Rolwaling Valley Trek

Aspiring climbers, seeking adventures and opportunities to test their strength and skill, attempt to penetrate the Himalayan wilderness and push their limits to reach the summits. However, the grandest excursion of all to be made hereabouts is to the heart of the Himalayas, covered with icy crowns. Those towering peaks laden with glaciers that are terribly roughened and interrupted by crevasses and ice cliffs are very high, which render comparisons with our own height meaningless. Only good climbers should attempt to gain the summit, led by a sherpa of proven nerve and endurance. Well-established mountain, forest, and river trails wind down the mighty Tamakoshi River to the place where our trek was for, Rolwaling Valley.

© Bikesh Deshar

Rolwaling, a remote mountain valley at an altitude of 4000 meters, lies northeast of Kathmandu, near the Tibetan border and to the west of the Khumbu region. The Rolwaling Valley in the Gaurisankar Conservation Area stands as a tribute to the majesty of the Himalayas and continues to attract adventurers, trekkers, and mountaineers from around the world, who are eager to explore its wild surroundings and experience its unique blend of natural and cultural wonders.

NEPAL government has expanded the number of peaks available for mountaineering to more than 300. Among them, the Rolwaling valley boasts over 19-20 peaks exceeding 6000 meters that are open for commercial climbing. Situated between the Langtang and Everest ranges, the Rolwaling Himal Range can be reached by 2 days from Kathmandu, leading to the major settlement of Beding village in the Rolwaling valley. 

The Rolwaling valley is also known for one of the largest glacial lakes, Tsho-Rolpa Lake. Back in our school days, we used to read about it in the textbook saying that at any time; it could explode, affecting the people along the Rolwaling valley.

Instead of climbing the peaks of the Rolwaling Valley, my friend and I set off on a week-long trek to witness the formation of the majestic lake and admire the valley's wild surroundings.

DAY 1

With our past experience in Shey Phoksundo National Park together back in 2079 B.S., my school friend John and I decided to explore the Gaurisankar Conservation Area. We bought bus tickets from Kathmandu and set on a long ride along the Arniko Highway. Due to the hazy weather, we couldn't see the mountain ranges at their best. After about 10 and half hours, we reached Chet-Chet, staring point for the trek around 3:45 PM. 

With no time to waste, as soon as we arrived at Chet-Chet, a small village near the bank of the Tamakoshi River, we took the first leap of the trek towards Simigaun, a few hours away from Chet-Chet. Once we crossed the river via the suspension bridge, we took the uphill staircase path that leads to Simigaun. Simigaun is also a small village nestled in the lap of the Himalayan foothills. As we were walking along the trails, we decided to stay at one of the tea houses situated on the top of the hills so that we wouldn't have to start from the bottom the next day. We took a few photos and videos along the trails as a memory of a lifetime. The trail isn't busy at all. We came across a few Nepali trekkers who had returned from Tsho-Rolpa. They said it was snowing up in the Beding and Na Villages. We wondered what would happen if the trails were closed due to a heavy snowy blizzard! John was worried for not bringing the down jacket. Saying goodbye, we continued walking to our tea house, which was recommended by one of the mountaineers we met on the bus, who had summited Everest five times.

As we arrived at our tea house, I made phone calls to my home and informed my parents that we had safely reached Simigaun. My friend, who is married and has a child, soon, had a video call with his family. Later, after we had cleaned up and changed clothes, we went to the dining room to have some hot water and tea. There were other Nepali trekkers as well as foreign trekkers from Germany who had arrived earlier than us. After ordering our meal for the night, all of the trekkers gathered in the dining room for some gossip. Usually, the trekkers talked about their past trekking experiences. We stayed calm and didn’t mention anything about our past treks. We simply listened to them. Those young trekkers seemed quite naive to us when it came to walking in the mountains, whereas the elderly German couple had done the Manaslu Circuit Trek last time. I refrained from mentioning that I had also done the MCT a few years ago. I didn’t want the conversation to drag on and didn’t want to disturb the elderly couple by asking unnecessary questions, as some other trekkers did. We treat all foreigners as guests and do not want to be part of any distractions. As discussions were ongoing, our meal for the night was served. To satisfy our voracious appetites, we enjoyed Nepali dinner with some chilies. I had lots of hot water since the place and the weather seemed cold, and I also wanted to stay hydrated. The rest of the trekkers were served later, including the elderly couple who also enjoyed a Nepali Thali. After our dinner, all of them left to their rooms and I had a pleasant conversation with the owner of the tea house about how tourism in Nepal had been affected by the COVID-19 outbreak. He mentioned that despite the challenges faced by other trekking regions, you can still experience and taste the unique blend of the Himalayas here in the Rolwaling Valley. He further mentioned encountering Red Pandas on the trails once you reach an elevation of 3000 meters. I was amazed to hear that. He also mentioned that, unlike other places in the Himalayas, all trekkers are treated well here in the Rolwaling Valley. Later, he got busy in the kitchen. Then, the curious  elderly couple came in and started talking to each other in the corner of the room while I was sitting next to them, having some hot water. Their guide also popped in and started talking to me. I got information about the trails from him since we didn’t have an offline map this time. It was worth talking to him. The elderly couple bid me goodnight and went to sleep while I continued chatting with their guide. After some time, I also went to sleep.

