Tapeshwor Mahadev Hike

A friend of mine made phone call to me for a hike. Undeniably,  I said yes to his request. After a week of preparation, we went on a hike together on November 10, 2020. Although, we both had things to do and live far apart nowadays, we didn't make excuses in order to postpone our hike. However, we decided to make our hike possible. And it did. He was doing 10 day challenge about walking 10 km a day. Happily, we walked for more than 10 km on that day and our footsteps were uncountable.

We started our hike at 7:00 am in the morning. We didn't want to call it as morning walk. It was more than that. As I said he lives far apart, he came on his motorbike to my house. Later, we kept on walking from my house to our destination. The destination wasn't mundane. It's one of the best quite places of Kathmandu valley from where you get a chance to see entire valley from the eastern side including highest Himalayan ranges of the world. It probably has best view you could ever imagine.

As we walked through the shortcuts from Chapagaun, Himalayan ranges were so clear as gin on that day and we were amused by them. It seemed like they were following our entire trials. At the same time, our eyes were distracted by the flowery vegetation which is in full bloom along the way. After walking for almost an hour through bucolic country sides and crossing small rivers, let's say rivulets, we reached to the Badikhel. It's the neighborhood of Chapagaun. Now, if you want to hike our destination, all you need to do is to reach Badikhel, (Buspark) wherever you live. 

Badikhel is a small village which lies within Godawari Municipality. It's popular for pure drinking water. When we were young, we used to come here more often to get open bath at Gulinda, where crystal clear icy cold water comes from underground. It is nowadays collected and used as drinking water. 

Moreover, it lies on the lap of mountain ranges from where little Amazon begins. As we walked winding roads up the eastern mountains, we were welcomed by the bird's morning songs. Happily, I recorded their songs in my phone. If you are lucky enough, you would see squirrels too. Swaying our footsteps to and fro, we reached our destination. As I said, destination wasn't ordinary, it's something very special for those who do meditation. It is Tapeshwor Mahadev and is named after Mahadev who did mediation on the steep rocky mountain. As far as I know, this place has got enormous popularity during lockdown. But I do not know much about it. I would take a help from locals next time. The hike wasn't mean to know everything about Tapeshwor Mahadev. But it was all about enjoying some time together with a friend on the mountains as we met after so long.

After our morning prayers at the temple, we sat on the top of the mountain and had our tea and biscuits which I brought in thermoflask from home. Because of covid-19 outbreak, we thought that we shouldn't have any tea or things from teashop. While having our tea, we enjoyed the superb view of the place. The view literally was amusing on that day. Everything: the Ktmvlly, Himalayas, and the other mountain ranges illuminated with the morning sun. In the mean time, we got distracted from the colorful birds singing on the branches of the pine trees looking at us listening our talk. To be quite honest with you, we were only humans in the middle of nowhere. We didn't find anyone at the temple or along the trials. That is why, I said that it's one of the quite places where you can spend all day enjoying everything around you. Friend and I had a good time like we used to have when we were young. We talked a lot about our good ol' days. It seemed like we had a good break after so many days, months, and years. He shared his personal experiences about being away from Nepal. And I shared mine being in Nepal. What Nepal should be and what it is now! We came to know that the stability of Nepal in all respects takes time now. 

After half an hour finishing our tea and talk, we spent some time on photography capturing our moment in a frame. Then, we slowly walked down the winding road to the Badikhel Buspark Chowk and we used the other road to the Chapagaun. 

To sum it up, the hike was memorable for sure. We made fond memories along the trials. I still remember that I had an intense headache when I reached home all day and night. And I had to take a day of rest next day. 

As I said to my friend along the trials that I would love to see my father visiting the Tapeshwor Mahadev, father and I went again after taking a day of rest. With my father too, we used the same routine. We started walking at 7:00 am and reached the temple at 8:30 am. But while walking up the mountain, my father had dizziness. I was so afraid that what if something would happen what would I do in the middle of the mountainside! There was no sign of humans. 

