Latarambeshwor Mahadev Hike

With such grand displays as Nature is making here, how grand are her reservations, bestowed only upon those who devotedly seek them! Beneath the wild and lush mountains, the bucolic village is glowing with its folklore ID and sculpturing the mountains with desolate wilderness, how many shy wild creatures are at home beneath the grateful lights and shadows of the woods, rejoicing in their fullness of perfect life!

Yes, we are talking about Latarambeshwor Mahadev, located at Makawanpur district, neighboring district of Kathmandu valley which has become exclusive hiking destination among outdoor enthusiasts these days. On 17th June, 2022, friend and I successfully made it to the Latarambeshwor after a few days of preparation. As always, it all started with a phone call. Around 11 0' clock, my friend, Nirpesh made phone call to me and said that "Lets do it today, Latarambeshwor Hike!". And I said:"Its already 11:00 AM and we couldn't make it." He said again:"We can and I'll be there in your home at 11:30 AM". Then, I packed my backpack and waited for him. I did call back again and said that if there were any landslides, we would come back, OK!". Then we started our 42 km journey to the Baguwa Bridge, Makawanpur on bike. From Chapagaun, we headed to the Tikabhairab and filled our supplies with snacks and took Loknath Highway that connects Kathmandu valley from south. With no expectation, we got to the Tinpane Bhanjyang above which Nimbus clouds were already playing hide and seek with the sun. Then we took the steep road with precautions. My friend rode a bike and I looked for falling rocks from the mountains with an eagle eye. 

After 2 hours of riding a bike from home, we reached Baguwa (Bagmati) Bridge, crossing foothills of southern lalitpur, like Tinpane Bhanjyang, Bhattedanda, Chhapeli etc. Crossing the bridge and leaving the highway, we took a beaten road that goes to Latarambeshwor Mahadev (west). We parked our bike on the front yard of the tea house, near the Army Camp. 

Around 1:21 PM, we started our hike. I said to my friend that we were finally here....Lets do it! After a few minutes of walk, we came across with the fork in the road. We got confused that which way we should take! Then I walked few meters back and asked about the trail to school children who were playing outside their school. Without hesitation, they showed us the route to the Latarambeshwor Mahadev. As said by school children, we took the left one and walked uphill through the narrow path of the mountain. With so much lush green to see, we kept walking through the maize field until we reached the last house of the trail. We re-filled our water bottle from the tap and walked further up. Again, we came across with the dividing track. Then, I walked back and asked to the group of other hikers who were having their snacks before going up in the tea house. They said that they didn't know about the trail. Then a girl came out from the house and told me:"either way gets you to the top of the mountain". I said:"Okay! Thank you very much". 

Then we took the left one again which seemed less walk by by the hikers as we entered the tunnel of the wild forest. To keep an eye on, we did not waste our time taking pictures along the trail. At some point, we talked to our self that did we take the wrong way? However, we managed to get out of that tunnel and got to the main trail. I felt so exhausted that I wanted to throw even my clothes away. After getting to the main trail, we walked slowly further up. We couldn't explain how nature was in the LM mountains! 

We were stunned by the wild shades of green as we strolled uphill through the rugged bush forest, realizing Godful nature herself, is an Artist painting every tree with patch of mosses on its branches and ferns laid on the trunk, delighting the art of nature with wild bushes. The argument for fine wildness needs no explanation.

As we were walking relentlessly, we met another group of  hikers who were coming back after finishing their hike and asked that how long did you guys take to reach on the summit? They said:"Well, it depends how on fast you can pick up the pace! It took us 3 hrs to reach the top of the mountain". We said:"Okay! Thank you very much. Hope you guys walk slowly down the mountain". They said:" It's just few mins away and you guys may need another 30 mins or more in order to reach the summit". We said: "Awesome! Thank you very much".

With an excitement, we walked further up the mountain so as to reach the summit on time. Finally, we reached the top of the mountain at 2: 50 PM, a hiker's point where hikers from Kathmandu valley and Hetauda meet. It took us around 1 hr 20 mins from the bottom of the mountain. As soon as we got to the top, we were engulfed by the pocket of fog blocking exquisite 360 degree view with subtle shade of gray. Then, we took the way that leads to the Latarambeshwor Mahadev Temple, situated on the other side of the mountain. At that point, I realized that that path which our forefathers used to say, the hardest and most challenging part of the trail. It starts with an edge of the mountain from where we have to walk holding the horse grass plant to the other end of the mountain. Back in days, when there was no iron bars, it was so hard to pass the trail. Out of 10, 3 returns back due to its challenging path and unpredictable gusts. 