DAY 2

We woke up early in the morning and completed our morning routine. While other trekkers left early for the next stop, we took some time for a tea break. Around 6:45 AM, after settling the bills, we also set on the adventure up the trails. 

As our determination was to reach Beding, a heavenly place nestled in the lap of the Himalayas, we walked slowly along mountain trails covered with Rhododendron blossoms. Along the trail, two Nepali trekkers whom we had met at our tea house the previous day were sitting in the rest stop made for trekkers like us. We didn’t stop for a rest, as we wanted to continue walking, but we mentioned that we would see them on the trail. However, after a few minutes, they also followed us. With some conversation, we continued our walk together.

After reaching the river trails, they fell behind, and John and I continued walking uphill, enjoying views of the mountains that had never been explored before. Below the wild mountains, the river flowed endlessly with its turquoise color. After about an hour of walking, we reached Uttise, which is at an altitude of 2055 m. From there Surmuche is 2 kms away, where we planned to have some food. As we continued walking up the forest trail, we passed our trail friends who had set out earlier in the morning from the same tea house where we stayed.

At times, John walked ahead on the trail while I took pictures of the surroundings. The trails reminded us of the Langtang region, making us feel like we had returned to Langtang once again. Listening to the bird songs along the winding trail and the rippling of the river, we walked uphill through the forest trail, stepping on the man-made stone staircase to Surmuche. At 9:10 AM, we reached Surmuche, where there was only one tea house. We arrived earlier than expected. Deciding it was too early for lunch, we continued further up the trail. At this altitude, increasing our walking pace didn’t matter much, but we knew to be cautious at higher altitudes. We encountered a group of trekkers returning from their trek. We asked them how long it would take to reach Dongang, where we planned to have our lunch. At one point on the forest trail, we stopped for a food break. We unpacked the food we had brought from home in our backpacks. While chatting, John and I thoroughly enjoyed the trail foods. It was one of our best meals on the trail so far, reminiscent of the meals we had during the Shey Phoksundo Trek. Amidst the steep trails, we savored our food despite the strong mountain gusts hitting us.

As we continued to walk further up the trail, we encountered narrow gorges where the mountains on the other side loomed large and untamed. It felt as though alpine vegetation had claimed them as their home over millions of years. I couldn't help but wonder how it would look during a snowfall; it might resemble a wonderland from a fairy tale. Suddenly, we came across a suspension bridge. Beneath it, icy spring water flowed from the upper slopes of the mountains, forming a pool. We decided that on our return from the trek, we would dive into that pool. Despite the icy cold water, the experience would be awe-inspiring. Continuing up the trail, we knew that Kyalje, one of the isolated places on the trail, was not far from the natural pool. As we walked through the forest trails, we encountered a few wild, colorful birds flying past us. It was a wonderful feeling on the trail. Then, around 11:20 AM, we arrived at Kyalje. We stopped for a rest and then continued our walk. We encountered another stream, long in length, where we took some time enjoying the waterfall. Afterward, we continued walking through the forest trail to Dongang, a riverside spot where we stopped to have lunch. Upon reaching Dongang at an elevation of 2790 m, we ordered our lunch at one of the tea houses and encountered four other trail friends who had set out earlier in the morning from the same tea house. They were preparing to depart for Beding, our mutual destination, which was nearly 6 hours away. We were fortunate to find that there was still lunch available for both of us. While settling the bills, two other groups of trail friends also reached Dongang. Knowing that cooking a full meal would take time, they opted for noodles, which are quicker to prepare. One of the trail friends appeared quite weak, and we wondered if he and his companion would manage to make it to Beding. We advised him not to rush, especially considering his weakness. Without lingering, we set out on our 6-hour journey along the river trail.

As we ascended and crossed the suspension bridge, the weather suddenly shifted, and a gentle rain began to fall. Observing the mountains ahead shrouded in clouds, we hesitated on whether to continue along the trails. However, we pressed onward despite the approaching thunderstorm, eventually reached Thangdingma. It was there that my friend insisted we pause, as the snowfall had commenced.