After taking rest at so many places, we finally reached Tapeshwor Mahadev temple. We did our morning prayers and lit up oil lamps too. Soon, we had our tea and biscuits. I knew my father was loosing glucose level in his body. Then I made phone call to my brother to take us home on his motorbike. We waited for almost 20 mins. And I left my dad to his quite time. Man needs more quite time. He was amazed by the charming and glorifying landscapes, mountains all round. Yet so simple and massive valley stands still in the middle. While my father having his time, I took the photographs which I missed before when I was with my friend. Then my brother came to take us home. Happy, I didn't have any headache but my father had little leg pain which was obvious. 

Now, coming to the point that we should live in "now". I lived the moment of now with my friend and my father and brother. On this unprecedented time, we gave our precious time with one another. After all, time is all we have. So make the moments last.

Learn To Live Again

 It's not far away, it's not far at all

The mountainsides we dreamt of--

A kind of invitation, so pure and divine.

For fate was on our side

Together we walk as one

On the beckoning mountains

Filled with lush full of green love.

We feel the warmth of the foothills

As we want to climb the lap of the beloved mother

We free our head, so calm and quiet

Under the sacred fig tree, shaded and dusky

With all honesty, we take a deep breath, in and out.

Far from home, we walk on the wild side

With careful heart to ease our mind.

Along the long and winding roads,

We hear the birds singing

On the mossy banks of a wandering stream, rippling even burbling.

And see wildflowers appealing butterflies, lively and vibrant.

As we dive into the forest, where colors came to life

We come to comprehend mindfully that

Time is all we have and the life is now.

With fire in our bones, we sit on the top of an ancient mountain,

From where the valley seems lost with the cloud of its own.

We feel at home in the land of great unknown, safe and sound.

The rhythm rhymes as we cast our eyes on the sea of mountains, colossal and enormous.

We are wide awake to know the endless sky beyond blue.

And we say, "This odyssey is a welcome respite".

So as to nurture as a whole and to fill the pages of life.

Pathivara Hike

Some people walk on their own because they feel within themselves. After hiking every month for a year 2076 B.S. (2019-20 A.D.), twice in a month, sometimes thrice in a month, I did enwind my solo hike with "Pathivara Hike". With traveler at heart, I lived the moments in the wild exploring my solitude with endless possibilities. Sometimes hiking is not just about to aid the physique, however, it supercharges our grey matter too. With an unvarnished act of exploring, we can easily boost our brainpowers. 

In all honesty, I recruit new skills on every hike, for instance, keeping a pace, building up a strength, map reading, managing time, building a range of motion and so on. After all as a photography enthusiast, I manage to have a great eye sight. 

Now moving on with "Pathivara Hike", that I named it after 'Pathivara Temple' which is situated on the foothills of Dolchoki. It was one of my full blooded hikes because I had not walked like that before. Although it was strenuous, I came home with fond memories that I made along the trails.

There are many ways to get Pathivara Temple. There are 3 motor ways and one of them is highly risky. I used the river way to reach there. I actually like to see the river along the trails. It was festival day, Falgu Purnima or Holi and I took that day for granted. I hit the trail around 10 am from the western side of the Chapagaun. Through river way, I went to Pari, neighborhood of Chapagaun in order to see the mustard fields. Well, it was early spring and the ambience gifted by yellow color was eye distracting. 

Moreover, after few mins of taking photos of Pari, I headed to Charghare through water canal way where suspension bridge is built over the Nakhhu river connecting two villages. I was exhausted after walking about an hour from home. I decided to take rest on suspension bridge for few mins. It was amazing to see bucolic scenery all around standing on the middle of the bridge. Then, I crossed the bridge and took the forest way which leads to Tika Bhairab. That narrow forest path is one of the dangerous ways and people walk this way more rarely. This 10-15 mins forest path determines whether or not you can walk further trails which are deep in the woods! 

I used the tactics which I usually do. Instead of wasting time on taking photos and videos in such wilderness, I walked as fast as possible holding a camera stand in my hand. I didn't run because that narrow path is made through the edge of the huge mountain to the other side. With one small mistake, you could slip away from more than 100 ft to the river down below.

After 10 mins of forest walk, I reached Tikabhairab. Now, Tikabhairab is situated on the bank of Nakhhu river and is surrounded by huge mountains from all sides. It is the mouth of all hiking trails. From here, we can go to the different places or mountains, for example, Devichaur, Deurali, Tinpane, Dolchoki, Manakamana Temple I, II, Pathivara Temple, Bhardev, Phulchoki, and so on. Fortunately, I hiked all these mountains this year one by one except Phulchoki, probably highest mountain of the valley. It is because, we should have strong guts to hike Phulchoki solo.