After a few mins of walk, we finally reached Latarambeshwor Temple, residing on the top of the mountain. We did our prayers and scout the surroundings to see the astonishing view that the mountain offers. West and north view is still wild and seems unexplored. We did wait for the weather to settle down in the mountain. With number of hikers these days, the mountain had become polluted with chunks of plastic bottles, wrappers, cans etc. all around. It was so sad to see people littering their trash on a religious place like that.  And we did not stay on the top and came few meters down in order to have our snacks. We even shared our snacks with local kids who made a long journey to the temple top to take the offerings, for instance, money and fruits which hikers had offered in the temple. Then we sat for a while so as to have peaceful and calm time, enjoying the view from the mountain. In the nick of time, things get magical in the mountains. You see mountains very clear and in a snap of finger, the view gets invisible with the mist. In the mean time, the speed of the wind is so much stronger. After spending few mins, around 40-45 mins on the top, finishing our snacks, we decided to stroll back as time was running out too. At 4:05 PM, we walked back to the place where we parked our bike, down the mountain. As always, half of the trail, we did trail run and instead of shortcut, we took the main trail continuously to reach down the mountain. We did not want to get lost in the tunnel of forest. We met few hikers along the way going up at that time. We told them to take pace in order to reach the top on time. Nobody goes up late in the afternoon. 

It took us almost 1 hr to reach the bottom of the mountain where we parked our bike. We wanted to have  tea in the nearby tea house. But, calculating our time, we missed it and left for home. Happily, we reached our home on time at 6:50 PM. 

The day was remarkable in so many positive ways that we finally made it to the Latarambeshwor Mahadev Temple although it is far away from the Kathmandu valley. As we are outsider by nature, we always want to spend time hiking mountainsides. We are so much obsessed with walk. The analog version of traveling is awe-inspiring. 

 

© NIRPESH SHARMA

Soloing Phulchoki

IN an unfathomed forest of Phulchoki, which is believed to be evolved in mesozoic era, I remained for more than 5 hrs, walking quietly up and down, photographing and climbing among the surrounding mountains covered with snow. Phulchoki furnishes an equally interesting example of wilderness wholly, or in part, by wide range of flora and fauna and in every direction, the landscape stretched out sublimely away in fresh wildness--- a manuscript written by the hand of Nature alone.

It all started with an obsession of walking. On a chilly morning of February 5, 2022, I woke up late and after my morning stuffs, I looked around from our terrace. I saw all the hills and mountains of the Kathmandu valley covered with snow. And I decided to hike Phulchoki, one of the care killing trails of the valley which stretches out 13 km from the base of the mountain. 

However, I already hiked this trail with my friend on last December, 2021 when first snowfall of the season hit the valley. With an urge to explore and experience the wilderness that the trail offers, I went on a solo hike.

Then, after my lunch at 11:15 AM, I walked out from my home (Chapagaun) to the Phulchoki Summit, which is about 20 km away that is equivalent to 12.42 miles from my home. As I had to walk back and forth, about 24.84 miles, I didn't waste my time here and there. After walking about 30 mins, I reached Taukhel, neighborhood of Chapagaun. Then, I took a bus that goes to Godawari in order to save 30 mins of my time. [If I walked from Taukhel to Godawari through Peace Mountain, it could take 30 mins or more]. However, I thought that I could use that amount of time to reach the summit on time.

It just took 3 mins to reach Godawari Bus park from Taukhel by bus. Then, I looked at time that it was 12:08 PM. As snowfall was so much that I saw so many people hustling at the bus park with zeal to enjoy in the snow. 

I realised that I had to walk another 13 km to reach the summit. When I reached Godawari, I already had mild headache and felt so much hungry that I took the fruit juice from the backpack and had a sip of it. Then, I took chocolate bite. And, I slowly walked uphill through the forest path, which is so wild and raw that we need guts to explore solo. 

The forest of Phulchoki is so magnificent that we define nature as we walk through the forest. Being one of the last remnants of sub tropical forest in Nepal, it's the most tranquil place of the valley where we find peace and color our heart.