Fortunately, we stumbled upon a tea house, where we sought advice from the lady owner about whether it was safe to continue along the trail in such weather. She reassured us that the snow would likely melt soon and posed no significant obstacle. After some contemplation, I made the decision to proceed and urged John to join me.

As we trudged along the snowy path amidst the snowfall, we were startled by a loud lightning strike, momentarily questioning my decision. Upon reaching one of the rest stops, the snowfall intensified into a heavy blizzard. John managed to put his raincoat, but I relied only on my jacket. Despite John's insistence to wait out the blizzard, I insisted we press on, considering the distance we had covered from the tea house.

Drenched in the snowy deluge, we persevered, realizing that this was one of those wild moments on the trail, experiencing what some might call 'trail magic' despite the challenging weather. Just a day prior, we had trudged through scorching sun, now facing a snowstorm. It was a moment to cherish, amidst the elements.

Mindful of the lightning, we refrained from using electronic devices but couldn't resist capturing some photos and videos to preserve the memory of the dramatic landscape. The mountains and trails draped in a blanket of snow added a new dimension of beauty and intrigue to the surroundings. It was moments like these that reminded us why we embarked on this trek in the first place. Along the way, I was ahead on the trail, a wild bird which is national bird of Nepal, Danphe crossed our path with its wings flowned. I was amazed to see it. For the first time in life, I witnessed it so close. It ran into bushes so fast that it got out of the sight. Then, I saw human settlements on the otherside of the mountain and thought that it might be Beding. I told John who was behind on the trail that we finally reached Beding. There was a suspension bridge covered with snow. It was so amazing to see that bridge covering in snow. I waited for John before stepping onto the bridge and we walked together. After crossing the bridge, having the leftover snacks, we walked on a snowy path. We stumbled upon a giant tree. It could probably be one of the species of Silver Fir covered with snow. Seeing its beauty, I couldn’t resist taking photos and thought I had to take just one shot. Fortunately, I got three of them, which were truly amazing.

The scene was dramatic. In the midst of a sloppy path, scattered with petite alpines, stood a majestic lone tree and its branches, adorned with a soft blanket of snow, stood out against the backdrop of swirling mist and falling snowflakes, creating a captivating scene of tranquility and beauty.

As we reached on the other side of the mountain, we were so sad that we came to know that it was not Beding but Ramding. At this point, we wondered, did we ever use the main trail or we came to other trail.  We looked for people in the house and all of the houses were locked. We couldn’t find any help but we kept walking. Then we came across with one tent. We shouted for help and a man popped in from the tent. We asked him that how long it would take to reach Beding. He replied that it was just 10 mins away from there. We finally got relieved that we were about to reach where we struggled for all day. Then, we saw the settlements of Beding covering with snow. The landscape looked surreal and I had not seen such beauty with my eyes before. There were countable number of houses which were all covered with snow and the snow was still falling giving the solid vibes of Himalayas. We realized that we finally came to the Himalayas. Since most of the tea houses were closed, we were confused about where we should look for one. When John shouted to a man standing at a far distance, he directed us to come over. Soon, we ran towards him and he informed us that this was the only tea house open.

Upon arrival around 6:00 PM, we secured a room for the night. After changing into warmer clothes and putting on jackets to combat the cold, we found that the water was so cold that we couldn’t even wash our hands properly. Subsequently, we headed to the dining room for some warm water and tea. There, we encountered four other trekkers whom we had met previously at the same tea house in Simigaun. Additionally, we befriended four other trekkers whom we hadn’t met before. They had all arrived before the snowy blizzard hit hard, sparing them from spending more time in the blizzard.

However, there was also the expedition team, who had come to the Rolwaling Valley to climb one of its peaks. As I was feeling so cold, I wanted to sit near the fire to warm my hands and body. However, after being in the snow for a long time, I refrained from sitting near the fire at first. It wasn't a good idea to expose our hands to the fire immediately. We decided to take our time and sit near the fire later. In the dining room, we engaged in many conversations on different topics while having our tea and water. During our tea time, we made phone calls to our homes to inform our parents that we had finally reached Beding and that it was snowing there. My mother warned me not to wander in the mountains.

