt in our backpacks, but it was not enough for four of us. We asked for a packet of salt in a nearby shop. The shop doesn't sell salt but the kind hearted shop owner took it from her kitchen and gave it to us. There is myth that we shouldn't take salt for free. So, we payed her for the 10-20 ounces of salt. Then we headed up to Champa Devi Temple. 


The trial begins from the back of the temple. After few mins of our prayers, we took the trial which leads to the top of the mountain where we wanted to finish our hike. The path is extremely wild and verdant with wild ferns, bushes and trees. As we knew that: the starting point of the trial is shallow, we were unaware about the tremendous numbers of the leeches. We couldn't stand at same place for a minute or two. They eventually crept on our shoes and body. They are extremely attracted to humans. After few mins of walking, we saw many hungry leeches on your shoes. One already bit me. 




 Two friends were so much afraid of leech that they didn't want to move ahead. At that point, we were so disappointed that our hike would be worthless. We decided to come down and calm them. The anxiety was uncontrollable. We picked out all the leeches from their shoes. Then we came back-------. Along the way, I asked my friend, Nirpesh to go up ahead and Eliza and Sujita would stay in a shop where we took the salt------. Then Nirpesh and I walked up the mountain. But before going up, we put salt all around on our shoes and legs. Leeches are halophobic in nature. 


 "This is it! The moment we have been waiting is here. Let's do it!". We were talking to ourselves. With an urge to walk uphill narrow path, we walked non stop for about 45 mins until we found two ways. One leads to the south and one goes to North. The narrow path of the forest is so wild. Soloing could be dangerous. In the mean time, there was no rain. We took that day as a lucky day. Rainy day could bring so many problems. Like, leeches would fall from trees on a rainy day. And the roads could be slippery. 



Every moment was blissful.We did enjoy the rhythmic sounds of the streams, bird songs, and the sound of the leaves as we stepped on them.



Then when we reached on the top of the mountain, there were two ways. We took the one that leads to the north. We were welcomed by the pine forest. And there were no leech at all. They don't live in alpine forest. We walked non stop for another 30 mins to reach the Champa Devi Temple. Actually, there are two Champa Devi temples, I and II. One which is situated on the top of the mountain is Champa Devi I. We actually have no idea about the temples. Maybe, one who can't walk on the mountain, can worship the temple which is situated down the mountain. 


 The view of the valley is even more stunning from the top of the mountain, 2200-2300m above from sea level. And the pine forest on the other side of the mountain looks spectacular too. There are plenty of Rhododendron trees on the top of the mountain. The wildflowers were so amazing to see. 



After few mins of prayers, we roamed around here and there and took rest. My friend, Nirpesh got stress in his legs. We needed that rest. Then we took our snacks. We didn't want to eat much. Because, it would be so hard to come down with full stomach. After finishing our snacks, we spent some time taking some pictures of us and the surrounding as a memory that we had been here. Wonderful, the hike was worthwhile anyway. We realized that the time is precious gift and we made moments with mountains, forests, streams and winding roads. 



As we knew that two friends of us were waiting down the mountain, we didn't spend much time on the top, we ran the same winding tunnel of bushes and trees where leeches were abundant. But before doing that, we put the salt water on our shoes and legs and hands in order to be safe from leech. 


It took us around 7-10 mins to come down to a place where we started our hike. Awesome, it was so much challenging to go up through that path and got so easy while coming down as we ran. We completed our hike in just 3 hours. We are one of the best hikers among friends.



Our friends who had been waiting down, were so much excited to see our phones. Eventually, when we came down, we gave our phones to them to see the photos and videos that we took along the trials. They were so happy that at least we made our hike worthwhile. And we told them to come back again through other route(Dakshinkali-Hattiban resort-Champadevi Temple) which is so much easy as far as we knew. 


We took our snacks and fruits in the same shop where we bought salt. Then, we talked so much and laughed a lot. We had our tea too. It was one of the best teas which we had. 



After an hour, we headed to Taudaha and spent another 2 hours. We fed koi fish. And we started talking again. As they knew that I don't talk much, I was talking about philosophical things only. I realized that my friends know so much about life than I do. I just get lost with nature. Time would be less if we debated on that day. I appreciated my friends for things that I haven't not experienced and not known. 


Above all, we had one of our best days, September 4,2021. At 6 O'clock, we left for home. 




In the great valley which we live on has many adventures to offer. The one which we grew up is hiking. And it still is one of our best adventures. See you all in next blog which will be even more exciting.