Then, after walking 5 km of an entire 13 km trail, I saw flakes of snow on the road and I felt so much excited in a good way. Furthermore, I took a pace to walk uphill. I was afraid that my headache would be intense but after having chocolate, juice and water, it stopped my headache. 

As there were other hikers too, I didn't worry about the wild surroundings. I know that soloing this trail other times would be dangerous. We may encounter wild bears and boars.

As I didn't care about other hikers what they were doing on the trail, I focused on reaching the summit. Moreover, with so much snow, about 2-3 feet, the beaten track was so much slippery to walk. At that same time, it was challenging to walk and I didn't use any shortcut. We could lose stamina to reaching out the top of the mountain.

As I reached the higher elevation, the pocket of fog lingered the mountain. That fleeting moment which I was looking for, was remained for few minutes. Then, I indulged in solitude, finding a peace in silence. At that point of the trail, I didn't see anyone, just me and wild surroundings. It meant a lot to me in a good way. That was my moment of zen.

However, I got scared too and it was obvious. But, with so much determination, I reached the summit, after walking 3 hrs 30 minutes from the bottom of the mountain. The winding road of the Phulchoki is so much challenging, (Difficulty Rating-5).

Due to low visibility, I didn't spend much time on the summit. After my prayers at the temple, I walked back in search of a place where I could have my snacks. [On the summit, there is a teahouse which offers mainly tea and other snacks]. As there were other hikers having their tea and snacks, I didn't want to go there. I came a little bit down to have my snacks and tea which I took from home. 

Then after finishing my snacks, I walked slowly for a while in order to have few minutes on higher altitude. It was something like acclimatization of the body. Then, I did trail run up to 10 km. 3 km, I had to walk. When I was about to reach the bottom of the mountain, I had so much pain in my leg, downhill knee problem. Finally, I successfully came down the mountain. It was already 5:30 PM when I reached down the mountain, brother did make phone call to me and I said that "I am at Godawari waiting for bus and take me home from Taukhel". But he said; "You be there and I am coming to pick you up." It was such a huge relief to me. Otherwise, I was about to take a bus upto Taukhel and walked back for another 45 minutes to reach HOME.

Then I did wait for my brother at Godawari Bus park. He came to pick me up on his motorbike. At first, he scolded me not to hike Phulchoki alone......

I appreciated the way my brother told me. It's one of the dangerous places of the valley. Anything could happen in the forest. I, actually thought there would so many people on the trail like it used to be on last hike with my friend. Yes, there were so many people on the trail but, as I reached higher elevation, I came across with few people only. At some point, I thought I should go back. It was so scary when the fog engulfed the path.

When I reached home, I felt so much cold and I sat in front of fire for about an hour or two. Then, I filled my day's appetite with so much foods and had hot water with thyme seeds. It does take care of our lungs and keeps us away from cold. Next day, I was on full day rest. 

[This hike taught me a lesson that how hard it is to reach our goal in life! But with strong determination and dedication, we can do anything in life]. 

[When we stay close to the nature, we care our forest, our hills, our mountains with love]. 

Hike To The Phulchoki Summit

THERE is always something deeply exciting, not only in the wilderness of the forest in the mountains, which exert more or less influence over every mind, but in their varied wilderness as manifested by the change in season especially those of mountains in winter. The evergreen forest of the Phulchoki Mountain is indescribably impressive and sublime, but the native Himalayan high altitude oak trees seem to me the best interpreters of the mountain. They are mighty, ever in tune, singing and writing tree-music all their long century lives. Little, however, of these noble trees and their music will you see or hear in the strictly higher elevation of the mountain (above 2650 m).

© Nirpesh Sharma

I had long been looking from the city that never sleeps and at last, all draw-backs overcome, a friend of mine and I set forth on the second last day of December, 2021, on a 10 mile walk (Chapagaun-Phulchoki Summit) to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level.

As it rained so heavily in the valley on last week of December, 2021, it snowed in the mountains(Phulchoki, Dhunche, Chandragiri, Radar Station, Shivapuri, etc) and a good friend of mine called me on a phone requesting to hike Phulchoki, highest point on the rim of the Kathmandu valley. As I am so much obsessed with walking, I said "yes" to his request.