We later learned that Beding is the final place on the trail where we could find electricity and a mobile network. Furthermore, we discovered that Beding village in the Rolwaling Valley is ancient, with a history dating back centuries. It has been inhabited by indigenous Sherpa people for generations, making it one of the oldest settlements in the region, possibly dating back over a thousand years. The village has a rich cultural heritage and is known for its traditional way of life, including farming, herding, and trade along ancient mountain routes. People from Beding and Na villages do not kill any animals, as it is a part of their Buddhist culture. Long ago, the Dalai Lama sent 108 sheep here, and he made sure they were set free. He promised they wouldn't be harmed. So, those sheep got to roam around happily, enjoying their freedom. There were many stories shared in the dining room. One of the interesting stories shared about Rolwaling was that it is mentioned in one of Guru Rinpoche's books, the ‘Pema Kathak’, which states that Rolwaling is a Beyul, a sacred hidden valley. During Guru Rinpoche's visit, he consecrated numerous natural sites and monuments that still scatter throughout the valley, establishing these sites to provide refuge during the most challenging times or in times of misfortune.

After our long talk, dinner was served. We didn’t hesitate to eat with our hands. It had been a full day, perhaps 12 hours in the trail, and we had hearty appetites to satisfy. We enjoyed rice, lentil soup, vegetables, and some chilies. After our meal, we still remained in the dining room, enjoying hot water near fire chimney. Later around 9:00 PM, we all went to sleep hoping the weather would be clear.

Day 3

Early, at 5:30 in the morning, we woke up. Peering through our window, we saw that the weather was clear, revealing a landscape covered with alluring snow. To our surprise, as we stepped outside, Beding village was blanketed in snow, offering the best views it had to offer. One obtains glimpses of its snowy cone up in the mountains and ridges. Further down the mountain, another snowy cone follows, covering the trees one after another. 

After our morning tea and settling our bills, we set out for the last village in the Rolwaling, Na village, which was 2.5 – 3 hours from Beding. Our group of two merged with a larger group of 10 trekkers, and together we headed towards Na village, where we planned to have lunch before continuing our hike to Tsho Rolpa lake, situated at an altitude of 4580 meters. As we were walking through snowy trail, I looked back in the trail and noticed that Beding Go Peak (6122 m) and Gaurisankar Himal (7134 m) illuminated with the morning sun.

As we walked along the snowy trail, we were amazed by the wild Himalayan mountain ranges in every direction. However, it was challenging to navigate the trail, and we frequently slipped. Nevertheless, we continued walking, capturing the breathtaking scenery with our eyes and committing it to memory for the rest of our lives.

We were utterly mesmerized by the river too. The bushes nearby river and the rocks, big and small, alpine trees covered in snow, created a dramatic scene. The rippling sound of the river added extra music to the breathtaking landscape. It was a sense of being spellbound by the river's beauty.

As the river cascaded down the mountain, its waters danced with the energy of an untamed spirit. Along its banks, the river rocks bore the burden of lingering snow, their surfaces dusted in patches of white. The bushes that lined the river's edge, once vibrant with the promise of summer, now stood adorned in the remnants of frost, lending a delicate charm to the landscape. Despite the remnants of winter's touch, the water within the river flowed freely, its liquid melody a harmonious counterpoint to the tranquil surroundings. In this transitional season, where nature hovered on the cusp of awakening, the river remained a steadfast symbol of renewal and vitality, its ever-flowing current a tribute to the eternal cycle of life.

After an hour and a half of walking through the snowy pass, we came across the footprints of a snow leopard and its cub, marked in a circle by the fellow trekkers who had headed up first. We were terrified and, at the same time, excited to see them. We speculated that the snow leopard and its cub might have walked through that trail in the mountains the previous night. With a sense of accomplishment, witnessing the footprints of a snow leopard had become one of the trail's most memorable moments.

Once the morning sunlight reflected off the snowy trail, we put on our polarized glasses to prevent snow blindness. Snow blindness and altitude sickness are real dangers in the Himalayas. That's why we wear our polarized glasses and avoid ascending to high altitudes too quickly. Otherwise, we could be in trouble. I frequently stopped for photos as I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to capture good shots. To frame a photo, I took off my sunglasses and framed it.

For the first time, we witnessed a waterfall frozen in time with our naked eyes, its turquoise blue color standing out against the mountain. It was quite amazing to see. As we were passing through the snowy trail, the views became even more wild. Some of the highest peaks of the Rolwaling looked amazingly big. We saw Mt. Khang Nachugo and its ranges on the left side of the trail. Further ahead, straight along the trail, we saw Mt. Chobuje peeking through with the morning sunlight. 