I headed to Nallu from Tika Bhairab through river way. The river water was so gin clear on that day. But I didn't see any fish in the river. While walking through that way, I felt extreme sorrow because the river is not the same as it was before and the mountains are being crucified for stone and other purposes (construction). Whatever, the trial is amazing for a day hikers as the trial is on the deepest gorge where river is flowing on its side. I was amazed after seeing huge rocks dating back to more than 1000 years. I chased the birds singing on the banks of the rivers. And I kept on walking for another 2 and half hrs further to reach Nallu Bazaar. Along the way, I passed few villages of Nallu. I saw old aged people gazing their herds on the steep mountains. Some were working on their fields and some young people were celebrating Holi. 

Now, after reaching Nallu, I saw Pathivara Temple on the mountain from a distant. Wonderful, I crossed the river and I walked up the mountain through winding path to the temple. I was saying to myself;"This is it! The moment that I have been waiting for so long is here with me now".  I spent few minutes around 15 mins at the temple (worshipping and taking rest). It was sunny day and the views from the temple was jaw dropping. I walked further up the mountain and I had snacks somewhere on the middle of the mountain. Then after supercharging with some homemade foods, I went to Dolchoki residing on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, I felt so much pain in my leg while going up.  And I was worried and thought that how could I reach home! Simultaneously, the trail started to engulf by the daytime mist.  I could hardly see the way. I felt the moment of walking on bleary trails. When I was on top of the mountain, I made a phone call to my brother to take me home. You know! The pain was unbearable. But he couldn't able to come as he was also traveling somewhere with his friends. Sadly, I was on my own, I walked down all the way from Dolchoki to the Tinpane through huge forest beaten road. And from Tinpane, I was walking all alone to Tikabhairab and a kind man offered me a lift to Tikabhairav. When I reached Tikabhairav, I made phone call to my cousin brother to take me home. I walked again to the Charghare where my cousin brother was waiting for me to take home. This is how I completed my last hike. It was a totalled challenge. 

When I reached home, I got so much stressed and pain. But I was happy to be home. Sometimes, unbearable pain brings great pleasure. It was one of the best hikes I ever did so far. I walked deep in the gorge and on top of the mountain. If only you have been in the deepest valley, can you ever know? How magnificent it is to be on the top of the mountain?

The rewards which I got from that hike were inexpressible. Maybe I got phytochemicals provided by trees to fight against bacteria and fungi. Maybe I boosted my mind and immune system. Or, maybe, I had a good day to remember. To sum it up, hiking can have the long lasting impact on the plasticity of our brain. Next time, I use new route to reap away extra rewards.

Footsteps on The Far Western Nepal

Despite the fear which I had on my mind, I came out from my comfort zone and took one of the longest road trips to the far western Nepal. Far western Nepal is yet one of the untouched, unexplored and and unspoiled regions of Nepal. I was one of the fortune travelers to make pure contact with it. It has oodles natural habitats such as national parks, river, lakes, protected areas where one could have best time of all.

                     

The traveling plan was made all of a sudden. On 31st December, 2019, I packed my backpacks with an essential things and left Kathmandu, the biggest city across Himalayas on a midnight tour bus. It was chilling cold night and I was wondering to myself that how would I spend rest of the time on a night bus for 20 hrs. After passing winding road of Naubise and perilous road of Muglin, I had a light dinner at Rampur with the rest of the passengers. After that, we headed for Chitwan. I was awake and things were going well until the drunken man appeared out of nowhere in/on the middle of highway road who was trying to cross the road. The driver suddenly put the brakes on wheels with mighty effort and took the wrong lane in order to save the life of drunk man putting everyone at risk.
Furthermore, while doing it so, the bus almost hit the heavy loaded truck coming from the other side. That twist and turn almost killed everyone. We were just inch away from collision. Later, we thanked the driver for saving us from 'almost happened mishap'. It was almost new year 2020 when that accident happened. After about half an hour of discussionabout the refund of broken and shattered rear view mirror, we headed to Butuwal through East-West Mahendra Highway.