Early in the morning on December 30, we confirmed our hike again. Then, we set our journey after lunch. However, to manage our time, we rode our bike till 6 km of an entire 13 km trial (Godawari-Phulchoki). Moreover, we parked our bike on the side of the beaten road and walked uphill at 12:55 pm, taking one of the longest forest baths so far. Because of first snowfall of the season, the trail was packed with so many hikers, both young and old. Who didn’t want to play with snow!

       

However, we didn’t go to play with the snow. In fact, we went to experience the snowy trial and to reach the top of the summit on time. As we walked for few mins, we started seeing snow all around. The trial was fully covered with snow and the walk had become more challenging. But with strong determination, we walked non-stop using shortcuts and main trail. However, shortcuts were so much difficult to walk as they were so much slippery.

To be honest, the trail is endlessly wild. The  greatest  number of  tree species  was  found  in  the  low  altitude  (1600  m), followed  by  intermediate  altitude  (1950  m).The  highest  altitude  (above 2650 m)  contained  only  one distinct  tree  species (Oak). The low altitude has higher species diversity and dominated  by  Castonopsis indica which has common name called chinquapin or chinkapin from Fagaceae family, Quercus  glauca, a ring cupped oak, Myrica  esculenta, box berry and  myrsine  capitellate, common name not known yet, etc. The intermediate altitude has  average species diversity and dominated  by Rhododendron arboretum, Castanopsis tribuloides and Quercus incana (oak). The forest of the higher altitude is entirely dominated  by  Quercus  semicarpifolia,  a  high  altitude  Oak.

Then, the trail was engulfed by the fog, and the walk had become even more interesting. In that moment, we were seeing through the eyes of a child. It reminded me one of my hikes that I did where I had to walk alone from the top of the mountain to the bottom when the entire trail was covered with day time fog. It was one of my scariest moments of my life.

With so much rain and snow, we saw many fallen tree branches on the trail blocking our way. It was so much intriguing to see the snow resting on the tree branches. Without wasting our time, we walked to the top of the mountain steping on the snow. The thickness of the snow was just about 2-3 inches which was less than we previously expected. As we walked up the mountain through winding road, the scenery had changed.

Everything (shrubs, trees, trail) was covered with snow. We now saw Himalayan oak trees. And it meant that we had hit the higher elevation of the mountain. I was so impressed to see those oak trees holding snow on their branches and leaves. It was one of my favorite moments. Then for the last time, we took the longest shortcut trail in order to manage our time. And I had to walk very slowly because; I was having heavy backpack filled with hot water, tea, normal water and snacks. When I looked up the mountain, my friend had gone too far otherwise I could pass the backpack. When, I reached the main trail, I felt so much exhausted and tired that I wanted to throw my backpack. It was one of the difficult steep shortcuts. As we burnt so many calories, we took a chocolate bites and water and felt heavenly. You could have voracious appetite in the mountains. Then, with normal pace, we walked again seeing everything around us. Then, we reached an ancient pond of the Phulchoki covered with snow . After walking another 2 km from the pond, we reached the summit. Finally, we registered our names to the top of the valley, 2700 m above from the sea level. However, my friend had already been here several times with his friends in the past years. We spent just few mins on the summit, did prayers at Phulchoki Temple which is dedicated to Phulchoki Bhawani and attracts many people all around the year. An emperor's picturesque Panaromic view from the top of the Phulchoki is so much lofty as different Himalayan ranges like Annapurna, Manaslu, Himalchuli, Ganesh, Langtang, Rolwaling, and Gaurishankar can be seen. Wish I could stay here all my life!

After spending few mins on the summit where other hikers were having good times singing and dancing with Nepali retro folk rock songs like "हिउँ पर्यो फुरुरु हिमाली भेगैमा", हिमाल चुचुरे, सुन्दर शान्त नेपाल, etc., we headed back down as we felt cold breeze. Then we took our snacks and tea on the side of the snowy road. After filling up our empty stomach, we walked down taking the main trail. We didn't prefer to walk the shortcuts. We even did trail run on a snowy track. It was one of the best things which we did. We more often do trail run on our hike. For more than 7 Kms, we did trail run without missing the views that the mountain offers. Then, we reached the point where we parked our bike and left for home. While coming down the mountain, we witnessed the forest illuminating with evening light, golden light.

© Nirpesh Sharma

We were so happy with our hike that we actually nailed it in just 5 hrs. It was perfect end of 2021. We suggest that as Phulchoki hike is one of the best acclimatization hikes, you should hike this mountain before trekking to Himalayan regions of Nepal.