As we walked along the trail, we came across a Buddhist gateway, also known as a Mani Arch, adorned with photos of Buddhas, prayer wheels, flags, and Buddhist symbols. Personally, I realized that we had reached a sacred site in the Himalayas and thought that Na village was not far away. John and I prayed for a while. We had to. There was also a huge stone where we saw a magnificent painting of Guru Rinpoche. High up in the mountain, we noticed the Guru Rinpoche Cave Temple, which we had learned about the previous night. Continuing from there, we ascended the trail and finally caught sight of Na village, the most isolated village in the Rolwaling valley. It was also the last human settlement. A local man from Na Village approached us along the trail. We learned that he had come to invite us to stay in his tea house. It was his daily routine to approach trekkers on the trail and invite them to stay. While talking with him, we walked along towards Na Village. We were curious and asked him about the footprints we encountered along the trail. He told us they were from a snow leopard. Furthermore, he mentioned that one of the yaks had been killed by the river. He pointed his finger towards the site where the yak was killed. There, we could see Himalayan Eagles scavenging the carcasses of dead yaks. We informed him that we had seen the footprints of a mother snow leopard and its cub. Soon, we reached Na village, welcomed by the Mani walls inscribed with mantras, prayers, or sacred symbols, which hold great religious and spiritual significance for Buddhist Sherpas of Rolwaling Valley. Upon arriving at the tea house, we ordered our meal and, while having our tea and hot water, discussed whether we should hike to Dhudkunda or only visit Tsho-Rolpa Lake. One group suggested that if there was a lot of snow on the trail, they would turn back, while the other group was determined to push through no matter what. John and I found ourselves unsure, but we agreed that our priority should be to see and experience Tsho-Rolpa first!

After our lunch, we all set off for Tsho-Rolpa under the sunny skies. Once we passed the suspension bridge, our guide from the back caught up with us. He was the one we had chosen as our guide for Dhudkunda from Na village. We could easily get lost on the Dhudkunda trail if we tried to go alone or group. We needed to go with someone who knows the trail well. That's why we chose him, and he was the same man who invited us to stay in his tea house in the morning. Then, we entered one of the wide, flat, sloping alpine meadows, devoid of human settlements but a huge single rocks scattered in sight, with new-born clouds floating in the sunshine.

Directly on the trail, there stood the mountain, Mt. Chobuje, wholly unveiled, awe-inspiring in bulk and majesty, filling the entire view like a separate, new-born world, yet so fine and beautiful that it might well fire the dullest observer to desperate enthusiasm. As we made our way towards Tsho-Rolpa, we came across a suspension bridge, which served as the final bridge of the Rolwaling valley. At this point, the path forked. Taking the left would lead us to the Dhudkunda Trail, while the right would take us to Tsho-Rolpa. We chose the Tsho-Rolpa Trail; after all, that was the purpose of our entire trek! As the trail turned into a steep, winding path alongside the river, I found myself wearing two hats to shield against the gusts. Our guide advised me to remove one, so I complied, opening one of them. I didn’t know why! I thought it was the way to acclimatize to the surroundings. As I continued walking slowly, I began to feel a mild headache. Thankfully, I had water and some dry snacks to alleviate it. Despite the strong wind, we persisted along the steep trail, pausing occasionally to capture some photographs. We encountered some fellow trekkers who had just returned from Tsho-Rolpa; they mentioned that it was only a few meters further up. With anticipation mounting, we quickened our pace. Upon reaching the summit, the wind grew even fiercer, and my headache intensified. My vision dulled, and I felt fatigued. I couldn't help but wonder if leaving my hat on would have prevented the headache. Nevertheless, we reached our destination, overcoming all obstacles along the way!

We arrived at Tsho-Rolpa lake around 1:30 PM and took some time in silence. I sat near the lake and contemplated. Despite my headache, I felt content with the vibes of Tsho-Rolpa. Entering its vibration zone was worth it, soaking in all the positive energy from the lake and the surrounding Himalayan mountains was an experience of pure joy.

Tsho-Rolpa Lake is one of the youngest and wildest glacial lakes in the Himalayas. Despite its youth, it has already grown to a considerable size due to the exponential melting of glaciers, making it as vulnerable as it has ever been in history.

First of all, once we reached Tsho-Rolpa lake, all of us got busy doing things like burning incense sticks, meditating, sitting by the lake shore, capturing the lake and its surroundings with our eyes, etc. Our guide told us not to spend too much time at the lake as we had to make it to another lake as well. 