With no sleep at night, well! (How could I close my eyes!) after thinking that horrible mishap in my head, I was looking out all night through bus's window. My heart pounded when day broke into light, the first morning of 2020 and at that time, we were passing through Bardia National Park. I didn't notice that the bus had already passed Banke National Park.
Banke-Bardia national parks are two consecutive national parks of Nepal which is separated by Kohalpur. In order to make footsteps in far western Nepal we have to pass through these national parks via east west highway which is built in the middle of the forest. I noticed that that the speed of any vehicle should be limited here. If you are too slow or fast, army will enquiry you for why you were slow or fast! It was awe inspiring to see herd of wild deer on the side f the highway road because I have not seen deers in the wild before.

After passing 2 national parks the bus stopped at Chisapani for breakfast. Chisapani is situated on the bank of Karnali river where single tower Karnali bridge is made. Under that landmark bridge, torquoise water flows providing life to the aquatic animals, birds, wild animals and human.

After having my breakfast, I went to see Karnali river from its bank.It seemed water was flowing slowly but in reality, the current of flowing water was so high. I was amazed to see how big the river was! It is home of river dolphin too.

Now, Far western Nepal journey began. After spending half an hour at Chisapani, the bus headed for Attariya where my friend lives.
First day at friend's house was amazing. Everything was homely. After having 3 hrs of nap, we (friend and I) went for evening walk to the riverside, neighborhoods of my friend's village. The atmosphere was truly bucolic. I was experiencing walking on open plains for the third time. You could see someone walking as far as possible. The best thing about the village is that there is no pollution at all which is obvious. At the same time, people are also nice and kind. They treat outsiders very well. The day spent well. I met my friend's family who are very kind to me. Although, I don't talk much, we had wonderful chit chats. Well, my friend has big land where they could have anything they want.

Next morning, after having a tea, we left for Mahendranagar, one of the biggest towns of far western on a local bus. Unfortunately, the locals had blocked the highway because of accident which happened few days ago. We had to walk for few minutes and then we got an auto to the Mahendranagar. We had a lunch, Dal, Bhat, and Tarkari at Mahendranagar town. And we headed to Dodhara Chandani. They are 2 villages which are connected by Dodhara Chandani suspension bridge and are connected to India from the other side.

Dodhara Chandani Suspension Bridge(1453 m) lies on the south-western corner of Nepal almost bordering to India. The bridge connects a remaining landmass of Nepal across the Mahakali River which otherwise acts as the natural frontier between the two countries. Mahakali River flows along Nepal's western border with India in the Himalayas. It is formed by the joining of two streams of headwaters, the Kalapani River (or Lipu Gad) descending from the western border of the Lipulekh Pass and the Kuthi Yankti river descending from the Limpiyadhura range. It takes the name Kali River from the union of the two streams at Gunji as it flows through the hills. After Brahmadev Mandi (near Tanakpur) it enters the terai plains where it is called the Sharda river. Flowing southeast into Uttar Pradesh, the river joins Ghaghra, a tributary of the Ganges.

It was an amazing experience to see 2 huge things at a same place. The longest Dodhara-Chandani bridge and huge Mahakali river flowing under that bridge made my day. That day's plan was actually to make footsteps on last 2 villages of Nepal and make a jungle safari in Sukhlaphanta National Park. Unfortunately, because of time limit, I had to miss jungle safari and couldn't able to see tigers in the wild. I hope I will make jungle safari next time.

Next morning, after staying 2 nights in my friend's house, a friend of mine and I left to Dhangadi airport. Along the way, I got a chance to visit main places of Dhangadi. We had to wait almost an hour for airplane. We said goodbye to eachother and I thanked him for everything. And I flew back to Kathmandu. 4 days seemed 4 hrs to me. The time was limited otherwise, I would have traveled to Khaptad National Park.

This is how I summed up my 4 days of road trip to far western Nepal. We can easily get itinerary for far western Nepal from internet. I just don't want to share it. I had the most challenging, intriguing and enriching experiences about the culture, language of the far western Nepal. Through this travel, I learned about the unfamiliar culture, language and foods. The best part of my trip was to make footsteps to the far western Nepal. Now, I have to travel eastern Nepal before I get ready for Himalayas. It was beneficial travel in many ways than just to broaden my mind. I have many things to know about Nepal.