I sauntered along the rocky shore until I came to John, who was saying that the best view of Tsho-Rolpa could be seen in all its glory. We could see the frozen lake spread for miles around. We took pictures and videos of the lake as it was glorified for a moment before it was engulfed by newly born clouds. Then we were called by our guide to have some snacks in the newly made tea house near the lake before we headed to Dhudkunda. It was the only tea house in Tsho-Rolpa. There were no other tea houses. As I had a headache, I thought I could not make it. Instead of snacks, John and I took a cup of tea and refilled our water bottles. Once we had our tea, fellow trekkers decided to make it to Dhudkunda. Despite my headache, and knowing I might regret it later, I decided to continue with our group. After all, we had come a long way to make this trek happen. When would we have the opportunity to visit this place again? Now, there were ten fellow trekkers along with our guide and his friend, who would be making snacks for us once we reached Dhudkunda, walking along the trail with us.

We all got ready for another 2-hour walk to an elevation of 4850 m, where Dhudkunda is situated in all its complete wilderness. The trail follows a mountainous route characterized by rugged terrain varying in elevation, passing through alpine meadows and glacial meltwater channels. It involves ascending and descending along mountain paths, traversing rocky terrain. As we were walking along the alpine meadow, our guide showed us his passport and citizenship, which he kept in his backpack, and shared his life journey in the Himalayas. He said that he started working in the Himalayas at a young age. Although he did not have his guide permit, he seemed confident in his ability to guide on the Himalayan trails. Once we reached the glacial meltwater channel, also known as a glacial moraine, the path became uneven, littered with deposits of rocks and sediments ranging from small pebbles to huge rock boulders, making it difficult for us to navigate the trail. We followed the green trail marks, as instructed by our guide. As we were passing through the meltwater stream, I stumbled upon a small rock which I took and kept in my pocket as a souvenir. On the way, our guide wanted to exchange his backpack with mine as he thought I would have a physical problem ascending the rocky path characterized by boulders with a heavy load on my back. How kind-hearted our guide was! As the landscape was shrouded by heavy mist, we were unable to see the snow peak mountains around us. But the feeling of walking in a place like that was surreal. It reminded me of my solo Manaslu circuit trek. For six hours, I walked alone in the Larkye Pass covered with heavy snow; even the trail marker iron poles were buried in heavy snow. It was one of my greatest achievements and fondest memories as a hiker/trekker, perhaps even as a good mountaineer.

Once we reached the top of the mountain, it resembled a ridge where the trail to Dhudkunda was established. There, another fork in the road appeared, prompting our guide to use his ice axe to mark the trail indicating that we should descend down the mountain using that path. We took some rest and enjoyed the view from there. The sound of rockfall echoed around us, a high-pitched, sharp noise. The Himalayan mountains were veiled in heavy clouds, indicating that snowfall could occur at any moment. Moraines stretched into the distance, the only visible landmarks. The Himalayan gusts blew fiercely, perhaps the strongest wind we had encountered on our journey. From the top of the mountain, I observed down into the moraines and spotted one of the large holes. I wondered how it was formed as I saw the water flowing into it turn into ice. This added to our curiosity as we continued along the trail.

Around 4:30 PM, we arrived at Dhudkunda. It was a fantastic feeling to reach the spiritual lake. The lake was frozen as far as the eye could see. Upon reaching it, I circled the Buddhist Mani Arch three times and took a moment to appreciate the place, despite the headache. The lake appeared white, almost milky in color. I wondered if it had earned its name due to that characteristic. We decided not to linger at the lake due to the poor weather conditions. Instead, we quickly took pictures and videos of the frozen landscape. Walking on the frozen lake gave us an incredible feeling, as if we were walking on water. Then, we returned to the tea house near Dhudkunda, just a few meters away from the lake, and ordered noodles along with hot water. After enjoying our snacks, we hastened our pace and initiated the long journey back to Na village.

As the trail and the surrounding landscape were covered in heavy mist, we did not want to spend more time in the trail. While descending down the rocky mountains, I filled my pocket with leaves of Himalayan Junipers so that I could use them in my home as incense sticks. The aroma is so strong that it gives the Himalayan vibes in the room. Soon, we reached alpine meadows covered in the mist where we all gathered in front of a huge rock and prayed for a while. Our guide read some mantras of positive vibes and energy. Thanking our strenuous journey to the lakes, we turned back and looked towards the Tsho-Rolpa, Dhudkunda trails, we hastened our walk. It was a great way to say goodbye the lakes!

Around 7 o'clock in the late afternoon, we returned to the Na village. Once we arrived at our tea house, we all wanted to celebrate New Year's Eve. After finishing our cleaning and changing clothes, we gathered in the dining room and ordered our meal for the night. There, we had great conversations about how we managed to visit both lakes! Since there were other foreign trekkers present, we didn't want to speak too loudly. After they had their dinner and retired to their rooms, we enjoyed talking with each other. We planned that tomorrow, on New Year's Day, we would make it to the Chet-Chet no matter what! Once the discussion was settled, we had our meal. However, due to headache, I couldn't eat much. I ate what was on my plate, and I didn't ask for more. After dinner, we all gave money to our guide, who had done a great job guiding us through the Himalayan wilderness. We all went to sleep around 10:00 PM.

DAY 4

Tossing and turning, we couldn’t sleep well. Our brains weren't accustomed to sleeping at such high altitudes. 4000 meters isn’t usual for us. Around 5:30 AM, we woke up and packed our backpacks. After settling the bill and wishing everyone there, including our guide, a happy New Year, we set off for Beding, where we planned to take a tea break before continuing along the trail to Chet-Chet. We were unsure where we would stop for lunch.

John and I fell behind because we wanted to see the place one more time with our own eyes, a memory for a lifetime. We didn’t take many photos but relied on our eyes to capture the moment. Seeing with our own eyes, rather than through the lens of a camera, offers a more immersive and authentic experience and foster a deeper connection and understanding of the moment, creating memories that are rich and vivid. 

Along the way, we noticed that there was no snow on the trail, even though it had snowed the previous night. Around 8:00 AM, we arrived at the same tea house in Beding and ordered breakfast. Making phone calls to our homes, we felt relieved; the phone network didn’t work up in the Na village. We encountered the same old couple from Germany whom we had met in Simigaun and wished them a Happy New Year. After breakfast, we quickened our pace as we descended from Beding. We had a full day of walking ahead of us. We all headed down a few meters apart, knowing we would catch up at Surmuche for lunch. Looking back on the scenes left behind while going up last time, we walked down like never before. The pace was great, and we had to cover around 40 km that day to reach Chet-Chet; we walked down the trails. Taking a few breaks on the trail and having our snacks, we reached Kyalje around 12:30 PM, where we decided to have our lunch. We thought reaching Surmuche would be late for food, considering the distance to cover in that time.

After our lunch, we were ready for Chet-Chet. The food was awesome, especially the organic spinach. After walking for about an hour or so, we stumbled upon a spring pool where we decided to swim. John and I had previously planned to swim there. John dived into the pool first, followed by the three of us, while the rest of our fellow trekkers watched our swim from the suspension bridge located above the pool. It was an awe-inspiring experience to dive into a pool like that. It felt like a glorious ritual cleansing, washing away our physical pain and  negative vibes. However, the water was too cold to stay in for a long time. Refreshed, we continued down the trail, advising our trail friends to take a shorter path once we reached the suspension bridge between Surmuche and Simigaun. We would be skipping Simigaun and taking the Riku village trail instead.

Out of the blue, a local dog that we met in Kyalje while having our food followed us. We gave him meat, and that's why he followed us, we thought. He got ahead on the trail, as if he wanted to show us the way. Suddenly, it started to rain. We took some time to put on our raincoats at one of the rest stops. There was a man, too, with a 'Khukuri' strapped to his body, looking after his oxen in a shed. We noticed that he was disabled. We felt sorry for him, but we couldn't give anything except some snacks from a backpack, which I gave to him. I wondered how one could live there, in a shed with oxen and a fierce dog chained in front of it in the middle of the wild forest.

As it started to rain with thunder in the sky, we hurriedly walked on the trail, taking care with each step. We reached the suspension bridge around 4:30 PM. The same dog was waiting for us near the bridge. He was urging us to follow his trail that led straight to Simigaun, as we noticed from his tail wagging and low barking. Unfortunately, as we decided to skip the Simigaun trail, we crossed the suspension bridge and couldn’t follow the dog’s trail. As we were crossing the bridge, we had to say, "Go to your home," to the dog. We were unsure whether he understood us or not, but we left from there. As we crossed the bridge, a few of us were left behind. For them, we marked the trail with an arrow on the path so those who were left would know that we had taken that path. As we were walking along the Riku village trail, the rain got so heavy that we all got drenched. We had to take shelter at a rest stop for about half an hour. The lightning strikes were so bright that we could see them hitting the mountains. When the rain began to slow down, we continued down the mountain trail. After crossing the suspension bridge, John, I, and the rest of our group scattered along the trail, unaware of our exact location. It was late afternoon, still raining, and visibility was poor.

© Aayush Chhetri

One of our fellow trekkers got ahead on the trail. I tried to follow him but lost sight of him. I waited for a while on the trail for the others who were behind me. After some time, another trail friend appeared, and we walked together, discussing where John and the others might be. He assured me they were following behind. 

A few minutes later, we arrived at Chet-Chet where fellow trekker who had gone ahead was waiting. The rain worsened, and we grew worried about those still on the trail. John tried to call me, but the mobile network was unreliable. He made several attempts after losing track of the correct path. 

Eventually, they arrived, and we were relieved to see them despite the difficulties they faced. The tea house was crowded, so we looked for another place to stay, which was arranged by the lady tea house owner. We were impressed by the kindness of her! We managed to book four rooms.

After cleaning up and changing clothes, we gathered in the tea house's dining room to enjoy our last night of the trek, which coincided with New Year’s Day. We felt very content with our trek. We ordered dinner, and while it was being prepared, we enjoyed tea, hot water, snacks, and some of our fellow trail friends had drinks to celebrate the final day of our trek. 

As we chatted and had a good time, we asked the lady owner to book bus tickets to Kathmandu. She booked six tickets for us. After a while, our meal was served, marking our final meal on the trail. Even after dinner, we stayed in the dining room, knowing we might not see each other again after leaving Chet-Chet for Kathmandu. Eventually, some of us, including myself, went to sleep while others stayed up enjoying their drinks and conversations.

DAY 5

I woke up early at 5 in the morning and did my morning routine. As I was having my morning tea, John and  other fellow trail friends popped in. Once we finished our breakfast, we all waited for the bus to arrive. Around 6:15 AM, our bus to Kathmandu arrived. Coincidentally, it was the same bus we had taken last time to Chet-Chet for the trek. Since the bus was crowded with passengers and their belongings, we had to put our backpacks in the rear storage area. We also took the backpacks of other trail friends who were leaving for Kathmandu on their motorbikes. We decided to take their backpacks to Kathmandu where our four trail friends would meet us at our stop in Kathmandu to retrieve their backpacks. As we had formed a friendship, we thought this was something we could do for them.

Around 6:30 AM, six of us left for Kathmandu while our four trail friends stayed behind, coming on their motorbikes.

Abstract:

Setting out on a Himalayan trek through the Rolwaling Valley was a journey that transcended mere physical exploration; it was a profound odyssey of self-discovery, team-spirit, and connection with the majestic natural world. From the moment my friend John and I set foot on the snowy trails, we were enveloped in a world of breathtaking beauty and untamed wilderness.

Our trek began with a moment of uncertainty, as we deliberated whether to brave the snow-covered trails amidst the wintry weather. Seeking guidance from a wise tea house owner, we found reassurance in her words and made the bold decision to press forward. Little did we know that the choice would set the stage for an adventure filled with both exhilarating highs and daunting challenges.

As we trudged along the snowy path, each step illuminated by the occasional lightning strike, we were reminded of the raw power of nature and the fragility of our existence within it. Yet, within the swirling snowflakes and swirling mist, there was a sense of awe and wonder that stirred within us—a recognition of the sheer magnificence of the Himalayan landscape.

Our journey was punctuated by moments of serendipity and wonder, from encountering the elusive Danphe, Nepal's national bird, witnessing snow leopard's footprints to stumbling upon a lone tree cloaked in a blanket of snow. Each sighting was a tribute to the resplendent beauty of the natural world and the magic that awaited around every corner.

As we ventured deeper into the heart of the Rolwaling Valley, we found ourselves immersed in a tapestry of cultural richness and historical significance. From the ancient villages of Beding and Na, where we glimpsed centuries-old traditions and the enduring resilience of the Sherpa people, to the sacred sites consecrated by Guru Rinpoche himself, we felt a profound sense of reverence for the land and its inhabitants.

But it was not just the external landscape that captivated us—it was also the internal journey of self-discovery and personal growth that unfolded with each passing day. From the physical challenges of navigating treacherous topography to the moments of quiet contemplation by the shores of Tsho-Rolpa Lake, we found ourselves tested and transformed in ways we had never imagined.

Yet, amidst the trials and tribulations, there was also the unshakable bond of friendship that sustained us—a shared sense of purpose and adventure that united us as fellow travelers on the remarkable journey. Whether huddled around a fire in a cozy tea house or braving the elements together on the trail, we found strength in each other's presence and the knowledge that we were not alone in our quest.

As we descended back towards civilization, our hearts heavy with the bittersweet realization that our adventure was coming to an end, we carried with us memories that would last a lifetime. From the ethereal beauty of the snow-capped peaks to the warm embrace of the local villagers, each experience left an indelible mark on our souls, reminding us of the profound interconnectedness of all living things.

In the end, our trek through the Rolwaling Valley was not just a physical journey—it was a spiritual odyssey that touched the deepest recesses of our being. It was a tribute to the power of nature to inspire, challenge, and transform us, leaving us forever changed and infinitely grateful for the opportunity to explore the wonders of the Himalayas.